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Just opened up my 210MBE...

Bill, with much respect...I've owned many cabs that were made as well as anything out there...Epifani, Bergantino, Genz, Schroeder...and much prefer the sound I get out of the MB212..."for my sound". Maybe I 'like' the peaks and valleys created by 'wrong' cabs?


Depending on what and where those peakes and valleys are, they may inadvertantley suit the sound you're looking for right now. Don't forget, "if it sounds good, it is good". That doesn't take away from the fact that it may actually sound better or by making it better you can make it to sound "better".

The MB210 may indeed be a little "gem" here where the speakers, the box and the amp (or not), despite the short-comings of each may enhance each other and turn out to be a good combination but simple, time-proven concepts like making a solid box and using decent damping could make it that much better for what?

As rspands estimates...$5 in material and a hour or two of your time? That's retail....When you as a company makes these things by the hundreds or thousands and factor in wholesale prices you're talking what $1.50 per cab? Put a 300% markup on that and you're still under $5...that's lame.
 
To re-post on myself.......Yay:hyper: I made page 13 on how to make a cheap cab better. Like it or not, this is one of my fortes. Now before we go on about 1/2" birch and driver alignment, let's remember this is supposed to be a very cheap but good sounding cab. This is why pieces for the combohead mount are included in the cab version that doesn't have an amp in it. It's cheaper to make a lot of one thing than it is to make 2 different versions of the same thing. Labor and re-tooling are more expensive than material.

If only people ever thought of what ever happens to the crap they throw away. I'm not a tree-hugger by any means but come on people, some of the crap we use and don't even think about is going to be trashing up the place long after we're dead and gone.....our great-great-great-great grandchildren are going to still be dealing with this crap and having to clean it up just so we here now can get a bass to sound good for cheap.:D

That said, I forgot what I was going to say in the first place but it made a lot of sense.......really.:D
 
To re-post on myself.......Yay:hyper: I made page 13 on how to make a cheap cab better. Like it or not, this is one of my fortes. Now before we go on about 1/2" birch and driver alignment, let's remember this is supposed to be a very cheap but good sounding cab. This is why pieces for the combohead mount are included in the cab version that doesn't have an amp in it. It's cheaper to make a lot of one thing than it is to make 2 different versions of the same thing. Labor and re-tooling are more expensive than material.

If only people ever thought of what ever happens to the crap they throw away. I'm not a tree-hugger by any means but come on people, some of the crap we use and don't even think about is going to be trashing up the place long after we're dead and gone.....our great-great-great-great grandchildren are going to still be dealing with this crap and having to clean it up just so we here now can get a bass to sound good for cheap.:D

That said, I forgot what I was going to say in the first place but it made a lot of sense.......really.:D

I can usually fill in the blanks or read between the lines --------------------- most of the time.

This time I am stymied. :hmm:
 
Depending on what and where those peakes and valleys are, they may inadvertantley suit the sound you're looking for right now. Don't forget, "if it sounds good, it is good"...
That's what I'm saying...the recording I did this last weekend sounds phenomenal to me. At every gig I'm gobsmacked by how awesome it sounds. After LOTS of gear-swapping, I've found a great combination of equipment that sounds exactly the way I want it to. Why would I want to mess with that?
 
OK, so I've read through most of this thread over the past couple weeks. As a general rule of thumb, the consensus seems to be that the cab should be lined with some sound dampening material.

So my question now is: How small of a cab (or combo, even) does this matter?
We understand the larger boxes (1x15, 4x10, etc) needing it, but what about those smaller boxes out there. For example (and I'm speaking hypothetically) a Fender Rumble 15 or other smaller practice amp. Think about an amp under 50watts or so. Maybe something with a single 10" or even 8" cone inside.

I know there are [DEL]kids[/DEL] guys out there right now with these smaller, lower wattage practice-type set ups who are wondering if they need to open their boxes and glue some foam in there.

Do you think there is a size limit, a point where it doesn't matter anymore?
 
The size is more a factor for bracing. When you make a small cabinet out of 3/4" plywood for example, the amount of bracing is needed is minimal, because you get a lot of strength from the joints at the corners.
 
I was going to sell my MB210 even after this work but was playing with it outside and it was working pretty well. When I try to dial in my sound I can't quite get it but if I dip some low mid it works well regardless. Just does not have that punchy snarl I can get with the hydrive 4 and transient attack. Now I feel I've got a good choice for smaller duties. I am glad I did not get the MBE210 extension to try to get my 4x10 punch after all. What I might try is connecting the hydrive as the extension to see what it sounds like.