La Bella Deep Talkin': Best. Strings. Ever.

[SGD Lutherie]

No I didn't buy the extra long! I sent an email to the store where I bought, and I may call Labella today.

On a P-bass, for example, how close should the silk ends be to the tuner posts? On my set they were all almost touching (as opposed to Chromes where all the silk ends lay around the nut). The E metal part of the string was partially wrapped around the post.

The silk is supposed to wrap around the post. It doesn't have to be near the nut.

I didn't have my LaBellas on a fender, they were on a Rick, which is a little shorter in scale. I seem to remember that the metal part of low E went about a quarter of the way around the post with no problems. Any more than that might break the string.

 

[T-MOST]

It's nice to see someone building basses in NJ... and just next door at that! Good luck.

 

[SGD Lutherie]

It's nice to see someone building basses in NJ... and just next door at that! Good luck.

Thanks! Where are you?

 

[mazdah]

No I didn't buy the extra long! I sent an email to the store where I bought, and I may call Labella today.

On a P-bass, for example, how close should the silk ends be to the tuner posts? On my set they were all almost touching (as opposed to Chromes where all the silk ends lay around the nut). The E metal part of the string was partially wrapped around the post.

It's all right. Everything is fine, nothing to worry

 

[Surly]

It's all right. Everything is fine, nothing to worry

The actual issue is that the E sounds dead. I thought it was may have been due to the "fit". I have read about Labella quality issues on this forum before.

 

[mazdah]

I have the same problem from time to time, when I put string off my bass for cleaning. Put off the string, and put it on back again, should work.

 

[SGD Lutherie]

You want to try and make sure the string doesn't twist when putting it on, and also that it has a good bend over the bridge saddle's "witness point." I have found with some strings that gently pressing them on the saddle to give them a little bend helps.

 

[Chris Breese]

Any more than a gentle press can ruin a string. I was putting strings on one of my basses and got a little too rough bending the string over the bridge. It started making a warbling sound that was too bad to live with. Live and learn.

 

[kr0n]

I was planning on getting these string, the FS model. My basses are all setup with 45-105 sets and I do not wish to change my nut in anyway for a test drive. I was planning on downtuning a bit, drop c & whole-step so CGCF. I was the under the impression these strings are higher tension than the same gauge set of roundwounds and this would offer me a chance for better sound instead of getting thicker strings for downtuning. Also more prominent fundamental sounds intriguing but I'm still a bit skeptic how I would like the tone.
Is there a solid logic behind this thought or should I be doing something else for downtuning...

 

[SGD Lutherie]

I was planning on downtuning a bit, drop c & whole-step so CGCF. I was the under the impression these strings are higher tension than the same gauge set of roundwounds and this would offer me a chance for better sound instead of getting thicker strings for downtuning.

That's two steps down on the E.

I don't think it will work well. How a string tunes is a combination of the mass and tension. You might get them down a step, but I can't see them going down that low without using a Low B string.

 

[uncle Bob]

Its so good to learn that Players of note are focused and realizing the value of LaBella Deep Talkin' Bass sets.
Those Flat Sounds you have experienced were used many years ago to lay down incredible grooves we enjoy today.
Considering the cost of BAss Strings vs. Guitar strings, it pays to be really focused on what you arm your favorite bass with.
Look at the playere, Past and Present, to see the applicaton of different sets, adn move forward from there.
FL, FS, FX, 0760M, which ever your choice, you win.

 

[kr0n]

That's two steps down on the E.

I don't think it will work well. How a string tunes is a combination of the mass and tension. You might get them down a step, but I can't see them going down that low without using a Low B string.

So am I supposed to get my nut filed or replaced just to down tune properly? No high tension standard gauge strings out there made from a special alloy?

 

[SGD Lutherie]

So am I supposed to get my nut filed or replaced just to down tune properly? No high tension standard gauge strings out there made from a special alloy?

Well yeah, since the bass wasn't designed for that tuning or heavier string gages.

The nut on the bass was made to accommodate the string gauges it came with, and maybe a little variance either way.

If you want to make drastic string gauge changes, you need a new nut cut, or have the old one filed out. That's not a big deal though. It's a fairly standard thing to do.

To tune lower without the strings being floppy you need heavier strings. That's why they are not all the same diameter. Lower notes need a string with more mass for a given scale length. Take a look at a piano for an example. Higher tension strings are just stiffer. Think how stiff a .100 E string would feel tuned up to A. But now tune the A down to E and see how floppy it is. Or tune the E down to C. So you need a heavier string there. The strings were made to tune to certain pitches at a given scale length.

 

[eric blank]

what set would you guys recommend for a short scale Mosrite bass? i play it with a pick and i want to keep the tension on the lighter side... just not TI light if you know what i mean.

 

[mazdah]

I'm considering switching from 760FL (43-104) to 760M ('54 Oldies aka Jamerson Set, 52-110) but I'm a little worried about my neck and nut.

I have a American Vintage '62 P-bass.

Will they fit at the nut?
Can they damage the neck?

Any experiences?

 

[SGD Lutherie]

I'm considering switching from 760FL (43-104) to 760M ('54 Oldies aka Jamerson Set, 52-110) but I'm a little worried about my neck and nut.

I have a American Vintage '62 P-bass.

Will they fit at the nut?
Can they damage the neck?

Any experiences?

They should work on a P bass just fine. That's what they used back then. You might need to tighten the truss rod a bit, but that's what's it's there for.

 

[guroove]

I used those strings. I had to tighten the truss rod a bit after putting them on, but I realized I could lower the action much lower with the heavy strings than with the 760 FL set.

 

[IotaNet]

I have a set of 760FL's on my G&L 2500. I love the way these things sound and the way they feel. With these strings, it doesn't sound exactly like a P-Bass but it's pretty danged close. It has that old-school BASS vibe and it definitely tames some of the aggressiveness inherent to the G&L.

Nice fat, warm, thick tone but with plenty of midrange definition. I also love the fact that they feel so smooth to the touch. I've used some flats that that had a bit of friction and I didn't like it. These feel smooth as glass.

I've tried Chromes, I've tried TI's, I've tried EB's, and I've tried others. These are the only flat's I'll use.

 

[jasper383]

I used those strings. I had to tighten the truss rod a bit after putting them on, but I realized I could lower the action much lower with the heavy strings than with the 760 FL set.

Yes. I could get the action and relief as low/flat as I ever had with the Jamerson set. It pretty much offset the stiffness that worries everyone.

Jamersons with the action way low, playing with a lighter touch and the amp cranked yielded great results.

 

[GregC]

I'm thinking about finally taking the plunge on these. The gauges of the FS set match those of the Sunbeams I've been using on most of my basses.

Unfortunately, Elderly looks to have raised the prices on all the DTF sets (except for the Jamerson set) from $29 to $36, so I'll be shopping around.