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Laguna burger build

#141

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#143
RichterScale said:
It's a 14" Delta. Just a smidge over 6" of clearance (the one at the HS shop looked a little smaller, but I didn't measure).
Click to expand...
They should both be the same.
Neither one is equipped with the 6 inch riser block that takes the cuttable height up to 12" ... and then requires a 105" blade.
They sell riser block kits for the Jet for 100 bucks.
It's evidently harder to find a riser for an old Delta.
But other brand blocks can be converted to work (reposition guide pins).
... if you ever need more than 6 inches.

But... if that Delta is only 3/4 hp... 6 inches is all she's ever gonna want to take anyway :confused:
 
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#144
My 14" delta has the riser block kit, but also a much larger motor, which really makes a much bigger difference to the performance than just the riser block. Honestly it's probably not worth adding the riser without a motor upgrade. :)

I can't remember who posted it but someone posted a pic of a giant resawing bandsaw with like a 4" wide resaw blade. There was a question posed to the owner of the saw, how often do you have to replace the blade? The answer was something like, "I've never noticed, it has a 10HP motor." :D With 10hp or thereabouts, you could probably resaw with just a smooth piece of metal for a blade :smug:
 
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#150
I waited until everyone was gone for the day, recruited some help and rescued the Delta from the basement.
I'm going to let it sit for the weekend and get acclimated to it's new environment. Better lighting, climate controlled, other tools around, etc.
I'll start it's rehabilitation on Mon.
Ordering a new blade in a few.
I was able to sneak a peak at the motor with my phone. It's a 1 horse. Should be plenty.
If I need more, I'll fab up a PTO attachment and run it off the tractor.
 
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#152
On a saw that's borderline or unknown in terms of setup/maintenance/power/etc it's probably easier to use a bar than an actual fence. Commercial bars are usually a length of 1" or so diameter steel rod that bolts standing vertically to the front of the fence, it gives you a rounded vertical surface so you can keep the piece true vertically but still pivot to correct for blade drift. With a fence, you get what you get - but with a bar, you can correct as you go. You could make one by finding a nice true piece of maple dowel and screwing it to one of those angles.
 
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#156
that roller guide kit is worth every penny. The problem is that it's not my saw. Eventually I will have my own band saw and if I can't manage a new one and find a decent used one, I will definitely want it set up right and upgraded.
Who knows, maybe I can get them to cough up a few $100 to go through and upgrade some of the nicer tools we've had laying around for 20 years. I'll have to think of a diplomatic way to approach it, rather than my typical, "hey stupid"....
I did notice that the Delta already has the quick release tension handle. It's an early 2000's model and I know it was never worked on or upgraded by anyone at the school. The one in this vid is a 90s model and needed the upgrade. I also know it has thrust bearing wheels, but I think it has block side guides. I'll check again on Monday. Maybe there's a smaller kit for it that just upgrades the blocks(?)
 
#160
I cleaned up the Delta, cleaned the tires and I'm going to order the cool blocks for $16.
There's a new 1/2" blade in the basement. I'm gonna throw that on and cut my body wings out of 2x4 scraps. Since this is my first time making a body, I figure I can use the pine scrap wings to make sure horn length is good, test out forearm cut away (or if I need one), test the shape of the cut away on the back side, etc.
I want to make sure I'm happy with the shape and how everything fits before I start hacking away at the mahogany and walnut.
Anyone every tried making a test body out of scrap or pine for a new design?
 
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