Im a DR guy now..

[ksandvik]

For me long time ago DR Lo-Riders fixed all the problems I had with RotoSounds *) with about the same sound. Case closed.

*) Rough, are sure fret eaters, a little bit less stiff than I wanted, wear out after 2 weeks or use which makes it expensive to constantly replace them. This would be different if I had an endorsee deal and a guitar technician who would swap out strings before each gig and practice and an unlimited supply of bass guitars from a manufacturer, though.

 

[hotbass57]

I saw in the GC add they had 2 sets of DR Black Beauties for $39.00. FYI

 

[Reaper Man]

add me to this group too- Fat beams on my L2k, lo riders (I think- but definitely a DR string) on my modded squier, and hi beams on my ATK

 

[grendle]

I've been sold on DR's since I was offered a set back in the late '90's... Main reason for me is their consistency and longevity.

+1

Been a hi beam user for 10+ years. Always found them about the same price as others (about $20) give or take a buck or two. Always consistant, always sound great, and last 2x the others. If I had to Daddario super steels would work, but they die pretty quick.

 

[BassBob1]

I have liked stainless lo-riders and sunbeams especially but I can't seem to leave my chromes for too long with out missing them. I need another jazz for my rounds.

 

[adivin]

I find the DR names they give the string line confusing. Can anyone put good descriptions to their string line? Fat Beam, Hi Beam, Sun Beam, Lo rider, what the hell?

 

[miholc]

I used to go nutz trying every string on the market. I'm so done with that.

I'm DR for life now.

I use only Hi-Beams but I kill strings within a few weeks due to sweat. Now that I tried out the Dragon Skins (coated Hi-Beams), I'm never buying another string again.

Haven't heard for these before. Have anyone used these Dragon Skins and coated Elixirs and if how do they compare?

I also tend to kill strings super fast so I'm set on elixirs (for now). I would appreciate some input before I order a set from States (can't find DR DS's on this side of teh pond).

 

[Lorenzini]

I'm a DR user too. Sometimes leave for other companies but nothing beats the feel of Hi Beams, Fat Beams, Sunbeams. And when I need stiff I go Lo Rider.

 

[sratas]

+ 1.
Love the hi-beam feel and smoothness. very interested in a coated version without the colors. I reply the question. Have you tried these Dragon Skin? How do they compare, tone-wise and feel-wise, with standard hi-beams?

Haven't heard for these before. Have anyone used these Dragon Skins and coated Elixirs and if how do they compare?

I also tend to kill strings super fast so I'm set on elixirs (for now). I would appreciate some input before I order a set from States (can't find DR DS's on this side of teh pond).

 

[BagelBruin]

I find the DR names they give the string line confusing. Can anyone put good descriptions to their string line? Fat Beam, Hi Beam, Sun Beam, Lo rider, what the hell?

Hi Beam: Round core stainless steel

Fat Beam: These are a Marcus Miller signature set. I have never played them, but they are made out of steel. There are generally considered to be stiffer than Hi Beams with more mids.

Lo Rider: Hex core stainless steel. Tougher tension with a little more pop than Hi Beams. NOTE, they also come in nickel, and those are simply called "Nickel Low Riders."

Sun Beams: Nickels strings with a round core, and my favorite!

 

[mmbongo]

I find the DR names they give the string line confusing. Can anyone put good descriptions to their string line? Fat Beam, Hi Beam, Sun Beam, Lo rider, what the hell?

Think of it this way:
Any Beam = round core, low tension.
Any Rider = hex core, normal tension.

 

[adivin]

Think of it this way:
Any Beam = round core, low tension.
Any Rider = hex core, normal tension.

That is good to know. What about the tonal qualities? Fat, Low, Sun, Hiigh....

 

[niels125]

I used nickel Lowriders once. Hated 'em. Used High Beams a few times. Went back to my old brand (D'Addario). Used Fat Beams for a minute. Thought they were great, but not great enough to pay extra for. Used Sunbeams. Still think they're great. Used Dunlop nickels, thought they sounded good as Sunbeams. Went with the Dunlops 'cause they were cheaper. Found out the Dunlops were developed with the help of a former DR guy. Stayed with the Dunlops. You should try 'em once.

I'd use the Sunbeams again. Good choice!

High quality handmade DR strings against Dunlops?

I tried dunlops once because they were cheap, replaced them in 2 days... horrible horrible dead sounding strings with total lack of definition

 

[dmac1961]

I was originally a Rotosound user, then back in the late 80's, I found some Yamaha strings that were exceptional, but had to special order. Started using DR HI-beams when they first came out and have never looked back. Killer strings!

 

[BagelBruin]

High quality handmade DR strings against Dunlops?

I tried dunlops once because they were cheap, replaced them in 2 days... horrible horrible dead sounding strings with total lack of definition

Was their G string HORRIBLE for you?

And I've met some guys who just really dig Dunlops, to each his own!

 

[keiththebassist]

I usually use Low-riders after being turned on to them by a friend. Just recently strung up a set of SIT Hex core SS strings which I gotta say are growing on me after a few days, nice mellow finger tone for a hex core and incredibly edgy slap tone. The DR's however were love at first note.

 

[maxiegrant]

I've been using DR for so long now I can't remember when I last had something else. I remember for awhile I was using Rotos, but they were eating the frets on my Ric. Sometime in the 1990's, and I think early on, I started using Ken Smith pressurewound (I think?) strings and I was pretty sold on those for a good long time until I picked up a set of DR. I think the guy who turned me on to those was the proprietor of First Bass in Denver, CO. He replaced the tuners on my Ric (they were the early '70's closed-back Grovers and they sucked ass) and I think we put a set of DR on at the time. I never, ever, ever went back. If I am totally strapped for cash and just need to fix a dead or broken set for a gig, I might in a moment of weakness opt for a cheap set of nickels to get me through, but when I want good strings it's always DR.

One time I tried those Elixr strings and I utterly hated them. Felt like my strings were encased in rubber (which was I guess technically true) and the coating wore off pretty fast under my none-too-gentle hands. The tone was simply dreadful. I've done the GHS route too, and I'm pretty sure at some point I put some D'Addario strings on, but I always end up going back to DR. All 4 of my main basses now have DR on them. I just get the most consistent tone and response, and boy oh boy do they last and last and last.

Edit: I use hi-beams. Medium gauge. I tried heavy for awhile but it wasn't adding as much fatness to my sound as it was impeding my playing.

 

[slapagroov]

Used only hi beams on my modulus Q6 for years. Tried sunbeams and thought they were too dark. Tried them again this week on my jazz and still feel they're dark. Different strokes. Been using daddario xls b/c they're cheap, but I like them. Putting fat beams on the 5 this week. I kinda hope I don't like them so I can save money!!! Not likely...

They also have great CS. I actually had 2 instances a couple years apart where I had a dead string. I just emailed to ask what I should do and they sent me a new pack right away w/o any questions. I was really impressed.

 

[klokker]

Prefer the playability and feel of Sunbeams but use Nickel Lo-Riders for the rock band, the strong mids fit our sound better. I really like them after they deaden a bit......which takes a little time.

 

[Igotsoul4u]

I haven't thought about another brand in 15 years. Fat beams are my favorite. Best sounding light strings out there.