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Jule Amps Monique part 5
- Thread starter Chef
- Start date
Np.
I have both the Demeter Minnie and the M700 and they both sound fantastic in their own way. You really can't go wrong with either one. Good luck and congrats!
One more thing. Mine only has one switch on the front left side. I assume the other switch on the newer ones is a standby switch?
Dominick C.
Guest
I believe it is a power amp switch. That way you can just run the pre without the power.
Monique in her native habitat
and if you're really adventurous - a rough mix of one of the tracks. We tracked rhythm section live (acoustic guitar, bass, drums) and then popped electric guitar and sax on top. Basically just got a rough drum mix, slapped a few effects for reference. Still a lot of work to do...
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and if you're really adventurous - a rough mix of one of the tracks. We tracked rhythm section live (acoustic guitar, bass, drums) and then popped electric guitar and sax on top. Basically just got a rough drum mix, slapped a few effects for reference. Still a lot of work to do...
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Sorry to have neglected this thread. Somehow I am not getting consistent notifications of posts.
The Hypex is rated down to 2 ohms optimized to 4 ohms. The Minnie (800 watt IcePower) is rated to 4 ohm optimized to 4 ohms. Using the Minnie into 2 ohms is not recommended.
An excellent player/friend in The Netherlands has run for more than a year with one 4 and one 8 ohm cabs with his Rack Mount 700 using the Hypex amp. That is 2.6 ohms. Now that I think of it, it probably never gets as hot anywhere in The Netherlands as it does Summertime in Austin.
What happens with Class D amps (all of them) is that when we run into the low impedance range (2 for Hypex, 4 for the 800 IcePower) we generate a lot of additional heat. It is the heat that causes problems. It must be moved away from the amp. All Class D amps have a bunch of heat sensing in them to keep them out of trouble when things get hot. Usually, when they are hot they simply quit until they are cooled enough to operate safely, which is not at all good for the performance.
In the spirit of the over-built power Hypex power supply, I have done the same with cooling. More cooling with a Class D amp is never a bad thing.
The entire aluminum bottom of the M700 stand-alone Bass amp is a very large heat sink. Hypex says a fan is not required. I stuck the quietest fan there I could find in there, just in case. All this goes back to kind players in Austin TX letting me know how darned hot it can get on some of those outdoor gigs. The Tardis 700 is made entirely of aluminum and it also gets the same fan. The Rack Mount 700 has more holes in it than my favorite pair of jeans, plus the fan.
The De-Monique has one power switch that turns on both Monique and the 800 watt amp.
The Monique 700 has two power switches. One for Monique and one for the 700 watt bass amp.
The thinking is that some customers in the studio have no need for the 700 watt amp on some occasions. Both Monique and the 700 watt amplifier are independent of each other. But of course they are made to work very well together.
Also, you can use the 700 watt amp entirely independently of Monique if you wish. For both the Rack Mount 700 and the Tardis 700 you will find (on the back) an "amp input" 1/4" jack. That "amp input" goes directly to the amplifier, bypassing Monique. The initial desire for the "amp input" was for customers desiring to use effects between Monique and the 700 watt amp. Easy: just take the Line Out of Monique to your the input of your effect/s and put the output of the effect/s into the "Amp Input." As usual, this idea came from several customers. I know so little.
Very interesting stuff! I really like it. Which fretless are you playing?Monique in her native habitat
and if you're really adventurous - a rough mix of one of the tracks. We tracked rhythm section live (acoustic guitar, bass, drums) and then popped electric guitar and sax on top. Basically just got a rough drum mix, slapped a few effects for reference. Still a lot of work to do...
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That's the Smith - bass is magic. That tune has the most obvious glissando stuff. I did the other 3 tracks with fretless but hard to tell. The bass speaks really well. I don't know why there aren't more Smith fretless basses out there. I think the pickup position and electronics are a perfect match for no frets...
It does sound excellent. When you get a chance, please post a pic. I have never had the pleasure of playing a Smith, but I think they are truly gorgeous instruments. The Fodera you posted in the P-bass thread is really gorgeous bass as well.
BTW, I look forward to hearing your songs once you get them mixed down. Please repost when finished.
Aloha mai kākou from Hawai‘i nei, my dear Momo (rack mount style bought in 2013) stopped working recently and it's been hell. I've been searching through this forum for some answers but I figured it was time to just ask. I need help troubleshooting her, nothing looks broken to me but I know frustratingly little of electronics. The most information I can give is, when she stopped working the lightbulb jewel on the front turned off and I get no signal from either the trs or balanced outputs. I didn't hear a loud pop when it happened and the power switch on the front also feels stuck and I'm afraid that may be damaged, too. Sorry, I know this is rather vague. I replaced the rectifier tube earlier today with a JJ EZ81 but there's no difference. To Jule, I'm not sure how many Moniques you've sent to Hawai‘i but I'm the bassist for a guy named Tyler B. It's his Monique, I'm just the lucky bastard who gets to play through her. Mahalo nui loa!
I can't address most of that except to say that @Jule Potter (Bat-Signal tag) is a good guy and I'm sure that he'll help you. Well, that, and if the power switch feeling stuck coincides with what sounds like it could be no power (no light, no signal, presumably no glowing tubes), maybe it's just a bad switch?
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
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I assume the first thing you checked was the fuse?
Contact Jule directly.
[email protected]
661 428 9394
He's also easily found on Facebook.
Oh, yeah. I forgot about that. Last time I changed one was on my old hatchback, I think. Note to self: Acquire and carry a spare fuse for all relevant amps.
Yo! Been a few years.
This is the Palolo Valley kid (aka Jule). Sounds like you have a broken on/off switch to me.
Out of the many hundreds used, (heavy duty gold plated switch) I have seen a couple that get jammed and will not turn on. I don't recall hearing of any that failed with players since they get weeded out in testing. Still. . . it sounds like what has you in trouble.
Very easily replaced by anyone you would trust with a soldering iron. A trip to Radio Shack (if there are still any open there) will give you a DPDT switch. Even your local hardware store will have them in Electrical. Get a gnarly looking one. Ugly and big is good. Small and pretty is not.
Ho nah Palolo Valley! Chee, me ka right on nō ho‘i. Where would I find the fuse in Momo? Like I said, still trying to educate myself. My soldering experience encompasses making cables so I may let my electrical engineer friend with his fancy shmancy soldering kit do the job. There are indeed radioshacks still here so I'll shoot it down there to get me a big fat switch. How they stay open I have no sweet clue. Next time I'll contact you directly, mahalo everyone, mahalo e Jule!
