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Hiwatt 100W Custom Slave with a Sansamp BDDI?
- Thread starter BassMonstrum
- Start date
Just buy it. if you don´t like it, sell it to me. .but you´ll have to wait about a year.. I have to get the money. I need exactaly one of those.
I'm now the happy owner of this HIWATT head. So glad, of course !
I played half an hour and found it really good. So low ! I can't wait to try it at the next rehearsal of my band !
I played half an hour and found it really good. So low ! I can't wait to try it at the next rehearsal of my band !
Oh.. WAIT WAIT ! Did you know you MUST hook up TWO CABS ?
Read this, which you can find it on Mark Huss site (Mark´s some kind of Hiwatts guru)
This instructtions work for the DR 201, but i guess that you have to do the same wit the STA 200.
Q. What's the correct way to connect speakers to the four output jacks on the DR201 and DR405?
A. This is a simple question that does not have a simple answer!
Some of the earliest DR201 models simply had all four output jacks connected in parallel, so there's no mystery.
Next, DR201 models with KT88s had two pairs of DR103-style jack connections in parallel. The intention of this connection was to enforce the use of at least two cabinets. In this case, you need to plug one speaker into one of the two leftmost jacks, and another speaker into one of the two rightmost jacks.
If you want to use one high-power cabinet (and get around this issue), you need to insert an unattached 1/4" plug into the pair of output jacks you're not using to open the shorting jack connection.
The later (6xEL34) 201s and the 405s used a more complicated switching setup. The four jacks are separated into two pairs, the two closest to the selector and the two further away. These two pairs of jacks are internally connected in series with each other. This provides a dizzying array of hookup options, and will allow for up to sixteen(!) normal Hiwatt 16 ohm cabinets to be safely connected. We'll show just one or two of the many hookup options below for each "cabinet collection."
Note that the only numbers of cabinets that will provide a balanced impedance are one, two, four, eight, or sixteen. Three cabs can be connected, but the impedance (and distribution of output power) will be somewhat mismatched.
I've arbitrarily numbered the jacks 1 to 4, with 1 being the jack closet to the impedance selector.
For one cab, plug into any jack (1, 2, 3, or 4), impedance switch = 16 ohms.
For two cabs, either
Plug one cab into each jack of a single pair, i.e., either use 1&2 or 3&4.
Plug one cab into any jack (1, 2, 3, or 4), and connect the second cab directly to the first cab
Impedance switch = 8 ohms
For four cabs plug one cab into each jack, impedance switch = 16 ohms.
For eight cabs plug one cab into each jack, plug one additional cabinet into each of the first four, impedance switch = 8 ohms.
Or just ask Mark Huss about this. http://mhuss.com/Hiwatt/index.html
Read this, which you can find it on Mark Huss site (Mark´s some kind of Hiwatts guru)
This instructtions work for the DR 201, but i guess that you have to do the same wit the STA 200.
Q. What's the correct way to connect speakers to the four output jacks on the DR201 and DR405?
A. This is a simple question that does not have a simple answer!
Some of the earliest DR201 models simply had all four output jacks connected in parallel, so there's no mystery.
Next, DR201 models with KT88s had two pairs of DR103-style jack connections in parallel. The intention of this connection was to enforce the use of at least two cabinets. In this case, you need to plug one speaker into one of the two leftmost jacks, and another speaker into one of the two rightmost jacks.
If you want to use one high-power cabinet (and get around this issue), you need to insert an unattached 1/4" plug into the pair of output jacks you're not using to open the shorting jack connection.
The later (6xEL34) 201s and the 405s used a more complicated switching setup. The four jacks are separated into two pairs, the two closest to the selector and the two further away. These two pairs of jacks are internally connected in series with each other. This provides a dizzying array of hookup options, and will allow for up to sixteen(!) normal Hiwatt 16 ohm cabinets to be safely connected. We'll show just one or two of the many hookup options below for each "cabinet collection."
Note that the only numbers of cabinets that will provide a balanced impedance are one, two, four, eight, or sixteen. Three cabs can be connected, but the impedance (and distribution of output power) will be somewhat mismatched.
I've arbitrarily numbered the jacks 1 to 4, with 1 being the jack closet to the impedance selector.
For one cab, plug into any jack (1, 2, 3, or 4), impedance switch = 16 ohms.
For two cabs, either
Plug one cab into each jack of a single pair, i.e., either use 1&2 or 3&4.
Plug one cab into any jack (1, 2, 3, or 4), and connect the second cab directly to the first cab
Impedance switch = 8 ohms
For four cabs plug one cab into each jack, impedance switch = 16 ohms.
For eight cabs plug one cab into each jack, plug one additional cabinet into each of the first four, impedance switch = 8 ohms.
Or just ask Mark Huss about this. http://mhuss.com/Hiwatt/index.html
I'm not sure to understand all of this...and I'm surprised, the head has 4, 8 or 16 ohms switch on the back. But I'll read again your post to be sure about this question.
To KramerBassFan, I don't think so, but not sure too. But easy to know there with the number on the back. Almost sure it's an early '70s one....And it's mint, indeed !
To KramerBassFan, I don't think so, but not sure too. But easy to know there with the number on the back. Almost sure it's an early '70s one....And it's mint, indeed !
It´s not a matter of Ohms. It´s a matter of cabs connected to the amp. It has 4 outputs. And the circuit is wired in 2 pairs. And you MUST connect a cab in AT LEAST one output of each pair of outputs... You have to do that OR If you want to use one cabinet (and get around this issue), you need to insert an unattached 1/4" plug into the pair of output jacks you're not using to open the shorting jack connection. You close the circuit this way.
WARNING ! you may damage the amp if you don´t follow these instructions.. If you need more info just go to the Hiwatt forum (i wrote the URL a few posts ago ) or send Mark Huss an email.
i use a PBDDI and run it into a Behringer head i use as a slave, and it works perfectly fine. Plenty of oomph.
sounds like its been modded if hes getting sound out. Normally they just short the output transformer to ground so it shouldn't blow instantly but if hes getting sound out i guess its been modded.
I think it's an STA-200 from the mid 70's. Does it have a quad of KT88's? Is the serial plate marked "Hylight Electronics"?
possibly, but not quite sure.. you can get sound from just one output while you are slowly killing the amp for not putting a plug into one of the other pair of outputs.
Bill, can you host the pic in another server? cos i can´t see the pic
Hi,
I'm the seller of the STA 200 to BillTheChief here in France.
The head is a four KT88 Hylight one with the second type number plate on the back of the amp. For what I know it's a 71 one.
I don't know if the four output jacks are wiring in parallel or serie & parallel or play like switchs but the fact is that I never had any problem for years to play with only one cab...
I'm the seller of the STA 200 to BillTheChief here in France.
The head is a four KT88 Hylight one with the second type number plate on the back of the amp. For what I know it's a 71 one.
I don't know if the four output jacks are wiring in parallel or serie & parallel or play like switchs but the fact is that I never had any problem for years to play with only one cab...
Yes i'll do it later, no problem.
it's a quad of KT88's, "hylight electronics" on the serial plate and number 1925. 1971 one according to http://mhuss.com/Hiwatt/dates.html
I wad thinking about a sansamp preamp too. It's ok like that for the moment.
I called the guy who sold it to me about what you said bgmww. But i'm not worried so much because he used to have the same configuration without any problems.
it's a quad of KT88's, "hylight electronics" on the serial plate and number 1925. 1971 one according to http://mhuss.com/Hiwatt/dates.html
I wad thinking about a sansamp preamp too. It's ok like that for the moment.
I called the guy who sold it to me about what you said bgmww. But i'm not worried so much because he used to have the same configuration without any problems.
After looking at the schematics, the second wiring (two dr103 wiring pair of output jacks) page 5
http://www.schematicheaven.com/newamps/hiwatt_100w_dr103.pdf
As you can see if you don't plug a jack on an output of each pair you short the circuit and you can't have sound so Bill's STA200 is an earlier one where the four ouputs are in parallel or as been modded...
http://www.schematicheaven.com/newamps/hiwatt_100w_dr103.pdf
As you can see if you don't plug a jack on an output of each pair you short the circuit and you can't have sound so Bill's STA200 is an earlier one where the four ouputs are in parallel or as been modded...
Rickett Customs
Commercial User
Cool.. no worries then...
Great Buy Bill.. wanna get an out of this world sound ?
Option #1, Get another Hiwatt head amp. A DR-103 would be fine.
Option #2 An Alembic F-2B preamp.
I stand corrected on the age then.
The picture made it kinda hard...
But, that interesting speaker jack set up really goes to show... these HIWATTs were REAL beasts back in 1971...
and still are!
And, i'll take this Hand Built British Hiwatt STA over some fancy chinese built Pedal ANY day.... especially when it comes time to resell.
The picture made it kinda hard...
But, that interesting speaker jack set up really goes to show... these HIWATTs were REAL beasts back in 1971...
and still are!
And, i'll take this Hand Built British Hiwatt STA over some fancy chinese built Pedal ANY day.... especially when it comes time to resell.
