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Get off my LAWN! "Grumpy Old Farts"

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Does anyone know of a place to send my Acoustic 370 head to get a recover/tolex®️?
I could probably do it myself, but want I want to look nice and not do the learning curve thing.
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I believe you can find the answer to that over in the amps section , this is now the miscellaneous "gof" section....this is the only place I can go where I don't have to hear class D verses Tube sound, I'm begging we don't digress to that conversation:):)
 
Does anyone know of a place to send my Acoustic 370 head to get a recover/tolex®️?
I could probably do it myself, but want I want to look nice and not do the learning curve thing.
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I would think any high end auto trim/upholstery shop could handle the job, especially one that does custom sound system installs and builds sub-woofer cabs and such. That's all all I got.
 
Ya in real simple terms what’s up with that? Sincere question. I’ve been looking at your thread, but I’m sorry I just don’t get it. I’ve been playing so long without one...
Amps put out 20hz to 20k Hz, cabs, not so much.

With an HPF, you EQ out the low frequencies the cab can't reproduce or above that, frequencies causing boomyness by bad venue acoustics or to adjust your tone to sit in your band's mix better.

I thought I didn't need one too. But, hey, if you're fine without one on, good onya bro.:thumbsup:
 
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Does anyone know of a place to send my Acoustic 370 head to get a recover/tolex®️?
I could probably do it myself, but want I want to look nice and not do the learning curve thing.
View attachment 3155771

It’s a big job to do it well. Most of the work is in stripping the old vinyl and doing all the wood prep. You can save on the cost if you do this part yourself. The better the wood prep, the better the final job. On the plus side, applying the new vinyl is relatively easy on the 370 cab. There are no difficult cuts and the metal corners cover a lot of sins. You can prepare that head and take it to an upholsterer, as was recommended, just for the final step.

How easy it is to remove the vinyl depends on the type of glue that was used to apply it. If you are lucky, carefully tugging at the vinyl may release it. With a water soluble adhesive, a warm damp cloth can help. An iron over a damp cotton cloth is an oldtimers trick to release the vinyl. Every adhesive will release with enough heat but too much heat can damage the wood and the wood joints. The goal is to remove the covering with minimal damage to the wood.

If the adhesive used was non water based contact cement, the yellow stuff, it is more difficult to release. Sometimes you need to use solvents or mechanical action such as a belt sander.

I normally replace rusted hardware. You can try polishing the original parts, including the nails and see. If it is stainless, you can bring them back with some polishing compounds. If it is chromed and rusted, you can get them re-chromed. It depends if you are fussy about keeping it all original or not.

It is more cost effective in terms of time to replace these parts if you can find them. The metal corners and nails look close to what Ampeg used, maybe they would work. Your parts would have to have the same roundover. You can buy the Ampeg vintage style corners and nails from fliptops.net. They have them custom made.

Just to see what is involved in stripping a cab, check this SB-12 cabinet restoration photo essay: SB-12 Cabinet Restoration - part 1 | TalkBass.com. A lot of work.
 
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Some of my amps have casters, some have dollies. When driving them around, I realized that I didn’t have the temporary mirrors adjusted properly.

I tried this technique (Link Removed) and it worked like a charm. Seems that the technique for adjusting vehicle mirrors applies equally well amp caravans.

You see traffic in the rear view mirror, as it transitions out of sight it appears in the driver’s side mirror. Absolutely no blind spot.

I assume that this works equally well with the lawn tractors and golf carts that old folks drive.
 
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I learned that setup from Tom & Ray a couple decades ago. :thumbsup:

When I got my license, things were considerably more relaxed than they are today. Not many people took driving classes, even at school. My dad taught me, I taught my wife to drive.

When I bought my first motorcycle, all you needed was a car driver’s license, they added the motorcycle endorsement but there wasn’t a test. There are a lot more rules and regulations for licensing today.

Back then, you went to the license office, stood in line (no appointments), wrote an exam, and a guy had you drive him around the neighborhood and parallel park. The license was typed out with your name and address, no photo ID.

I found it interesting that the AAA has a web site (seriordriving.aaa.com) dedicated to older drivers.

They seem to indicate that you can teach an old dog new tricks. :laugh:

I did take formal music instruction though. Every Saturday morning. An indication as to where my priorities were.
 
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