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"How bad is it?" Silvertone Hornet resurrection

Dah---dah-dun-done! Love lacquer - it's so easy to use. Two full coats on body & neck and now curing in the sun. Two weeks is usually the full curing time, but I never wait that long. I may start the assembly later in the week. The coats I applied were very thin - for me it's a securing coat that locks-in the paint and exposed wood, so there's no need for a thick coating. And bonus over years is it will age/amber naturally. Here's some pics of the neck - very minimal relic'ing.

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The broken holes are to allow for the tabs on the back of the tuner-plates so they rest flat installed. Not very pretty, but unseen once they are installed.
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You can see a hint of the amber-glaze in this shot. Just enough to be there.
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Underside of neck at the pocket - where player interface happens.
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And while I have the sun, I applied carbon shielding paint in the cavity. This pic shows some wavy (gouged) wood at the upper horn - not so apparent once the bass is assembled and with all the added 'wear' - it just sorta fits in, but not perfect by a long-shot. Gives it character though... You can also see the difference in how the colour looks in direct sunlight and indoor filtered sunlight.
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Down the Dano rabbit-hole - as a fairly new convert to Dano-Technology, I wasn't aware of these late '60s gems - the Hawk guitar and bass.

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And a 1 pu Hawk bass - couldn't find a 2 pu version... maybe it only came w/1. (and no texture finish) Note a similar bridge but the strings loop around it! But wait... 15 frets? :wideyed: (is this some sort of toy bass?)
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My first bass ever was a regular Dano 15 fret DC body like this:
IMG_1021.JPG


My theory is these were fabricated with standard neck blanks, yielding about a 28.5" scale length IIRC. With the added benefit of fitting in a regular guitar case!
 
My first bass ever was a regular Dano 15 fret DC body like this:
View attachment 3648605

My theory is these were fabricated with standard neck blanks, yielding about a 28.5" scale length IIRC. With the added benefit of fitting in a regular guitar case!

Interesting - I've seen these basses for years but never really focused on them until recently. A lot of players never play below the 15th fret anyway right? :bassist:
 
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You get clear down to the 15th fret? :laugh:

Ain't there a saying about "There ain't no money above the 12th fret"?

Well, it's ironic that after stringing this bass up I've found more (related) funkiness to answer the question "How bad is it?". As in, the neck. How a bass known for having a super straight/flat neck could have been so abused as to stray from that is beyond me. I was able to dial the action pretty good filing the nut slots and adjusting the bridge, but getting it better took some creative fudging basically because the neck is non-adjustable. Specific location fret filing/leveling was involved. If I wanted to get more involved (which I don't) I'd remove the fb and go from there. But since I was able to get it very reasonably close - I'm took the route of filing frets. I was able to achieve good action using that tact so that regardless of the funky fb discrepancies - it plays well with very reasonable action. I say "very reasonable" because 'action' is subjective to the player. So I can put it this way - as a player I like low but not excessively low action. I generally play with a light-to-medium 'touch' but want some 'give'/'dig in' room. So this basses action is for me, "low enough" - as on my Coral. It feels a bit different as the neck profiles are different. My Coral as a vey flat D neck with a P-bass nut and Gibson T-bird width heal and I love it. The Silvertone has a soft C profile. (not "baseball bat" - very comfortable)

The Silvertone neck is actually a bit odd, and that once again means Dano-Technology! The hs is straight/Fender style with a string-tree, but the nut is the type that would be on a set-back neck, screwed (in Dano's case) against the end of the fb. (as on my Coral-same aluminum nut) So they saved a bit of money there in the factory. It's also is of standard construction, unlike the Coral with it's grafted-on set-back rosewood hs. Other than that, and the deflated Fender-esque hs shape (like a Fender hs shaped balloon that air has escaped from) - everything is the same as my Coral neck. :)

Anyway, I looked at this neck fix akin to truing an old (50+ old) bicycle wheel that has seen some miles with it's bumps and dents, and getting it pretty darn good with a bit of spoke-wrench finesse. I'd say it's good for another 50 years of R&R! :bassist:

oh yah - pics!

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Dunlop Strap-Lok's are installed for my playing it but I have the original strap-pegs. Strings are EXLBT's 50-120
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Neck pu (new/replaced) is on the anemic side, so I'll be looking into replacing it with something with higher output. Original bridge pu is strong and the bass sounds great!
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I added a Fender bass-esque ground strip for the bridge ground - silence is golden!
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Bass weighs a very nice 8lbs/4oz - pretty ideal in my book. Slight neck-dive - letting go of the neck from 45 degrees, it goes to parallel to the floor. Could be a lot worse.
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Attached the neck with heel imbedded steel inserts and ss machine bolts. "Tilt-neck" adjustment ferrule repurposed from my bicycle parts bin.
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RI Silvertone badge is a bit horsey (originals were smaller script) but looks good - very '60s industrial tagging.
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cousins : Silvertone Hornet / Coral Deluxe Bass - both only made from '66-'68 by Danelectro.
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It's missing something though... I think these might look good on it :D
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That is a fact! :thumbsup: A little insight here - Jon is testing the waters producing vintage-spec lipstick pu surrounds. There's a lot of players using these pu's in their builds or like me have a vintage Dano with missing surrounds. Look anywhere on the net and you can find lipstick pu's for sale all day long made by various companies. Lipstick pu surrounds? Ahh, no - nowhere to be found. Only ones available are for Tele-style guitars - not a simple ring like these. In fact, he is prototyping two styles; this "band" style and another that is like on the Coral basses which are a rounded-cornered rectangle. (you can see these in my pic showing my Coral with the Silvertone) The ones pictured are 'in the mail' and once here I'll post pics. Thanks Jon! :)
 
That color turned out to be a spectacular choice, especially with that resurrected tort. \m/

:) Thanks! I agree. Who would have ever thought Lava soap grey-green could be spectacular! ;) And I really lucked out with that specific tort, I've seen many examples on these basses which vary greatly and this one is really very classic vintage Fender-esque tort. It really comes alive in bright sunlight! I've been enjoying playing it while I'm doing the tweaks necessary to bring it in line. Like my Coral it has a bold authority tonally that puts it in its own category. It's character is the result of a lot of things; the lipstick singles and the spacing of their positions, the solid neck, the resonant poplar wood it's made of, the simple bridge and the V/T/V/T control over blending. Otherwise it's similar enough to most any J-style bass. I now have a few late '60s non-Fender/Gibson basses which all needed some work but have all returned the favor delivering as really great basses. They are considered second-tier by comparison (vintage collectable monetary worth mostly) but in my book are every bit as valuable and special as any Fender/Gibson of the same period - I have a '64 T-bird and a '66 P so I know of what I speak.

Here's one on eBay right now - nowhere near as nice. Looks like ground beef that's beyond its time.

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I took the Hornet to my rehearsal on Sunday. Gotta say, I was very impressed with it. My rehearsal rig is a Carvin 18" cab powered by a Mesa 650w tube/fet hybrid head. (M2000) Similar to the Coral for sure, I'd have to play them side-by-side to hear a difference. But I've found the 'sound in my head' with these Dano-made basses - they do all the things I want to hear and are very comfortable to play. (I like a big bass) I wonder if all Dano basses deliver like these two? Other than body shape - many are very similar as far as pu/pu placement/electronics/bridge/nut etc. Never played a longhorn...
 
I gig with my 1443 and a fretless P-bass these days. The 1443 has mystery flats (dark blue silk wraps), and the P has 88's.
The 1443 has the bridge much more centered on the body vs most long scale basses. Compared to a P-bass bridge, which sits right on the heel, everything is shifted out several inches. Similar to the playing geometry of an ABG. I'm tall and like the shifted out geometry, despite the inherent neck dive that comes with it.

Are the repop rings stainless?
 
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I gig with my 1443 and a fretless P-bass these days. The 1443 has mystery flats (dark blue silk wraps), and the P has 88's.
The 1443 has the bridge much more centered on the body vs most long scale basses. Compared to a P-bass bridge, which sits right on the heel, everything is shifted out several inches. Similar to the playing geometry of an ABG. I'm tall and like the shifted out geometry, despite the inherent neck dive that comes with it.

Are the repop rings stainless?
Nope. The rings are aluminum. Sanded to 2500 grit then polished with Mother's aluminum wheel polish.
 
Well, it's ironic that after stringing this bass up I've found more (related) funkiness to answer the question "How bad is it?". As in, the neck. How a bass known for having a super straight/flat neck could have been so abused as to stray from that is beyond me. I was able to dial the action pretty good filing the nut slots and adjusting the bridge, but getting it better took some creative fudging basically because the neck is non-adjustable. Specific location fret filing/leveling was involved. If I wanted to get more involved (which I don't) I'd remove the fb and go from there. But since I was able to get it very reasonably close - I'm took the route of filing frets. I was able to achieve good action using that tact so that regardless of the funky fb discrepancies - it plays well with very reasonable action. I say "very reasonable" because 'action' is subjective to the player. So I can put it this way - as a player I like low but not excessively low action. I generally play with a light-to-medium 'touch' but want some 'give'/'dig in' room. So this basses action is for me, "low enough" - as on my Coral. It feels a bit different as the neck profiles are different. My Coral as a vey flat D neck with a P-bass nut and Gibson T-bird width heal and I love it. The Silvertone has a soft C profile. (not "baseball bat" - very comfortable)

The Silvertone neck is actually a bit odd, and that once again means Dano-Technology! The hs is straight/Fender style with a string-tree, but the nut is the type that would be on a set-back neck, screwed (in Dano's case) against the end of the fb. (as on my Coral-same aluminum nut) So they saved a bit of money there in the factory. It's also is of standard construction, unlike the Coral with it's grafted-on set-back rosewood hs. Other than that, and the deflated Fender-esque hs shape (like a Fender hs shaped balloon that air has escaped from) - everything is the same as my Coral neck. :)

Anyway, I looked at this neck fix akin to truing an old (50+ old) bicycle wheel that has seen some miles with it's bumps and dents, and getting it pretty darn good with a bit of spoke-wrench finesse. I'd say it's good for another 50 years of R&R! :bassist:

oh yah - pics!

View attachment 3651804
Dunlop Strap-Lok's are installed for my playing it but I have the original strap-pegs. Strings are EXLBT's 50-120
View attachment 3651806
Neck pu (new/replaced) is on the anemic side, so I'll be looking into replacing it with something with higher output. Original bridge pu is strong and the bass sounds great!
View attachment 3651808
I added a Fender bass-esque ground strip for the bridge ground - silence is golden!
View attachment 3651807
Bass weighs a very nice 8lbs/4oz - pretty ideal in my book. Slight neck-dive - letting go of the neck from 45 degrees, it goes to parallel to the floor. Could be a lot worse.
View attachment 3651809
Attached the neck with heel imbedded steel inserts and ss machine bolts. "Tilt-neck" adjustment ferrule repurposed from my bicycle parts bin.
View attachment 3651810
RI Silvertone badge is a bit horsey (originals were smaller script) but looks good - very '60s industrial tagging.
View attachment 3651831

View attachment 3651811
cousins : Silvertone Hornet / Coral Deluxe Bass - both only made from '66-'68 by Danelectro.
View attachment 3651812
Beautiful!!!!! congrats Sir
 
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