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Leafenbacker
- Thread starter mapleglo
- Start date
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,616
- 222,141
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I couldn't find a font that matches the Rickenbacker logo font. I did a little reading, and saw that the logo was designed by Mrs. Hall, John Hall's mom. On a paper napkin, apparently. Since there's a copywrite/trademark on it, no font exists that is an exact match. I made the Rickenbacker logo in Illustrator, duplicated the "e" and "a", and made up an "L" and "f" in the same style. So yeah, at least the "L" and "f" are Leafenbacker gothic
It turns out there are a few laser engravers here in town. I'll have to look into that.
That's exactly what I was trying to get at, but the picture really shows it. It would look perfect
Work on the a's a bit. Looks like Leofenbacker. I know you are modeling it on the Ric script, and you have both a's the same, but for some reason, the first a doesn't read as an a. It's a typography thing.
That Rickenbacker script was not a real typographical font designed by a real graphic designer anyway. Someone at the company, maybe FC Hall's wife, just made it up. That Rickenbacker script fails at several levels, especially the two c's that look like r's. But people recognize it instantly and it does look cool on their shark fin TRC.
That Rickenbacker script was not a real typographical font designed by a real graphic designer anyway. Someone at the company, maybe FC Hall's wife, just made it up. That Rickenbacker script fails at several levels, especially the two c's that look like r's. But people recognize it instantly and it does look cool on their shark fin TRC.
Blame Leo Fender.
Ha!
Maybe a leaf blower design for the TRC ? A bit much perhaps.
I've been following your build since the beginning and it is truly outstanding.
I'm sure whichever you decide on the truss rod cover, it'll be great.Invalid Link Removed
Awesome! Another thread winning post! And thanks so much for the interest and compliment
I got some work done this afternoon. Started sanding down the top coat with the scotchbrite pad.
Top and bottom.
Shielded the control cavity cover
And the body cavities. Hmm, that sounds a little weird...
Looks like I need to sand that area around the Control panel cavity a bit more. My eyes are not what they used to be for sure. I sand and sand, and only after I put the finish on do the imperfections int he sanding come through. There's an area on the upper horn too that may need a little more work as well. Unfortunately, it's well over 100 degrees this afternoon. Too hot to do any more sanding. It'll wait until morning.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,616
- 222,141
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I've done both brass tape and the shielding paint and even both one on top the other. I think it all works - just make you run a ground wire to the cavity (but you probably already know that…) I found it funny on my '86 4003 that the pg had a strip of masking tape on the back side under the pots! (?)
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,019
- 1
- 31,734
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Man, I know how that feels. Every. Single. Time. When will I learn?
Looks great!!
Sent from my asteroid using Awesome
Since Ricks use pots with short 1/4"bushings, they can't use the usual lock washers. The masking tape is there to give a surface with a bit of "stick"to it so the pots don't spin.
I never knew that about the masking tape. Thanks for the info!
So I continued work this morning. First, I laid a strip of the copper tape through the channel to connect each of the pickup cavities together, and to the control cavity. This stuff connects even through the sticky stuff, and I confirmed that with the meter.
Then I started installing the pickups. I ended up using both foam and springs for height adjustment. I figured the foam would stop the springs from rattling if the height was at its maximum.
Once screwed down, I double checked the DC resistance with the meter, just to make sure the pickup was still good, and to make sure it wasn't shorting against the copper shielding.
Same with the middle pickup.
And the bridge pickup.
Then I ran the ground wire to the bridge.
And checked continuity with the meter. Close enough for government work.
Started wiring up the control panel.
Wired in the pickups and connected everything to the output jack.
And installed the rest of the components.
Put on a brand new set of Rotosounds and tuned it up. Pardon the mess in my kitchen.
The moment of truth. I plugged it in, and…
Nothing. Took off the control panel, looked over everything, still nothing. Unscrewed the jack panel, pulled it out, and it came to life. The positive signal portion of the jack was grounding out against the copper shielding, so I just wrapped some black electrical tape around the entire jack, put it back to gather, and confirmed everything worked. That bridge pickup by itself nails that Chris Squire tone, and all three pickups provides a clear, rounded, modern Ric tone. The middle pickup almost sounds like my Precision, so I'd call this a success, assuming it holds together.
Made a new leaf truss rod cover this morning as well, and just laid it over the cavity for the photo op. I like it, and I sanded it enough for string clearance. I'm strongly favoring this cover right now. Thanks to all who offered their opinions, suggestions, feedback, and interest on the truss rod cover issue. Once the magnets come in, and I put on a few coats of the tung oil, I'll take some final pictures.
I can't believe it's pretty much done. I'm looking forward to taking it to practice tomorrow, to see how it sits in the mix.
So I continued work this morning. First, I laid a strip of the copper tape through the channel to connect each of the pickup cavities together, and to the control cavity. This stuff connects even through the sticky stuff, and I confirmed that with the meter.
Then I started installing the pickups. I ended up using both foam and springs for height adjustment. I figured the foam would stop the springs from rattling if the height was at its maximum.
Once screwed down, I double checked the DC resistance with the meter, just to make sure the pickup was still good, and to make sure it wasn't shorting against the copper shielding.
Same with the middle pickup.
And the bridge pickup.
Then I ran the ground wire to the bridge.
And checked continuity with the meter. Close enough for government work.
Started wiring up the control panel.
Wired in the pickups and connected everything to the output jack.
And installed the rest of the components.
Put on a brand new set of Rotosounds and tuned it up. Pardon the mess in my kitchen.
The moment of truth. I plugged it in, and…
Nothing. Took off the control panel, looked over everything, still nothing. Unscrewed the jack panel, pulled it out, and it came to life. The positive signal portion of the jack was grounding out against the copper shielding, so I just wrapped some black electrical tape around the entire jack, put it back to gather, and confirmed everything worked. That bridge pickup by itself nails that Chris Squire tone, and all three pickups provides a clear, rounded, modern Ric tone. The middle pickup almost sounds like my Precision, so I'd call this a success, assuming it holds together.
Made a new leaf truss rod cover this morning as well, and just laid it over the cavity for the photo op. I like it, and I sanded it enough for string clearance. I'm strongly favoring this cover right now. Thanks to all who offered their opinions, suggestions, feedback, and interest on the truss rod cover issue. Once the magnets come in, and I put on a few coats of the tung oil, I'll take some final pictures.
I can't believe it's pretty much done. I'm looking forward to taking it to practice tomorrow, to see how it sits in the mix.
This is beautiful. (not the kitchen; I don't care about the kitchen - you should see mine!) I like the bass, and the strap, the chrome knobs, the TRUSS ROD COVER, and all the other choices you have made.
Can't wait to HEAR IT!!!!!!
You should be very proud. I think you have made possibly one of my all-time favorite bass guitars.
Congratulations, that's a beautiful bass The attention to detail is wonderful, and you clearly have a very artistic mind and a steady hand. One of the most stunning basses I've ever seen!!! I look forward to your next
PS The truss cover looks great
The attention to detail is wonderful, and you clearly have a very artistic mind and a steady hand. One of the most stunning basses I've ever seen!!! I look forward to your next PS The truss cover looks great
Congratulations, that's a beautiful bass
PS The truss cover looks great
Thank you both, very much! I have one of those PreSonus Audiobox USB things, so there should be a way for me to record the bass and upload it somewhere. I bought the USB box, but haven't really played with it yet, so recording the bass may take a little time.
I took a pic with my Ric, just to compare:
I still have to do a setup - neck relief, intonation, and action, but it's pretty close right out of the "box".
And the whole bass family. No room for the keyboard or guitars.
I like it a lot. Now I want a whammy bar on MY Rick. Especially if it will cover up the mute route.
Congrats on getting to here! That looks fantastic. Nicely done.
I have to say I am not sold 100% on the TRC, but overall you look to have accomplished much greatness.
I'd have to play it to be sure...
Sound clips please, asap.
p.s. nice collection there.
I have to say I am not sold 100% on the TRC, but overall you look to have accomplished much greatness.
I'd have to play it to be sure...
Sound clips please, asap.
p.s. nice collection there.
Thanks. Actually, I'd be afraid to install the Kahler whammy in a Ric. Looking at the body thickness, I'm not sure there's enough depth. I sunk the body on mine 1/2" lower than the fretboard, after reading through some of the Kahler installs I've seen. The saddles sit pretty high off the body, so in many cases, they had to sink the Kahler into the body to get the action right. And the rout without sinking the bridge has to be about 3/4" for it to work. Additionally, I think it's interfering with sustain, or maybe it's clarity. Likely because it's not a solid mechanical connection with the body, with all those springs and cams. It's super heavy - likely over a pound as well. That said, I have seen a Ric or two with the Kahler over on the Tremolo Fanatics message board.
Congrats on getting to here! That looks fantastic. Nicely done.
I have to say I am not sold 100% on the TRC, but overall you look to have accomplished much greatness.
I'd have to play it to be sure...
Sound clips please, asap.
p.s. nice collection there.
Thanks. I'll bring it to the Phoenix GTG, along with the Reformer, should the GTG ever happen.
