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HELP ME!!! Rat Fur Removal Advice Needed

#61
Just playing devils advocate here... Do not use any heat while using solvents. Heat will re-liquify that glue that you're working with, but it'll only allow you very brief moments to attempt to "scrape off" large deposits. So, even if that works, you'll still need to scrub with acetone to clean up.

There are many stages to your new project.

Also... bear in mind, that while many of the solvents listed will work, most all could also have a negative effect on the projects later phases!!!

For instance, kerosene and diesel fuel remove glue better that anything, but since they evaporate very slowly, they'll also impregnate the wood and loosen up all of its structural glue, as well as render any future gluing operation useless, because when they do evaporate, they leave oil behind!
 
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#63
Solvents have to be used very carefully. If the solvent penetrates far enough into plywood, it can ripple the top. Worst case it can delaminate the wood.

Then there’s the toxic risks. Acetone and othe volitile solvents will seeps right into your skin and gets into you blood stream. Vapors are absorbed into your lungs. Not all gloves are effective against solvents. Nasty stuff.

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#65
I'm definitely not going to strip my epifani 410 after reading this thread. I really don't like ratfur, but OP's struggle is all too real for me to go down this road.

20180424_112358.jpg
 
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#66
sigterm said:
I'm definitely not going to strip my epifani 410 after reading this thread. I really don't like ratfur, but OP's struggle is all too real for me to go down this road.

View attachment 3008807
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I didn't like rat fur either, until I read another thread on stripping rat fur. Now I love rat fur. Less rats in the cellar, and I don't have to go through all this :D
 
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#67
Oh, yeah....... Puh-leeeeeeze don't utilize a heat gun after using acetone or other solvents. I know.....I'm being Captain Obvious. Also, if using acetone especially........ don't let it get on your skin, unless you would like to elevate your liver function. Bad stuff for your body.
 
#69
Looks like really low quality covering...
Good carpeting comes off easier. it has some backing to it. But it also looks better longer, so it doesn't need replacing as much as just some carpet maintenance, like a good cleaning, and a shave.

Whatever you do it's going to be unhealthy. The time and effort you take may be better spent elsewhere. Scrap it. Sell it as is, someone with the tools and skills to fix it, and they will probably buy it and give you what it's worth now.
Take the money, buy a new cab, avoid carpet and tolex - unless you buy high quality stuff and have a skilled craftperson put it on.
 
#70
tr4252 said:
If the glue gums up your sander (because of the heat generated by the friction), then maybe it's a hot melt glue. Some times in the past, I've used a heat gun in conjunction with duct tape; the tackier the better, to remove stuff like what you have on your cabinet. I'd warm up the surface, press on a length of tape, and peel it off before the thing gets a chance to cool. Worked good on contact adhesives, not sure it would be much good with all that hair, but what have you got to lose? Good luck!

Tom
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don't women do that stuff?
 
#71
Professional grade rat fur that is used in pro audio PA applications is sold under the name Ozite. Back alley rat fur does not hold up so well, it is usually thinner.

The problem when removing these products is the adhesive. Some companies apply the adhesive just along the edges, others glue it everywhere. The adhesive can be water soluble which softens easily with water, or it can be a thick gummy mess like is seen in this case. It really depends on who made the cabinet. Some cabinets are designed to be repaired/recovered.

In the worst cases, a belt sander with the coarest grit paper works the best. You have to be careful so as to not overdo it.

One thing that I always try when stripping this type of material or tolex is a hot cloths iron over a damp cotton cloth. Clean diapers work well. Heat will soften any adhesive. Determining how much heat to use is the hard part.
 
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#72
I like the fire suggestion. Not from an efficacy standpoint, but because it'd likely generate the most entertaining "after" photos.

My serious suggestion is a belt sander, a bunch of belts (they will load up; you'll need to changer them), and persistence. That will work, it's just a matter of when, not if. Do one side. Take a break (you may need one). Do the next. Take a break...etc.
 
#73
Just gotta keep scraping is the best solution I came up with when I was refinishing a cab years ago. I second the roll on bed liner stuff though, touch and looks good. Helps against scratches and other cosmetic damages too. Usually one coat maybe two is enough.
 
#74
Been there, done that, got the T shirt. I peeled Ozite off a small PA (4 subs and 2 top boxes) many years ago. Fortunately whoever covered it used the heavier backed Ozite so it didn’t leave as much fuzz behind. I’m kinda disappointed that Epi would use the cheap Ozite but that doesn’t really matter now.

Here was my process. Use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive. Peel as much carpet as possible. Go back over the cab with the heat gun and a paint scraper or heavy putty knife to remove as much adhesive as possible. Go back over the cab with Acetone, scraper or putty knife and heavy Scotch Brite pads. Definitely do this outside! Nitrile gloves, safety glasses and a good quality respirator are a must! Let the cab dry a few days, then check for any remaining adhesive. If you find any tackiness go back with the Acetone again. If there’s no tackiness, sand out the cab with a belt sander and 80/120 grit. Keep the sander moving to avoid gouges. Do any necessary repairs with Bondo. Then you’re ready to re-cover your cab.

Good luck!
 
#77
Basically yes the hard part is removing the glue. All been covered

Soften with high heat and scrap and scrap

Acetone can soften as well n scrap scrap.

Once you remove most the glue then deal with sanding. They still clog just not as much.

Heavy stripers will absorb into the wood and break down the plywood.
 
#79
I no longer own anything with rat fur. If a cab has rat fur no matter how good it automatically will no tbe purchased by me. I de-furred a pa set up double 15 towers and a 18 sub x2. It was not fun. I did as much as I could and then used paint stripper and sand paper. I then used truck liner which in and of itself let off bad fumes for another week. Those cabs are long gone but I wish you luck. It is very doable and you will love the final results.
 

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