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Lakland Owners Group #55!

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Here is a sneak peak of my work in progress 2010 44-60. I am eagerly awaiting for the delivery of 2 pick-guards I ordered from Jeannie's, a clear and black pearl. I am 90% certain this bass will sport the clear guard. Once the guards are in, she's getting shipped to Carl P. for a few mods. I'll post a complete list of what I did and what Carl did when I get her back....till then here is a peek snap shot Sorry for the crappy iPhone pic.

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Kinetic Shadow said:
So basically you want me to wring it's neck for getting out of line? All the whilst yelling "Why I otta..."

Actually saw this method described elsewhere here on TB, may give it a try at some point. Just seems sad to have to do this to a Lakland - just sayin' especially since it was already back at the mother ship under warranty for a pickup issue late last year and this wasn't spotted.

Hoping it's just a string tension issue as Nat mentioned.

It's probably just shifted due to normal circumstances. Personally, I prefer a little wiggle room since the bridges don't allow for spacing adjustment.

I saw recently and HAVE seen MANY high dollar instruments w/ this issue... as long as a shift fixes it, I wouldn't think negatively toward Lakland for it. If it DOESN'T fix it..... well, I'd call 'em.
 
Kinetic Shadow said:
I decided to take a look at the nut, neck, bridge and strings a bit more closely, so I took out a set of digital calipers and measured the distance from the outside of the E and G strings to the edge of the fretboard from nut to heel.

I found that the distance from the E to the edge was consistently 12/64" and the G to the edge was 8/64" all the way down.

In the process of doing this as I got to the heel on the G side I happened to notice that the saddle for the G string was slightly misaligned in that it was pointing out to a minor degree. I loosened the string and then pushed it back flush against the D saddle, tuned back up to pitch and remeasured.

The result is that the G string is now 10/64" from nut to heel. I ran through the progressions that previously would result in the G slipping off the board and found that the string was now staying on the fretboard. Hopefully this has fixed the issue. :hyper:

I will still be putting the Cobalts on later this week and will report back on those separately. Thanks for everyone's suggestions and helpful hints, very much appreciated.

Oh.... :-D. Sweet!
 
Only six posts? Maaan, I need to get back in the game.
I have the same problem as Black Bart sometimes - more than once I've felt my G-string slip. (Badum-TISH)

But it only happens to me around the 7th fret, and it's always been down to overexcited/sloppy technique. Annoying though.
On the topic of strings, am I the only one around here who uses Rotosound roundwounds? I appreciate that they're waaaaay too bright when they're brand new, but after a week or so playing every day they really bed in and sound good. I've had the same strings on for a while now. Don't worry, I do change them every so often - just isn't all that necessary for what I do!

Another thing you lakland aficionados can help me with, and this is a serious problem with my Darryl Jones.

When I try and play slap bass, there's the most awful 'clack' as I hit the E string. It's less noticable on the A string, the D and G strings are fine. It's also less noticable on the bridge pickup.

I'm wondering if it's a setup issue? The three possibilities that I can see are 1)relief, 2) string height, and 3)pickup height.

I've set the pickup heights according to the lakland spec, the strings are about as low as they can go without buzzing. In fact, even though I don't have the necessary tools, I set the bass up according to the carl pedigo video. Fingerstyle is immense, there's SOME buzzing playing with a pick as well though. I'm just praying to God that it's not a neck relief issue.
Any other suggestions/ideas on what i should do?

Much appreciated!

Cheers,
SoundSupport
 
well, I now own this bad chadwick:
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2011 Inca Silver 44-64 custom. Only had it a couple of days and I haven't even had a chance to play it amplified, but me likey

Picture is from the seller, I'll be adding my own eventually:D
 
It's probably just shifted due to normal circumstances. Personally, I prefer a little wiggle room since the bridges don't allow for spacing adjustment.

I saw recently and HAVE seen MANY high dollar instruments w/ this issue... as long as a shift fixes it, I wouldn't think negatively toward Lakland for it. If it DOESN'T fix it..... well, I'd call 'em.

Don't get me wrong, I wasn't disparaging the Lakland, I just didn't want to have to do this to a Lakland. :)
 
Ok, tech question for the Lakland familia...

How difficult would it be to add a 5 position knob and re-route the preamp so the knob can act as a mid selector switch rather than opening up the back of my 55-94?
 
Ok, tech question for the Lakland familia...

How difficult would it be to add a 5 position knob and re-route the preamp so the knob can act as a mid selector switch rather than opening up the back of my 55-94?

Not real sure on the level of difficulty on a job like like this, but I'm with ya on the toppin the top to switch the switch.

I'll be installing a, wait for it... Audere classic 4 band in the 44-07 in my family portrait above to avoid this procedure & put all low/hi mid adjustments at my fingertips.
 
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