- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,011
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- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
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Laguna burger build
- Thread starter RichterScale
- Start date
12" compound miter. 
I brought it to work because we only have a 10" chop saw and I needed to make some lap joints in 2x4s.
It got to be after 2pm and I heard they let all the teachers leave at 2 because there's no kids on Wednesdays.
So, it was too late to head over and use table saw at the HS shop.
I finished up what I was doing for the day, looked at my big 12" sliding chop saw and thought,.... Hmmmmm,.... I wonder.....
I double checked everything for square, screwed a backer board on the bass, square to the cut and Bob's yer uncle.
I brought it to work because we only have a 10" chop saw and I needed to make some lap joints in 2x4s.
It got to be after 2pm and I heard they let all the teachers leave at 2 because there's no kids on Wednesdays.
So, it was too late to head over and use table saw at the HS shop.
I finished up what I was doing for the day, looked at my big 12" sliding chop saw and thought,.... Hmmmmm,.... I wonder.....
I double checked everything for square, screwed a backer board on the bass, square to the cut and Bob's yer uncle.
I was actually debating whether or not to mention it.
It is absolutely not something I would suggest or recommend.
It is absolutely not something I would suggest or recommend.
12" compound miter!! 
That'll never work...
That'll never work...
I'm more of a stunt carpenter.
Definitely don't try that at home.
Definitely don't try that at home.
I need to not get excited and jump too far ahead. Before I do anything else, I need to make a resaw jig and a router sled.
I also need to see how much resaw blades cost and determine if I should get one for the smaller band saw at the HS shop, or fix up the old big saw in the basement in my bldg and get a blade for that. If the smaller saw can handle a 6" board, I'd rather go that route.
I also need to see how much resaw blades cost and determine if I should get one for the smaller band saw at the HS shop, or fix up the old big saw in the basement in my bldg and get a blade for that. If the smaller saw can handle a 6" board, I'd rather go that route.
I joke around a lot, but I really want to take a minute to clarify a few things, for anyone checking out this thread down the road:
I'm not a luthier or even a finish carpenter. This is my first attempt at this level of work on an instrument. This thread is for entertainment, documentation and for me to learn a thing or 2 from the experience and community input. Though I have limited to no experience with many of the tools used by many folks on this forum, I do have a boat load of experience with rough carpentry tools like circ saws, chop saws, etc.
My big miter saw was fastened to the bench, the work was clamped to the saw and I double checked everything several times. Even with my level of comfort and experience on a tool like that, I was extremely careful and measured and idiot checked everything 12 times.
I can't stress this enough: this is NOT a how-to thread and I do NOT recommend anyone ever attempt to cut the wings off their instrument with a chop saw.
I'm not a luthier or even a finish carpenter. This is my first attempt at this level of work on an instrument. This thread is for entertainment, documentation and for me to learn a thing or 2 from the experience and community input. Though I have limited to no experience with many of the tools used by many folks on this forum, I do have a boat load of experience with rough carpentry tools like circ saws, chop saws, etc.
My big miter saw was fastened to the bench, the work was clamped to the saw and I double checked everything several times. Even with my level of comfort and experience on a tool like that, I was extremely careful and measured and idiot checked everything 12 times.
I can't stress this enough: this is NOT a how-to thread and I do NOT recommend anyone ever attempt to cut the wings off their instrument with a chop saw.
Take the warnings about wenge wanting to splinter and stab you and infect the stab wounds seriously. It is NOT a pleasant wood to work with.
@TerribleTim68 also has some choice descriptive terminology for it.
@TerribleTim68 also has some choice descriptive terminology for it.
I plan to burn incense and offer it a blood sacrifice before working with it
What I wanna know is,
what alien technology did they use to cut that stuff into veneer that was less than 1/16" thick?!?
How is that even possible?
what alien technology did they use to cut that stuff into veneer that was less than 1/16" thick?!?
How is that even possible?
Giant knives, big rotating logs shoved into giant knives like a pencil sharpener.
The more you know....
The more you know....
If the "small" saw at your HS is the one you posted photos of a few pages ago, which looked like a 14" iron delta clone, it will resaw 6" fine. Especially if we're talking about straight grained, defect-free walnut and mahogany. Correct blade, correct tension, good setup on the saw (everything is square, guides set correctly, tires are in good shape). But heck, if you have a bigger bandsaw available too it's probably worth checking out. Personally, I would probably choose based on overall condition of each saw. You don't want to be trying to learn to resaw on a saw that's half worn out or full of mysteries.
I am currently in love with the wood slicer blades from Highland. There are a few other shops making blades with the same stock under different names. I buy them from JIS engineering, they're a lot cheaper but shipping is really high so it only makes sense if you're buying many of them at once. They cut nice and straight, have a narrow kerf, and leave a pretty clean surface.
That said, you may be able to resaw well enough for your purposes with whatever blades are on either of those saws, if they're in good condition. A smaller blade will wander more, and it'll load up if you move too fast, but if you're planning on taking off some thickness after sawing anyways, and want to save the money on a dedicated blade you'll only use twice, it is something to consider. If I have a smaller blade on my saw and I just need to resaw one or two pieces, and I don't care about a little waste, I just have at it. The resaw blade only goes on if I don't want waste, if I'm going to cut tricky woods, or if I'm doing a big job like sawing a whole board up for ukulele tops or something.
I am currently in love with the wood slicer blades from Highland. There are a few other shops making blades with the same stock under different names. I buy them from JIS engineering, they're a lot cheaper but shipping is really high so it only makes sense if you're buying many of them at once. They cut nice and straight, have a narrow kerf, and leave a pretty clean surface.
That said, you may be able to resaw well enough for your purposes with whatever blades are on either of those saws, if they're in good condition. A smaller blade will wander more, and it'll load up if you move too fast, but if you're planning on taking off some thickness after sawing anyways, and want to save the money on a dedicated blade you'll only use twice, it is something to consider. If I have a smaller blade on my saw and I just need to resaw one or two pieces, and I don't care about a little waste, I just have at it. The resaw blade only goes on if I don't want waste, if I'm going to cut tricky woods, or if I'm doing a big job like sawing a whole board up for ukulele tops or something.
I was looking at the pics in my phone last night. I forgot that I took one.And it's done! Did you make the routing templates first?
I went down to the basement to evaluate the situation. It's a 14" Delta. Just a smidge over 6" of clearance (the one at the HS shop looked a little smaller, but I didn't measure). The blade is old and worn and the tires are loaded with crap. But I think with a little TLC, a new blade and a resaw jig, I should be in good shape.
Now I just have to find a good blade for a decent price.
That blade looks like someone tried to cut a file with it. 
Crap on the tires isn't a big deal. The real test is if the blade rides at the crown like it's supposed to. As the tires wear out, the blade will start to wander off center and it won't track straight.
Crap on the tires isn't a big deal. The real test is if the blade rides at the crown like it's supposed to. As the tires wear out, the blade will start to wander off center and it won't track straight.
1/2" x 93-1/2" blade for $30+ $8 shipping from Highland sounds a lot better than $150 for the Laguna blade from Rockler.
This is why I worked out of my truck with my personal tools for so long.
We can't have anything nice around here. I'm surprised none of the maint crew here hasn't lost a finger or eye yet.
That Laguna blade is carbide tipped. I'm sure it's a great blade but totally overkill for what you're doing. You could probably resaw enough bookmatched tops for a couple dozen basses with the Highland blade, before it was even close to worn out.
Take your blade off when you're not using it - it's really easy to ruin a resaw blade by trying to cut curves with it!
Take your blade off when you're not using it - it's really easy to ruin a resaw blade by trying to cut curves with it!
Oh, that blade will be off before the last bits of sawdust hit the floor.
They broke the switch on the table saw, they broke the fence on their chop saw, the bench grinder stone wasn't mounted right and wobbled like a giant vibrator,..... I could go on for hours.
If I have to do anything around here that requires more than basic,cheap tools, I bring my stuff in from home. And if I leave it here for a few days, I hide it when I leave for the night.
They broke the switch on the table saw, they broke the fence on their chop saw, the bench grinder stone wasn't mounted right and wobbled like a giant vibrator,..... I could go on for hours.
If I have to do anything around here that requires more than basic,cheap tools, I bring my stuff in from home. And if I leave it here for a few days, I hide it when I leave for the night.
This bass hasn't been played in a decade. Now that it's all apart and I can't play it, I really want to play it!
Plus, nice weather is around the corner and that means tons of chores and work and less time for bass building/playing. I really want to get this thing done and see how it plays/feels.
I need to be careful though and keep reminding myself not to rush. I already know how that works out.
I also need to focus. I keep day dreaming about the next 2 basses I want to build and I don't even have a band saw blade yet.
Btw, I really like the blue stain look and want to do a bass with a blue theme. I also want to do something in a dark, natural carved top. Something with a sea turtle/tiki/Hawaiian theme.
Plus, nice weather is around the corner and that means tons of chores and work and less time for bass building/playing. I really want to get this thing done and see how it plays/feels.
I need to be careful though and keep reminding myself not to rush. I already know how that works out.
I also need to focus. I keep day dreaming about the next 2 basses I want to build and I don't even have a band saw blade yet.
Btw, I really like the blue stain look and want to do a bass with a blue theme. I also want to do something in a dark, natural carved top. Something with a sea turtle/tiki/Hawaiian theme.
