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Lakland Owners Group #69

It feedbacks, so I couldn't use it with loud bands. But tone wise it covers a lot of ground.

Can’t dispute your lived experience, but….

My band’s pretty damn loud. Onstage last week playing right in front of an 810e/V-4B and carrying the room without FOH support, feedback wasn’t a problem. If I added fuzz+octave, I had to take care. It was tiiiiny smidge more susceptible than my center-blocked Casady. But no deal-breaker at all.
 
Stay patient and the universe will unite you with one, eventually.
That's right! After wanting one since the very first mention in BassPlayer way back when, I finally scored HB27 a year ago this month. It is magnificent in every way and quickly became my favorite, though my 4-94 would get the touring nod if only for durability. Feedback is manageable and fun (and musically useful).
4A80ED73-DEAB-4F5E-9E99-F95AF3CDFF29-2854-000003CE16BF077E.jpeg
 
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Not to take away from the hobo love but can you believe the condition of these screws from the jack plate of my 55-02? The first one was really hard to remove and came out all rusty. The second one snapped clean off so now I'm trying to figure out how to remove the rest of the screw from the body. Not sure how or why the screws would rust out inside the body like this. Seriously, nothing is ever easy.

tempImageqU6TU1.png
 
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Not to take away from the hobo love but can you believe the condition of these screws from the jack plate of my 55-02? The first one was really hard to remove and came out all rusty. The second one snapped clean off so now I'm trying to figure out how to remove the rest of the screw from the body. Not sure how or why the screws would rust out inside the body like this. Seriously, nothing is ever easy.

View attachment 5289963
Ouch, just ouch!

Unfortunately you'll need to drill it out, fill the hole and re-tap with a new screw.
Are only those 2 screws rusted?
 
Ouch, just ouch!

Unfortunately you'll need to drill it out, fill the hole and re-tap with a new screw.
Are only those 2 screws rusted?

I just removed/replaced most of the hardware in the past week and everything else looks good. The electronics cavity is clean as are the pots so not exactly sure how this could have happened.

The first screw was really hard to break free so I'm curious if it had some type of loctite or other adhesive on them that could have caused this. I've never touched the output jack and have had the bass (from Sweetwater) since 2018. I thought it was a 2016 bass but looking at the s/n indicates it's a 2015. Very curious.
 
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I just removed/replaced most of the hardware in the past week and everything else looks good. The electronics cavity is clean as are the pots so not exactly sure how this could have happened.

The first screw was really hard to break free so I'm curious if it had some type of loctite or other adhesive on them that could have caused this. I've never touched the output jack and have had the bass (from Sweetwater) since 2018. I thought it was a 2016 bass but looking at the s/n indicates it's a 2015. Very curious.
That almost has the appearance of a Liquid Nails type of adhesive. Gorilla Glue perhaps? Someone insuring those dont' come loose I guess. What's the best neck screw glue for metal? Best tone glue? An unfortunate mess to be sure. Good luck.
 
Get a drill bit bushing/guide and some high quality cobalt drill bits, several bits. Luckily, the metal in the screw isn’t super hard. So it shouldn’t be difficult to drill out. Staying on center will be your biggest challenge, hence the drill bit guide/bushing.
Can also attempt the old modified/sharpened brass tubing technique. Find the size slightly lightly larger than the screw diameter, file a sharpened sawtooth the cutting end, pop into a drill and remove the slightest bit of material around the screw, then pull the screw free. You will have a cleaner hole to then plug, and avoid the risk of slipping drill bits bunging up the wood if it slips off the screw when trying to center drill it. I keep a variety of brass tubing on hand for such things. Radily available at most hardware and hobby supply stores.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Ro...17-a249-57b031544b42&pd_rd_i=B07VPWSJRC&psc=1
 
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Can also attempt the old modified/sharpened brass tubing technique. Find the size slightly lightly larger than the screw diameter, file a sharpened sawtooth the cutting end, pop into a drill and remove the slightest bit of material around the screw, then pull the screw free. You will have a cleaner hole to then plug, and avoid the risk of slipping drill bits bunging up the wood if it slips off the screw when trying to center drill it. I keep a variety of brass tubing on hand for such things. Radily available at most hardware and hobby supply stores.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Ro...17-a249-57b031544b42&pd_rd_i=B07VPWSJRC&psc=1

Hmm. Great idea. I like it.
 
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For those of you have replaced pickups and preamp in your 55-02 or 55-94, what did you go with and what were your results like?

so my #1 for a looooong time was a 5594 with Bart pre and SD bass lines. As I’m sure you’re well aware, this was a factory option in the 90’s, into the early 00’s. It is hands down my fav Lakland pup/pre combo. Bar none. It was the perfect amount of aggressiveness vs blending into the mix. It’s the closest you’ll get to a Lakland sounding like a MM for sure. The SD MM pup over powers the J pup. So the MM sig sound just kinda takes predominance no matter the settings. If you’re itching to change your electronics, I’d suggest starting with the pups. The Bart pre just pairs so well with other pups…I’d leave that alone. A pup swap will 100% give you some tonal change. So it makes sense to try pups 1st. I’d wholeheartedly suggest sourcing a 5 string SD baselines MM/J pup set and start there. If you need some audio to hear what I’m talking about. This bass for sale in the classifieds has the same electronics. And the second link is recording a did w my #1 moons ago.

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/1994-lakland-4-94-deluxe-sn-045-demo-vid-added.1632398/

Havana Honey
 
so my #1 for a looooong time was a 5594 with Bart pre and SD bass lines. As I’m sure you’re well aware, this was a factory option in the 90’s, into the early 00’s. It is hands down my fav Lakland pup/pre combo. Bar none. It was the perfect amount of aggressiveness vs blending into the mix. It’s the closest you’ll get to a Lakland sounding like a MM for sure. The SD MM pup over powers the J pup. So the MM sig sound just kinda takes predominance no matter the settings. If you’re itching to change your electronics, I’d suggest starting with the pups. The Bart pre just pairs so well with other pups…I’d leave that alone. A pup swap will 100% give you some tonal change. So it makes sense to try pups 1st. I’d wholeheartedly suggest sourcing a 5 string SD baselines MM/J pup set and start there. If you need some audio to hear what I’m talking about. This bass for sale in the classifieds has the same electronics. And the second link is recording a did w my #1 moons ago.

I agree with this. I commented in that classifieds thread about what a difference those SD pickups make compared to the traditional Bart or Lakland setup. Any idea on which model SD pickups are in that bass? The neck pickup looks like one of their active Basslines pickup but the humbucker looks to be their passive MM type?
 
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For those of you have replaced pickups and preamp in your 55-02 or 55-94, what did you go with and what were your results like?

I have a '98 55-94 that came with the Bartolini setup. Trying to get a little brighter sound, I replaced the preamp with a John East Unipre 5 but left the Bart pickups installed. It was a little more flexible tonally but really still kept the warm smooth Bartolini character. I think most of the character comes from those pickups.

I have since reinstalled the stock preamp...another Bart equipped 5594 reminded me how great of a sound it is. I'll install the Unipre in something else when inspiration hits.

Edit: Added a picture....everybody loves pictures!

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