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Lakland Owners Group #69

#4,424
since the Lakland bridge is so iconic to distinguish the brand, it provides a definite visual clue, much better than the headstock, to distinguish a Lakland from other FSOs (Fender shaped objects). Thus, I've never seen the need or wanted to swap it to something else, like a Babczk (sp?).
 
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#4,425
Robin Ruscio said:
Anyone ever swap the the lakland bridge for a higher mass one? I have a hunch that would make my new 44-02 sound more solid.

I already swapped pickups to Nords, which helped a ton.
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The lakland bridge is actually quite hefty, it's not high mass like a Spector or ABM, but they are close in weight to the Badass II if I remember correctly.

what do you have the mid DIP switches set to? is it "SOUND" solid or "FEEL" Solid that's the missing x factor?
 
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#4,427
OnederTone said:
The lakland bridge is actually quite hefty, it's not high mass like a Spector or ABM, but they are close in weight to the Badass II if I remember correctly.

what do you have the mid DIP switches set to? is it "SOUND" solid or "FEEL" Solid that's the missing x factor?
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Good to know it's already a hefty bridge.

It's the feel and sound. Mines pretty light, at 8.5 lbs, but I haven't felt that way with other light basses of similar woods.

It suspect I'm used to basses with thicker necks and that might be more of a factor.

It's still a great bass, especially for what I have into it.

I don't remember where I put the dip but I tried all of them and used my ear to find a nice mid cut range for slap, which is what I was looking for this bass to do.

Still not in love with the stock pre Either. It's ok but I can think of 3 or 4 others id prefer. I'm not sure if i want to put more into it since I'm not sure it will really be a gig bass for me.
 
#4,428
basspraiser said:
Sorry you are having trouble finding a 55-64! I know there is at least one more order coming in this year (I asked earlier for another LOGger). I know they are popular and pretty much sell out whenever they come in.

The 55-01 is the "entry level" bass so it will always be on the lower end price wise.

As for the "spare parts"....be careful....very careful. As far as I know no one outside of Lakland is authorized to sell spare parts.
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I've changed my mind, 5 string P seems funny to me. Perhaps I'll look for 44-51 as I prefer maple fingerboard and 44-64 with maple is close to impossible to find.

As for 55-01 : the specs (wood, hardware, etc) is nearly identical to 55-02 except for the electronic while LH3 pickups + preamps only cost 182$ in BBG. So what's justify the huge price difference between those 2 models. Or: can electronic upgrade on 55-01 bring it to the level of 55-02 ? Let's say by replace MK-1 to US Barts pickup & preamp.

On part : I dont think those parts are counterfeit but are factory leaks. I bought a bridge for 55-02 and cant tell the difference with the original bridge installed on the bass. I'm aware that it's illegal & if I'm in the US of course I'll contact Lakland to get replacement, but for now I have no choice (the bridge starts to get rusty, need to replace it)

Also, my guitar/bass tech who used to work in Cortek's QC dept told me that time to time the factory intentionally sold non QC passed body blank & neck to cover the loss. It's not surprising as Cort is well known for some of their fishy business practice.
 
#4,430
i2k said:
I've changed my mind, 5 string P seems funny to me. Perhaps I'll look for 44-51 as I prefer maple fingerboard and 44-64 with maple is close to impossible to find.

As for 55-01 : the specs (wood, hardware, etc) is nearly identical to 55-02 except for the electronic while LH3 pickups + preamps only cost 182$ in BBG. So what's justify the huge price difference between those 2 models. Or: can electronic upgrade on 55-01 bring it to the level of 55-02 ? Let's say by replace MK-1 to US Barts pickup & preamp.

On part : I dont think those parts are counterfeit but are factory leaks. I bought a bridge for 55-02 and cant tell the difference with the original bridge installed on the bass. I'm aware that it's illegal & if I'm in the US of course I'll contact Lakland to get replacement, but for now I have no choice (the bridge starts to get rusty, need to replace it)

Also, my guitar/bass tech who used to work in Cortek's QC dept told me that time to time the factory intentionally sold non QC passed body blank & neck to cover the loss. It's not surprising as Cort is well known for some of their fishy business practice.
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Sorry you changed your mind on a 5 string P....I love my (3)...Like a std P with extras!

You can swap the MK-1 and the pickups....Lakland has drop in chisonics which (I hear) are really nice and people mod their -01s all of the time...there are several threads about that. have fun modding it...the results are usually well received.

I thought they might be leaks....either way it is not cool....and not authorized.

any idea why your bridge was rusting? I have not heard of that much with Lakies....
 
#4,431
i2k said:
I've changed my mind, 5 string P seems funny to me.
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They may seem funny but they're no joke! My Skyline 55-64 is one of the best basses I've ever owned.

55-64.jpg


It's become my go-to bass. I like it so much I bought a second.

op3cptxfyrbcom29lwdy.jpg
 
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#4,433
Hi Mark,
Can you tell any difference in tone between maple & rosewood fingerboard? Yesterday I located a store which sells 55-64 very close to US price, perhaps I need to change my mind again!

Hi Doug,
There are many scratch on the bridge. Perhaps the previous owner sweat a lot and never clean the bass plus high humidity. The rust is not much, just disturbing.
 
#4,434
If you have a chrome bridge, you can remove rust/oxidation by doing the following:

Dip a piece of aluminum foil in water (15cm square or 6" square) fold it over a couple of times and polish/rub the chrome with the aluminum foil.

Keep dipping the aluminum foil in water as needed and change to another piece when one wears out. You'll notice a blackish paste develop as you polish, this is good, it means you're removing the oxidation and rust.

When all the rust is gone, rinse with water and dry everything off. To make sure you get all the water out you can use 99% rubbing alcohol to evaporate the remaining moisture.

*Aluminum is softer than chrome and steel so it will not scratch them. Works great for faucets, door knobs, bumpers, etc. as well :)
 
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#4,436
Black Bart said:
If you have a chrome bridge, you can remove rust/oxidation by doing the following:

Dip a piece of aluminum foil in water (15cm square or 6" square) fold it over a couple of times and polish/rub the chrome with the aluminum foil.

Keep dipping the aluminum foil in water as needed and change to another piece when one wears out. You'll notice a blackish paste develop as you polish, this is good, it means you're removing the oxidation and rust.

When all the rust is gone, rinse with water and dry everything off. To make sure you get all the water out you can use 99% rubbing alcohol to evaporate the remaining moisture.

*Aluminum is softer than chrome and steel so it will not scratch them. Works great for faucets, door knobs, bumpers, etc. as well :)
Click to expand...

Wow thanks for the tip. I'm sure my wife will love this too. I'll try tonight to oxydized Geddy Lee JB tuner.
 
#4,438
i2k said:
Hi Mark,
Can you tell any difference in tone between maple & rosewood fingerboard? Yesterday I located a store which sells 55-64 very close to US price, perhaps I need to change my mind again!.
Click to expand...
I don't have the bass with the rosewood board yet. It arrives tomorrow but I'll A / B them and let you know.
 

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