Laguna burger build

[dwizum]

I see the battery and the pots in your sketch but I don't see the pcb for the preamp?

Consider knob placement in terms of nearness to the strings, too. I tend to play with my hand open and pretty low on the bass. Controls that are too close to the strings kinda get in the way! Lining the knobs up towards the outside curve of the body and putting the battery (and preamp) on the inner side of the cavity will help keep the knobs further from the strings.

 

[RichterScale]

I only play fingers and my hand doesn't venture too far.
The way it used to be, the first 2 knobs were slightly closer to the strings than they would be in the straight line config.
You can see the preamp board in the wire mess pic. They basically just have laying loosely on the the back of the pots, with a piece of foam stuck to it so it doesn't rattle against the cover.

 

[Reedt2000]

I'm with @dwizum

I'd lay those knobs out following the line of the lower bout. Not only is a bit more functional, but with the sweeping curves in that body it looks better (IMHO)

 

[RichterScale]

I agree. I think it would look much better in a curve.
The problem is, once I start messing with wires, my brain switches to mechanical and straight lines. I have a hard time marrying the artistic curved lines with electronics. I'm sure there's a name for whatever condition compartmentalizes a brain.
I have to keep working on it.
It's going to be a big mini project, within the project.

 

[dwizum]

If we can keep dictating your build, I would suggest making the compartment large enough for the pcb to have it's own real estate vs just being flopped in there on top of the pots. It'll give you more room to have a neat layout, and it'll give you vertical space above the pots if/when you ever decide to change things up (like, swap to a push/pull pot to coil tap one of the pickups).

 

[RichterScale]

I was thinking the same thing.
Well, I am now. I honestly wasn't thinking about the pcb when I was doodling earlier.
And don't think of it as dictating.
I'm asking for input because of all the things I might not be thinking about.
A lot of times I've already thought of the things mentioned and simply choose my way because I'm a weirdo.
But a lot of times, you guys point out or mention things I didn't consider.
So, by all means, give input.

 

[RichterScale]

Set up the resaw blade and cool blocks. My first time resawing on a band saw and first time working with mahogany. From here on out, it will never quite feel the same.

 

[RichterScale]

I also added some pieces of door sweep to the planing jig. It worked really well. First time I've ever used a router and myself and the entire space wasn't covered in router dust.

 

[RichterScale]

Submitting a new control cavity layout for review.
I want to buy or make a battery holder with spring tabs instead of the snap-on connector. Like in my stud finder. Then I can put a removal strap under it.
I checked in the old cavity and there's plenty of room to stand the pcb up.

 

[dwizum]

Looking good!

Are those circles the size of the pot cases? Make sure you have room for the terminals too. It looks like you probably do, though it'll be tight.

For the pickup wire channels - it looks like you have them coming in right on either end of the pcb. Make sure there's wiggle room to actually get them in there without the pcb blocking things. I've had basses where the wires enter the cavity in really frustrating places, it's no fun.

If I had that drawing on my work bench and was considering using it for a cavity, I would be tempted to add just a hair more width (move the long straight wall towards the pickups) and maybe half an inch more length (extend the leftmost end towards the neck and use a tighter radius on that corner) to give enough room for wiring without feeling cramped.

Or, ditch the "ledge" you have all the way around the outside edge, and use magnets instead of screws. You can get by with three posts for magnets instead of the 5 screws you're showing. That takes up a lot less space. I like to position the magnets with two on one side and one on the other, and no magnets near either end of the cavity - with the magnets positioned like that and no ledge around the perimeter, you push down on either extreme end of the cavity to tilt it and release the opposite magnet, then you can grab it and pull it off.

 

[Beej]

First time I've ever used a router and myself and the entire space wasn't covered in router dust.
View attachment 4215157 View attachment 4215158 View attachment 4215159

Well one of us is doing something wrong then, because after the simplest task with the router, I'm usually covered in from head to toe

 

[RichterScale]

Are those circles the size of the pot cases?
You can get by with three posts for magnets instead of the 5 screws you're showing.

I traced the knobs but they're only a hair bigger than the pots.
Speaking of magnets, I just used a cutoff from the walnut and resawed veneer for the headstock. I was all giddy like a little kid and thinking cool, I can totally make a matching mahogany cavity cover?
But, I cut the walnut so thin that it curled up a little.
How thick do you cut your covers so that they don't warp when using just magnets? Or do you laminate the wood with something?

 

[Matt Liebenau]

I also added some pieces of door sweep to the planing jig. It worked really well. First time I've ever used a router and myself and the entire space wasn't covered in router dust.
View attachment 4215157 View attachment 4215158 View attachment 4215159

That, sir, is a very stealable idea and I shall have to try and remember “door sweeps” next time I am lurking about a big boxy type building.

 

[RichterScale]

That, sir, is a very stealable idea and I shall have to try and remember “door sweeps” next time I am lurking about a big boxy type building.

I've had a few pieces of that at work for probably 10 yrs. Finally used it for something. But I'm sure they still sell it at any box store. Try to get the softest bristles possible. And CA glue the ends after you cut it so the bristles don't keep pulling out of the ends.

 

[Beej]

I traced the knobs but they're only a hair bigger than the pots.
Speaking of magnets, I just used a cutoff from the walnut and resawed veneer for the headstock. I was all giddy like a little kid and thinking cool, I can totally make a matching mahogany cavity cover?
But, I cut the walnut so thin that it curled up a little.
How thick do you cut your covers so that they don't warp when using just magnets? Or do you laminate the wood with something?

For most wood covers I use 3.5mm, or a hair over 1/8". If it's something punky or softer, I'll laminate a thinner veneer to a piece of pickguard material and then thickness sand the veneer down to the final thickness after it's glued up.

 

[RichterScale]

I just realized that I have the book matched other half of mahogany that I can cut a cover from, so

 

[Gary_M]

Submitting a new control cavity layout for review.
I want to buy or make a battery holder with spring tabs instead of the snap-on connector. Like in my stud finder. Then I can put a removal strap under it.
I checked in the old cavity and there's plenty of room to stand the pcb up.
View attachment 4215182 View attachment 4215183

That layout is similar to the cavity that I made for my 5 string project. I used wired battery connectors, but no removal straps. (I'll probably add them later) Everything is snug and held very securely. Placing the batteries on their side saves a little bit of room, I think.

 

[RichterScale]

Wow, that's nice

 

[RichterScale]

my 5 string project.

Is there a build thread for that bass?
Could you kindly help enable my laziness and post a link to it?

 

[Gary_M]

Is there a build thread for that bass?
Could you kindly help enable my laziness and post a link to it?

Sure, I'm nothing if not an enabler.
Five string neck through build