I've used it on several basses and guitars with BEM, RW, ebony and phenolic fretboards for a couple of years with no issues thus far. See tip #2 if the board feels a little too slippery after using it.
Tips:
1. Wear gloves, not because it's toxic. When I sit down to do work on a bass, it's usually more than one thing. Wearing gloves just makes it quicker to move on to the other tasks without having to stop and wash the stuff off my hands. Plus, the oxidation that is on your frets will create a black residue that will get all over your fingers.
2. I use spent dryer sheets to wipe up any excess - they absorb Gorgomyte and also help 'buff' the frets.
3. Cut the Gorgomyte sheets into 2"x2" sections - that's all you really need for one neck. When one side turns completely black, flip it over and use the other side. The dryer sheet(s) will take care of the rest of the black residue.
It also conditions RW and ebony rather nicely.
Thanks for the reply. I've heard Gorgomyte advises to be careful with maple boards that are not finished as it may darken the maple.
Was your experience with unfinished maple like Lakland basses?
I have a bass that has a glossy maple fretboard so I think that should be fine but my others feel either unfinished or have a very thin finish.
