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Jule Amps Monique part 5

#1,961
Paakaula said:
Ho nah Palolo Valley! Chee, me ka right on nō ho‘i. Where would I find the fuse in Momo? Like I said, still trying to educate myself. My soldering experience encompasses making cables so I may let my electrical engineer friend with his fancy shmancy soldering kit do the job. There are indeed radioshacks still here so I'll shoot it down there to get me a big fat switch. How they stay open I have no sweet clue. Next time I'll contact you directly, mahalo everyone, mahalo e Jule!
Click to expand...

For those interested in the fuse, it can be found directly under the power cord socket:
14573494350_e9d14f99c7_b.jpg
 
#1,962
Forgot the fuse question. It is a 2 amp fuse hidden in the lower part of where the power cord plugs in. Very easy to get to. Pry the little notch out toward you. You'll get it.

But if that on/off switch doesn't move properly, I'll bet that is where the solution is.

As to the Palolo Valley reference, I spent four great years (middle school through Junior High) growing up in Hawaii. Magic place. Magic time. A band of crazy brothers. No shoes at school. Poi. Wild pigs charging though creek bottoms at night. Bought my first musical instrument there - Ukulele.
 
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#1,964
BurningSkies said:
I assume it's a switch like this. I have a few of these kicking around since I built my fEARful and it's been a solid component.

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but Single throw rather than double, no center off.
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Click to expand...
Almost. We do not want the "center off" feature. But that is the size and type that is required.
 
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#1,965
juledude said:
Studio Slips just came up with a very nice bag for the Tardis 700 (for a customer in Norway) that is great. The Tardis 700 slips down into the bag (much like a bicycle messenger bag) with its side down. That way there is no opportunity to put too much pressure on the front or back bits.
Click to expand...
Studio Slips only list a product for the de-monique tardis. Is the m700 tardis the same size?
 
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#1,976
Dave W said:
Is there a way to add an input on the back of a rack mount Monique?

Having all of my cabling going to the back of my rack would make things a little neater.
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It could be done, but it might induce noise we would not appreciate. The distance between the input jack and the first gain stage of any amplifier (not just tube) is a critical distance. The more distance = the more noise. For the techies, we are inducing a couple picofarads of capacitance for every inch of even the best shielded cable. Adding that extra capacitance over a length of a foot or so is a bit like mumbling into the speaker when you order from Jack In The Box. You never quite know what you are going to end up with.
 
#1,977
Jule Potter said:
It could be done, but it might induce noise we would not appreciate. The distance between the input jack and the first gain stage of any amplifier (not just tube) is a critical distance. The more distance = the more noise. For the techies, we are inducing a couple picofarads of capacitance for every inch of even the best shielded cable. Adding that extra capacitance over a length of a foot or so is a bit like mumbling into the speaker when you order from Jack In The Box. You never quite know what you are going to end up with.
Click to expand...
This is a very different story with the M700 Stand-Alone Bass amp. The M700 input jack goes directly to a potentiometer that acts as an attenuator. We have, per several customer requests, been very successful moving the input on the M700 to the rear. When we do this on the M700 we convert the front input hole to a standby switch.

This has been requested by three players so far, and they are happy with the result.

I would like to ask for opinions as to whether this is something that should be a permanent change? Should all M700 Amps have input jack on the rear and have an added Standby switch?
 
#1,978
Awesome info. Thanks!

If I were to purchase an M700 and use my current setup I would want an input on the back.

The reason why I'm asking about it is because I'd like to make a 2 cable bundle. Cable 1 runs from my wireless output to the input of my board and cable 2 runs from my board output to my amp input. Nice and neat with only one thing to trip on.
It would be cool to bundle power into it as well (for the board) but that's a no-no in my line of work so I figure it's not the best idea here either.
 
#1,979
Jule Potter said:
This is a very different story with the M700 Stand-Alone Bass amp. The M700 input jack goes directly to a potentiometer that acts as an attenuator. We have, per several customer requests, been very successful moving the input on the M700 to the rear. When we do this on the M700 we convert the front input hole to a standby switch.

This has been requested by three players so far, and they are happy with the result.

I would like to ask for opinions as to whether this is something that should be a permanent change? Should all M700 Amps have input jack on the rear and have an added Standby switch?
Click to expand...
I definitely prefer the rear input idea. Is that something that can be done with mine after the fact? I just got it, but would definitely prefer a rear input.
 
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#1,980
Jule Potter said:
This is a very different story with the M700 Stand-Alone Bass amp. The M700 input jack goes directly to a potentiometer that acts as an attenuator. We have, per several customer requests, been very successful moving the input on the M700 to the rear. When we do this on the M700 we convert the front input hole to a standby switch.

This has been requested by three players so far, and they are happy with the result.

I would like to ask for opinions as to whether this is something that should be a permanent change? Should all M700 Amps have input jack on the rear and have an added Standby switch?
Click to expand...
Rear input would look neater, shorter cable run.
 
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