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Laguna burger build
- Thread starter RichterScale
- Start date
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,011
- 1
- 31,719
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
That's an excellent and prudent idea. Lots of us have done it. Not me personally, of course. I'm much too cavalier for such sensibility!
Now I just need to go to town on carving and see how this feels.
This whole thing is an experiment, but this will be the bass I play while/if I'm making other basses. So I want it to be comfy. The upper horn is already a little weird. Sticks in my chest in the sitting position. But it still needs to be rounded off. It's not longer than the original, but it's further from the neck.
I like the look a lot. But I may have to finesse a few measurements.
I wanted to do a 1" mahogany core and 1/2" walnut top, but I'm going to wait and see how steep the final forearm bevel needs to be. I want the whole top to be walnut, so I may have to do the body half&half.
This whole thing is an experiment, but this will be the bass I play while/if I'm making other basses. So I want it to be comfy. The upper horn is already a little weird. Sticks in my chest in the sitting position. But it still needs to be rounded off. It's not longer than the original, but it's further from the neck.
I like the look a lot. But I may have to finesse a few measurements.
I wanted to do a 1" mahogany core and 1/2" walnut top, but I'm going to wait and see how steep the final forearm bevel needs to be. I want the whole top to be walnut, so I may have to do the body half&half.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,011
- 1
- 31,719
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Looks good 
You could start running progressively larger round overs on the upper horn to see if it gets more comfortable as you go. I'd suspect it wants to be pretty rounded and smooth so you don't get it digging in when it contacts your chest.
You could start running progressively larger round overs on the upper horn to see if it gets more comfortable as you go. I'd suspect it wants to be pretty rounded and smooth so you don't get it digging in when it contacts your chest.
I drew some guide lines and I'll work in progression like you said. If I find myself taking off too much, I'll try to modify the shape.
Seeing how its only pine (and very low quality at that), I think I can work the rough shape with 60-80 grit and some drywall rasps I have.
Is there a universal agreement on a nice wood rasp that everyone likes?
I'll need to get one.
Seeing how its only pine (and very low quality at that), I think I can work the rough shape with 60-80 grit and some drywall rasps I have.
Is there a universal agreement on a nice wood rasp that everyone likes?
I'll need to get one.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,011
- 1
- 31,719
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Rôckhewer
Commercial User
- Feb 28, 2015
- 2,922
- 9,028
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- Owner/Builder- RockHewer Custom Guitars LLC
Gotcha.
Shinto brand.
Do they make several styles of rasp?
Is the style in the pic the best overall style, if I were to start with just one rasp?
(I'm assuming they cost 1 billion dollars)
Shinto brand.
Do they make several styles of rasp?
Is the style in the pic the best overall style, if I were to start with just one rasp?
(I'm assuming they cost 1 billion dollars)
Rôckhewer
Commercial User
- Feb 28, 2015
- 2,922
- 9,028
- Disclosures
- Owner/Builder- RockHewer Custom Guitars LLC
Shinto's are great... but...
There is no... "one rasp to rule them all ".
Word on the streets is ... these are pretty cool too.
I'm seriously thinking about investing.
I just watched a vid and the 2 sided shinto seems like a pretty wonderful invention.
My local Rockler only has the 1 sided version with the planer handle in stock.
I wanted to ask and make sure that if I order a "Shinto saw rasp" online, I'm getting the real deal, regardless of where I order from.
For now, I have a 4-way file, some older rasps and a roll of 4" 80 grit that I can make different sanding blocks for.
I'm in good shape to work that crap pine down. The resaw blade is scheduled for delivery on Thurs. If I can get a Shinto here by Fri, I'll be in good shape for the weekend.
My local Rockler only has the 1 sided version with the planer handle in stock.
I wanted to ask and make sure that if I order a "Shinto saw rasp" online, I'm getting the real deal, regardless of where I order from.
For now, I have a 4-way file, some older rasps and a roll of 4" 80 grit that I can make different sanding blocks for.
I'm in good shape to work that crap pine down. The resaw blade is scheduled for delivery on Thurs. If I can get a Shinto here by Fri, I'll be in good shape for the weekend.
Rôckhewer
Commercial User
- Feb 28, 2015
- 2,922
- 9,028
- Disclosures
- Owner/Builder- RockHewer Custom Guitars LLC
A " shinto " is a shinto.
The one with the handle is also 2 sided.
(Coarse/fine) the handle flips around.
(I think)
I got the straight 9 inch like i posted above.
I didn't think the handle looked all that ergonomic
The one with the handle is also 2 sided.
(Coarse/fine) the handle flips around.
(I think)
I got the straight 9 inch like i posted above.
I didn't think the handle looked all that ergonomic
Shinto does make at least two versions of the rasp - one has two handles, which is kinda nice. But the "normal" single handled version is really good too, and cheaper.
Those razor files are awesome though. My favorite carving tool. You can find them elsewhere for cheaper under the brand name Iwasaki. They make a variety of sizes and shapes.
Those razor files are awesome though. My favorite carving tool. You can find them elsewhere for cheaper under the brand name Iwasaki. They make a variety of sizes and shapes.
Do it! Then report back on how they are.
This is really my first time working with hardwood besides oak. And I've never really done much in the way of carving, so I've never had wood files. Just the 4-way and I've only used that maybe a dozen times in 20 yrs.
99% of my files are for metal work. I had a wood rasp 2 lifetimes ago, it had a handle like a plane. But pretty much any woodwork I've done over the years got finished with sanding blocks.
I feel like I've been in a cave. I've never seen half the woodworking hand tools you guys use, let alone the luthiery tools. I had no idea Rockler existed or that they had stores all over. When I found it, you woulda thought I stumbled into El Dorado.
I guess I've been able to accomplish everything with big box tools and stock. A lifetime of overachievement.
No wonder my back and shoulders are shot.
I do plan to have a pole barn that at least 1/3 is dedicated as a small shop. I wanted to get started on it in the present, thinking I would use a lot of the lumber on the new property to build furniture, bird houses, etc.
I guess I can add basses to the list now. I guess my point is, I was going to eventually have to learn about and invest in a ton of these tools at some point anyway. At least I'll have a head start on a few things and have a nice collection going before the barn goes up (and I'm probably still a good 15 yrs from retirement, so I have time to set myself up for that). I'd also like to collect really old hand tools. Not really to use, just collect. I had a few that were my father's that I had since I was about 8. And they were before his time too. The first drill I used was one of those egg beater style hand drills that held the bits in the handle. Unfortunately they went missing a while back.
My problem is,..... I don't have a frikkin barn yet and nowhere to keep all these tools you mooyuks keep making me buy!
Not sure how much of that was relatable or relevant to the conversation (I get chatty and rambly when I'm medicated).
I tossed the parchment paper in my work bag, Gonna trace my guidelines tomorrow before I start carving. Just realized I'd have no reference for the real body if I carve that all up and like how it turns out.
Also decided to do the body top half walnut and back half mahogany. That way I'll have a centerline to work towards on all the carving and I can keep the whole top walnut. Plus, I'll only have to resaw the mahogany and I just have to plane the walnut.
I tossed the parchment paper in my work bag, Gonna trace my guidelines tomorrow before I start carving. Just realized I'd have no reference for the real body if I carve that all up and like how it turns out.
Also decided to do the body top half walnut and back half mahogany. That way I'll have a centerline to work towards on all the carving and I can keep the whole top walnut. Plus, I'll only have to resaw the mahogany and I just have to plane the walnut.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,011
- 1
- 31,719
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
It’s fun to watch you blossom, grasshopper. 
Rôckhewer
Commercial User
- Feb 28, 2015
- 2,922
- 9,028
- Disclosures
- Owner/Builder- RockHewer Custom Guitars LLC
Bravo.
You're not done tho... right? Keep going.
It's only practice wood.
Suggestions?
...make that treble side cutaway swoop in deeper...
(Better access)
And maybe thin the girth of the entire upper horn, ...ever so slightly... and / or.. increase the size of the forearm bevel and taper it more into the waist & about halfway up into the horn
(... 'twill grant a "slimmer'' figure ).
....(imho)
You're not done tho... right? Keep going.
It's only practice wood.
Suggestions?
...make that treble side cutaway swoop in deeper...
(Better access)
And maybe thin the girth of the entire upper horn, ...ever so slightly... and / or.. increase the size of the forearm bevel and taper it more into the waist & about halfway up into the horn
(... 'twill grant a "slimmer'' figure ).
....(imho)
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