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Laguna burger build

Epoxy is what I use. I stay away from the 5 minute stuff, and you don't have to clamp as hard as with titebond joints.

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A " shinto " is a shinto.
The one with the handle is also 2 sided.
(Coarse/fine) the handle flips around.
(I think)
I got the straight 9 inch like i posted above.
I didn't think the handle looked all that ergonomic
As a follow up:
Yes, the one with the planer handle thingy is double sided, coarse and fine.
Yes, the handle is not ergonomic and a PITA.
But, they didn't have the regular handled one. In fact, that was the only one they had. They sold me the display model.
I found myself using it without the handle. I'm sure some type of modification is in order.
Possibly an adapter for the reciprocating saw? :eyebrow:
 
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As a follow up:
Yes, the one with the planer handle thingy is double sided, coarse and fine.
Yes, the handle is not ergonomic and a PITA.
But, they didn't have the regular handled one. In fact, that was the only one they had. They sold me the display model.
I found myself using it without the handle. I'm sure some type of modification is in order.
Possibly an adapter for the reciprocating saw? :eyebrow:
That is quite possibly much more genius than it appears at first glance. :cigar:
 
I managed to glue the wing halves together, reduce their thickness by 2mm, get them jointed and get the cavity carved out.
I'm disappointed with how rough the battery box turned out, but I decided that I'm just happy I made this far without any major drama or damage.
So I'm calling it acceptable.
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Actually had to read that a few times before the penny dropped, I was thinking "surely he was supposed to glue the wings to the neck beam not to each other?!"
:banghead: :laugh:
 
While you were all away, I made a quick and dirty fingerboard radiusing jig for my little router, cut off (2) 3"x 27" blanks that look like I can get a total of 6 wenge boards from, jointed the neck and snuck into the HS and hit the wings on the spindle sander. The rest I will do by hand.
Hoping to have the wings shaped, glued up and old fingerboard off over the weekend. Time to order a fret saw, wire and figure out inlays.
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I grabbed a small Japanese flush cut saw from HF the other day. The blade is .025 and the kerf varies from .033-.039. It cuts a slot .040".
Dunlop wire tang width is either .020 or .024, Jescar wire averages .020 and Stewmac's stuff is .023.
Seeing how thin this flush cut saw is, all I can think is holy crap, a fret saw with a .020 kerf must be paper thin!
Do the Japanese style fret saws break teeth often? Do you have to be extra careful/gentle with them?
I'm a little worried about spending $60 on one.