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Ibanez BTB Club, Part 2!

I went with the BTB845SC because it is a 35" scale and IMHO has a better B string than the 34" scales do. And because the SC looks kind of cool. It is not really any heavier than any other bass I have Had it is about 9.5 pounds If I remember correctly. It balances well and plays well and has sustain and tone for days.
 
best if you could post some pics of the problem...

the BTB405QM came with Mono Rail II individual bridges, so is there something different about the low-B string bridge than the rests?

and how about the truss rods, have you set them up properly? are you familiar with dual truss rods setup?

Well, here are a few pics. Sorry, I couldn't find my stainless mini-ruler, but I hope you get the picture (pun intended).
I checked the relief again and while there IS a gap around the middle of the neck, my smallest feeler gauge is .011 and it wouldn't slip through.
The string height at the last few frets looks to be about .090 inches. I measured it with the feeler gauge set and it is exactly .09", which is close to 6/64.
I know I might be splitting hairs here, but shouldn't I be able to get the B lower than .090" if I the saddle is all the way down?

Thanks for any comment. I appreciate it.
21st fret 3_16ths.jpg
21st fret 3_16ths.jpg
22nd fret view.jpg
 

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Well, here are a few pics. Sorry, I couldn't find my stainless mini-ruler, but I hope you get the picture (pun intended).
I checked the relief again and while there IS a gap around the middle of the neck, my smallest feeler gauge is .011 and it wouldn't slip through.
The string height at the last few frets looks to be about .090 inches. I measured it with the feeler gauge set and it is exactly .09", which is close to 6/64.
I know I might be splitting hairs here, but shouldn't I be able to get the B lower than .090" if I the saddle is all the way down?

Thanks for any comment. I appreciate it.
View attachment 3060952 View attachment 3060952 View attachment 3060953
here are some comparison of mine, with the same bridge Mono Rail II bridges (different finishing color):

IMG_20180626_1416452.jpg


Mine has an action of 2 mm at the 12th fret and roughly the same 2.4 mm at the few last (22nd/23rd) frets as yours, which for me it's low enough since I'm using quite thick .135T low-B string that needs some space to oscillate.

Despite string action is all about personal preference, but comparing the bridges pictures of yours to mine, which clearly seen that the saddles on yours are mostly at their bottom where mine are all up, thus I think I agree that the neck pocket on yours may need a shim.

The next thing I noticed, the low-B string on yours seems to have an arc over the saddle (which here on Talk Bass can be referred from this thread: Witness Points: The Pictorial), where on mine the witness point on the saddles were all set (but mine has a taperwound low-B, so it's easier to set the witness point despite I use thick string). Setting the witness point on the saddle could lower the action a little bit more. But then I could also be wrong, cause I could only see 1 viewing angle of your strings over their saddles.

IMG_20180626_1417105.jpg


And the last thing about the taperwound string. Instead of shimming the neck, it would be easier for you to use a taperwound low-B string like mine, which can also lower the string action a little bit more.
 
Thank you for your reply. I did apply pressure to the string at the bridge for a witness point. The string is so thick, though, maybe it doesn't show.
My main question is:
What do I use to shim the neck that won't compromise the B string solidness?
My opinion is, this bass should have never made it past QC.
 
Thank you for your reply. I did apply pressure to the string at the bridge for a witness point. The string is so thick, though, maybe it doesn't show.
My main question is:
What do I use to shim the neck that won't compromise the B string solidness?
My opinion is, this bass should have never made it past QC.
My overall point of view, there's nothing wrong with shimming the neck. AAMOF, I've experienced opening neck joint of few guitars/basses which had shim inside the neck pocket from factory.

Did you buy that BTB used? If so, then there's possibilities the previous owner took it off cause felt not needing it.

What to use as a shim? Anything... But usually very thin paper like piece of wood.
 
My overall point of view, there's nothing wrong with shimming the neck. AAMOF, I've experienced opening neck joint of few guitars/basses which had shim inside the neck pocket from factory.

Did you buy that BTB used? If so, then there's possibilities the previous owner took it off cause felt not needing it.

What to use as a shim? Anything... But usually very thin paper like piece of wood.

Yes I did buy it used. $240. Sweet deal I thought. The previous owner had the strings adjusted unbelievably high, and when I checked the bridge height, I figured I'd be OK and that I could just do a setup. The neck appeared to be in great shape, and it is.
I'm just baffled, and don't want to ruin the solid connection of the neck to the bass.
 
Yes I did buy it used. $240. Sweet deal I thought. The previous owner had the strings adjusted unbelievably high, and when I checked the bridge height, I figured I'd be OK and that I could just do a setup. The neck appeared to be in great shape, and it is.
I'm just baffled, and don't want to ruin the solid connection of the neck to the bass.
Don't worry so much. Again... even factories use shim when needed. IIRC, sometime more than 1 ply were used. They will be tightly pressed thus they'll transfer the vibrations. Also the bolts will.
 
I know I could check for myself, but I won't be home until Friday.......
Are there bolts or screws? I assume screws, but if they are bolts, I wouldn't be too worried about shimmying it.
Maybe a credit card?
I know I worry too much. I just want to get the bass to where I want it so that I can concentrate on playing it.
Thanks.
 
As mentioned, it could be anything actually. I once used a small cut of plastic from some packaging for shimming my old 6 string bass.

But best if you can get properly cut shim, with measured amount of thickness and degree of angle, from places like stewmac.
 
I just acquired a BTB746 and really like it, nice bass. Looks great, sounds great.

This is the first bass I've had with the Neutrik locking jack, and man, is it secure! I've noticed that i have to press the red lever thingy down real, and it still takes a little bit of a tug to pull the cable out. Not having any experience with these, is that pretty common? Thanks alot.
 
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Anybody know the string spacing on a BTB1825E? I can't find anything online about this. Why do they leave out stuff like this?
Or am I the dummy and are all BTB's 19mm?

I don't know the spacing, but if you email hoshino customer service they could probably look that up. It may take a bit for them to get back to you though. They've been helpful to me.

[email protected]
 
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Anybody know the string spacing on a BTB1825E? I can't find anything online about this. Why do they leave out stuff like this?
Or am I the dummy and are all BTB's 19mm?
By default, all 4 and 5 string BTBs have 19 mm string spacing and all the 6 strings have 17 mm (and the 7ers have 15.5 mm). Only just recent years they've made Bass Workshop line BTB Volos with different settings: BTB Volo 5ers are 17 mm and BTB Volo 6er is 16.5 mm.