Found a Hohner Jack 5 headless (black) locally but...jeez louise...the seller is asking like $900. That's not even in negotiating territory.
Riis
Riis
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Headless Club???
- Thread starter Headless Llama
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There's a 4 in a store near me asking the equivalent of $US1300.
Hohner The Jack Bass Headless Maple Body Adjustable Per-Amp NOS slight marks ... | eBay
I would be patient. These are not Steinberger L2s... One person probably jacked (no pun intended) up their price online and every one else thought that meant that the bass should sell for that much so they followed suit.
I was thinking more along ~$500 tops. $900 will get me aimed into new Ibanez headless range.
Riis
Me neither, I have always loved the design of Washbun's basses from the 80's, I've owned a B-20 in the past and it had horrible neck dive issues. This seems like the best of both worlds.
I haven't received it yet but I'm excited to say that tracking shows that it is to arrive today!
Yes, NBD thread with better pics soon.
It's here! I'm excited to say that it is in really good condition, a few dings here and there and a couple of high frets seem to be the only issues nothing that a good set up won't take care of. It is exactly what I was hoping for... A B-20 that actually balances! I also own a headless Washburn Bantam bass (project) as well as another oddity a Washurn Force 40 headless bass but this is by far my favorite!
Oddly the bass isn't black as the standard BBR (black paint, black hardware, red trim) scheme, instead the finish is a very odd olive green metallic. Hard to get the actual color in a picture but here it is...
I'll post a NBD thread after I get it set up.
Oddly the bass isn't black as the standard BBR (black paint, black hardware, red trim) scheme, instead the finish is a very odd olive green metallic. Hard to get the actual color in a picture but here it is...
I'll post a NBD thread after I get it set up.
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So you headless owners that don't use a double-ball system... Is there a "safe" procedural way to cut strings to length?
I'm constructing a 27" headless so I don't think there will be many, if any strings the appropriate length where the usable portion would be barely over 27" and I could clamp on the silks.
I know in some cases you can bend the string and then cut the excess beyond the bend, but I didn't know if that is the best/only option...
I'm constructing a 27" headless so I don't think there will be many, if any strings the appropriate length where the usable portion would be barely over 27" and I could clamp on the silks.
I know in some cases you can bend the string and then cut the excess beyond the bend, but I didn't know if that is the best/only option...
Interesting question. I'm not sure. On the two headlesses I have that don't use the double ball system - one using the NS-Design system and one using a Nova in both cases I just cut the strings after I install them, since the excess protrudes out so it's easy to just clip them afterwards.
If you mean cutting on the metal not on the silks I just bend the string 90 degrees where I want to cut and then clip it off. Never had any issues myself. Not sure if there's a better way.
I'll be using Nova as well so thats a good comp. Thanks!
Just hoping I can fit a full gauge E through the channel in the headpiece... I haven't even looked, lol
I have built a couple of extra short scale headless (a 25 1/2" and 27 5/8"), I'm 90% sure that these strings are long enough...
Ernie Ball 9 string guitar set.
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The lower four strings are: 105/80/64/46. They sound good too.
Not bad for under $20!
Just eyeballing mine it actually looks like it'll fit (NYXL 45 - 100s).
Okay, I've been putting off deciding how to shape the headstock on this paddle but if I'm going to get the bridge aligned/seated, I need to anchor strings sooooo here's my thing:
I *think* I want to mount the head piece as close to the nut as possible (like literally flush to it w/o pushing up against it) and extend the truss channel under it so that I can still adjust, but it would take a long allen key:
Are there drawbacks to this? It will probably be a pretty steep break angle... but I would be able to cut away most of the paddle.
Or would it be better to mount further back so the truss is accessible in front?
It seems like most designs go for the first approach, but I figured I'd check before drilling holes...
Thanks!
I *think* I want to mount the head piece as close to the nut as possible (like literally flush to it w/o pushing up against it) and extend the truss channel under it so that I can still adjust, but it would take a long allen key:
Are there drawbacks to this? It will probably be a pretty steep break angle... but I would be able to cut away most of the paddle.
Or would it be better to mount further back so the truss is accessible in front?
It seems like most designs go for the first approach, but I figured I'd check before drilling holes...
Thanks!
There's a Luthier's Forum here where you'd be best to start a thread and ask for expert help. There's a lot of knowledge and experience there.
Luthier's Corner | TalkBass.com
