Gibson Grabber/Ripper/G-3 club

[Engle]

How did you get the lacquer back? I have a G3 which has the same issue.

I've been hand polishing it with Mothers Step Carnuba wax and Brasso. You can see where I haven't got to it behind the bridge.
I got some 3" polishing pads so I'll try those out (every so gently) after the fretwork.

And I just found a pair of Aria Ripper copy pickups on eBay
I was planning on Tbird pickups to start, but these were only $35 USD each:

Apparently they are pretty good copies of the Bill Lawrence design. If they are as close to the original as the pickups in my ElDegas Ric copy are to a real 4003, I'll be happy with them!
Now I'm thinking I may need to get a rotary switch and...what else do I need to replicate the original wiring?

 

[ThaCoast]

I've been hand polishing it with Mothers Step Carnuba wax and Brasso. You can see where I haven't got to it behind the bridge.
I got some 3" polishing pads so I'll try those out (every so gently) after the fretwork.

And I just found a pair of Aria Ripper copy pickups on eBay
I was planning on Tbird pickups to start, but these were only $35 USD each:
View attachment 5469308

Apparently they are pretty good copies of the Bill Lawrence design. If they are as close to the original as the pickups in my ElDegas Ric copy are to a real 4003, I'll be happy with them!
Now I'm thinking I may need to get a rotary switch and...what else do I need to replicate the original wiring?

Good score! Replicating the original wiring:

- A choke inductor. I know the Bill & Becky website have it. I've used the Kent armstrong version (as it was in a local music shop at the time). For the Mid range control.

- 4 position, 3 pole rotary switch. In my own build, i think my rotary is a 4 position 4 pole. But my wiring is different as are the pickups (Wilde L90 4H - Both full hum series, both full parallel, both split Neck north/bridge south in series, both split Neck south/bridge north parallel).

 

[Engle]

Good score! Replicating the original wiring:

- A choke inductor. I know the Bill & Becky website have it. I've used the Kent armstrong version (as it was in a local music shop at the time). For the Mid range control.

- 4 position, 3 pole rotary switch. In my own build, i think my rotary is a 4 position 4 pole. But my wiring is different as are the pickups (Wilde L90 4H - Both full hum series, both full parallel, both split Neck north/bridge south in series, both split Neck south/bridge north parallel).

This one?
Filter
I thought the one in the Ripper was 1.5 H

 

[ThaCoast]

This one?
Filter
I thought the one in the Ripper was 1.5 H

I've no experience with the Bill & Becky versions (they have the guitar Q filter 1.8H, or bass 3H). The kent armstrong, if you can find it, is 1.5H.

 

[Engle]

I've no experience with the Bill & Becky versions (they have the guitar Q filter 1.8H, or bass 3H). The kent armstrong, if you can find it, is 1.5H.

I've found a transformer with a 1.5H primary winding, so I might just order a few of those. Shipping is more than the part

 

[ThaCoast]

I've found a transformer with a 1.5H primary winding, so I might just order a few of those. Shipping is more than the part

Youll need a bigger belt & extension wires to have it work

 

[Engle]

Youll need a bigger belt & extension wires to have it work

They are small enough, but I did another search on eBay and found these:
5 Dale TJ3-2U-1500 High μH Current Inductors Toroid Choke EMI Filters Amplifier | eBay
1500 microH = 1.5H. I could put two together to get 3H.
The guy selling the pickups is also selling the original Japanese wiring harness, but I would rather build one with new parts.

 

[ctmullins]

Just use the Wilde one. Guitar or bass, either will work, with different tones obviously.

 

[ThaCoast]

Just use the Wilde one. Guitar or bass, either will work, with different tones obviously.

They are small enough, but I did another search on eBay and found these:
5 Dale TJ3-2U-1500 High μH Current Inductors Toroid Choke EMI Filters Amplifier | eBay
1500 microH = 1.5H. I could put two together to get 3H.
The guy selling the pickups is also selling the original Japanese wiring harness, but I would rather build one with new parts.

If you want to stay closer to the original, go for the 1.8H Wilde. If not go 3h.

Or Curtis Novak also has a choke filter EB-Choke

 

[Engle]

If you want to stay closer to the original, go for the 1.8H Wilde. If not go 3h.

Or Curtis Novak also has a choke filter EB-Choke

Thanks! Isn't the original 1.5H?

 

[ThaCoast]

Thanks! Isn't the original 1.5H?

Yes it is. Kent armstrong's version was 1.5h (which is what ive got).

 

[Engle]

Yes it is. Kent armstrong's version was 1.5h (which is what ive got).

Thanks. I'm going to order those 1.5H chokes and go by an electronics store for the 3P4T rotary switch, pots and capacitors next week.

 

[bassbrad]

I've been hand polishing it with Mothers Step Carnuba wax and Brasso. You can see where I haven't got to it behind the bridge.
I got some 3" polishing pads so I'll try those out (every so gently) after the fretwork.

And I just found a pair of Aria Ripper copy pickups on eBay
I was planning on Tbird pickups to start, but these were only $35 USD each:
View attachment 5469308

Apparently they are pretty good copies of the Bill Lawrence design. If they are as close to the original as the pickups in my ElDegas Ric copy are to a real 4003, I'll be happy with them!
Now I'm thinking I may need to get a rotary switch and...what else do I need to replicate the original wiring?

I had one of those Aria basses and foolishly traded it away after getting a Gibson Ripper that later went for an RD Artist. The Aria played & sounded better than the Ripper but the brand name had more panache. That Aria is one of those lost along the way that I would like to find again.

 

[Engle]

I had one of those Aria basses and foolishly traded it away after getting a Gibson Ripper that later went for an RD Artist. The Aria played & sounded better than the Ripper but the brand name had more panache. That Aria is one of those lost along the way that I would like to find again.

Good to know the Aria pickups are decent. During that era of Japanese manufacturing, they copied almost every detail very closely.
I have had two gigs where a Ric owner has complimented me on the tone of my ElDegas 4003, not noticing it wasn't the real thing.

 

[Engle]

Just use the Wilde one. Guitar or bass, either will work, with different tones obviously.

Yeah, but if I build my own, I can try different values of the inductor and cap.

 

[B0W]

Finally after years of trading, buying, selling i have my complete Grabber family and couldn't be happier.
1974 satin Grabber (alder-3570g)
1975 gloss Ripper (alder-3860g)
1976 tobacco burst G3 (alder-3760g)
1977 gloss G3 (maple-4620g)
Besides the burst G3 all are completly original and has all covers and cases. All their necks are straight, and have low action.
Amazing basses!!

 

[ThaCoast]

^^^The Grabber family of mine:
- 70's era Maya copy; All maple (body, neck & fretboard), 3 point bridge w/strung through option. I replaced its original keys with some unbranded 3d clover types, cut a new nut from bone replacing its plastic one, & upgraded the output jack to switchcraft. everything else is original, pickup sounds nice & fat (when compared to the real deal), & is also the heaviest of the bunch. Snagged this in late 2019 for 375$ CAD w/original case.

- 1975 Gibson Grabber in wine red: Alder body, maple/maple neck/fretboard, all original hardware/plastics. Had to fix the broken truss rod with the stewmac TR rescue tool, replaced its worn down frets with some .55 x .110 nickel fretwire. Cut a new bone nut, upgraded the output to a switchcraft, & gave it an overall good clean. It's a beast, lots of bite, growl, & bit more midrange. THE classic KISS sound of the early days. Got this for a stupid deal, w/its original purple lined hardcase (Its exterior pretty worn & torn), for 200$ CAD. Also replaced the slotted saddle height posts with shorter allen key black ones. Wish i could find a replacement bridge cover, for originality. Alas.

- My first ground up build, based on the Grabber, with a few alterations: Side mounted tube jack, EB-0 type pickup, 1.5" thick body (vs 1.25" of original), maple neck w/rosewood board, 21 frets, Currently sports some hipshot ultralite 1/2" chrome keys, schaller 3d roller bridge. painted emerald green with added glitter flakes. I've sprayed the neck with some amber tint give it that aged look & its pretty nice. I'm going to replace its pickup with some mini bucker type (the mudbucker really is "mud") simply want to have some clarity with this bass as i do with the others. The mudbucker will be used on some other project of mine.

 

[Engle]

It’s been too hot to work in the garage, and I picked the GB350s this morning, so I finished the soldering (MIJ harness with new rotary switch) and strung it up with Ken Smith Rockmasters.
So far the headstock is holding!
It looks like an epoxy repair, so I may have to spline it. I’m going to play it a bit before doing the finish repair.

Off to the garage to find some strap buttons

 

[ctmullins]

Nice. GB350s are fantastic.

 

[Engle]

View attachment 6972293
^^^The Grabber family of mine:
- 70's era Maya copy; All maple (body, neck & fretboard), 3 point bridge w/strung through option. I replaced its original keys with some unbranded 3d clover types, cut a new nut from bone replacing its plastic one, & upgraded the output jack to switchcraft. everything else is original, pickup sounds nice & fat (when compared to the real deal), & is also the heaviest of the bunch. Snagged this in late 2019 for 375$ CAD w/original case.

- 1975 Gibson Grabber in wine red: Alder body, maple/maple neck/fretboard, all original hardware/plastics. Had to fix the broken truss rod with the stewmac TR rescue tool, replaced its worn down frets with some .55 x .110 nickel fretwire. Cut a new bone nut, upgraded the output to a switchcraft, & gave it an overall good clean. It's a beast, lots of bite, growl, & bit more midrange. THE classic KISS sound of the early days. Got this for a stupid deal, w/its original purple lined hardcase (Its exterior pretty worn & torn), for 200$ CAD. Also replaced the slotted saddle height posts with shorter allen key black ones. Wish i could find a replacement bridge cover, for originality. Alas.

- My first ground up build, based on the Grabber, with a few alterations: Side mounted tube jack, EB-0 type pickup, 1.5" thick body (vs 1.25" of original), maple neck w/rosewood board, 21 frets, Currently sports some hipshot ultralite 1/2" chrome keys, schaller 3d roller bridge. painted emerald green with added glitter flakes. I've sprayed the neck with some amber tint give it that aged look & its pretty nice. I'm going to replace its pickup with some mini bucker type (the mudbucker really is "mud") simply want to have some clarity with this bass as i do with the others. The mudbucker will be used on some other project of mine.

Those are pretty sweet!