As the title says, how picky are you about tuning/intonation? How much does it matter? Do you just check the open string or open and 12th fret…and additionally 5th fret? How about the first fret, because from what I have seen, it shows neck issues real good ? Also where do you draw the line and how do you check? Clip on tuner good enough, pedal, quantum light diffracting particle accelerator? On a clip on tuner that has the green/red lines to show you how much you are off, what is acceptable and what would be perceived in a normal humanoid ear?
I'm really picky about intonation setup. Not just open and 12th fret but also 3rd/15th, 5th/17th, 17th and next higher pitch open string, 19th and next lower pitch open string.
I just check respectively the 12th fret harmonic and fretted note (though I am careful to hit that right spot on). But beyond that unless the intonation on lower and higher frets are so off that I can hear it that's perfectly fine with me. A question though to those who are extraordinarily picky with the intonation on their basses, I assume you stay away from ever playing acoustic stringed fretted instruments, such as acoustic basses and guitars, then (or Violin/Beatles basses with their wood block bridges and Telecaster guitars with traditional 3 saddle Tele bridges for that matter), otherwise I imagine that would be a hell for you?
A little too picky but I'm getting better. Unwavering bars on my Peterson vs "close enough for jazz". Riis
I have tended to stay below the 12th fret, but if you play much on the upper frets, intonation will be more of an issue. My intonation is OK by ear (12th fret and harmonic), but I am starting to get into chords high on the neck, so I figure I will need to intonate a bit more before long.
I’m petty particular. I just check the 12th fret harmonic and fretted and make adjustments. That’s usually “good enough” as my basses are pretty nice.
I've been replacing the limited adjustment wood bridge and piezo saddle on my Hadean solid body bass ukes with an piezo all metal fully adjustable bridge so that I can get better intonation. (The Jazz pickups are fake.)
I'm picky about intonation, but I have't had a bass where it was a problem, except for a particular Stingray that I bought used. All the first-fret fretted notes were just a little sharp, but my most excellent local guitar and bass guy diagnosed the issue as the fret slots not being cut deep enough. He cut them to the proper depth and the first fret intonation issue was remedied. (I don't actually understand how that works, but it did)
If the nut slot is too high, you will be “stretching” the string too much when fretting it, pulling it sharp. If cut lower/correctly, the string will not overstretch when fretted.
The intonation being off is usually a sign for me that I need to change strings. Fresh strings helps pitch, and I find it helps with G.A.S. as well.
about as picky as my strobe tuner. literally none of my instruments measure up to that thing but some variation is acceptable. i try to stabilize the "measurement" between attack and decay.
I'm pretty much in this camp. I try my best to set intonation to my usual fretting force of playing live. Unlike guitar, small variations are not as noticeable on the lower pitches and darker tones of the bass. Plus, since I'm usually playing single notes vs chords, the relativity of individual strings/frets in regards to intonation is also not as perceivable.
It is amazing how the pitch varies with time. I first noticed this with a mechanical strobe tuner in the '70s, but even a small Korg tuner generally starts sharp, shifts flat, then settles-in after a few seconds. Of course, I generally don't hold notes for a few seconds...