]After 30+ years of gigging, and spending 11 years managing a guitar store where I did sales, teaching, repairs, set-up, maintenance, mods, etc. I believe that whatever impact the fingerboard has is so variable and negligible as to be meaningless. And I ain't in the "wood doesn't matter camp" at all. But the fingerboard isn't that key to it. I've simply played too many maple neck Fender-style instruments that were darker and too many rosewood-necked ones that were brigther to be able to say that it makes a real difference.
IFF (as in "if and only if") ALL things were identical, one might be able to make a case for a maple board being brighter. But they ain't the same. It's different chunks of wood every single time and that's going to cause more differences than the species. Plus, one thing frequently ignored in these discussions is that that a Fender maple neck is generally a one-piece maple neck while a rosewood board has two different species glued together.
It's a statistically meaningless comparison, but the rosewood board Laklands I've played compared to the maple board Laklands (all US Laklands have quarter-sawn maple necks with the fingerboard glued on) is that there's no sonic difference.
Plus, Duck Dunn sounds great with flats on his maple-board basses (both his ancient Fender 'burst with the anodized guard and the Lakland Bob Glaubs he played before Lakland made his signature model). And Jamerson's first Precsion was a maple neck one and I believe his early recordings were done with that bass.
My philosophy is that what the bass is made of isn't nearly as important as what THIS chunk of wood and metal sounds like in MY hands when I play it. If it sounds good, then that's the bass for me whether it's a 1962 sunburst P with rosewood board, a 1978 Antigua Jazz with blocks 'n' binding (my all-time worst nightmare of a bass), or a brand new MIM Standard P. Because I'm going to be playing the bass, not the catalog nor the specs.
John