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Leafenbacker

Who was your supplier for those alnico magnets, and what size are they? I haven't seen many suppliers for larger diameter magnets like those in small quantities, so I'm curious...
Nice bass, too. I always like seeing Ric-influenced DIY builds! I may have to have a go myself some time.

Thanks!

I found the magnets on Ebay. Looks like the seller has multiple sets as he's re-listed the ad here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=291095236409

They are 3/8" x 3/4" - I like the diameter, though they may be slightly too long, but they were the closest I could find to what I wanted. I would have preferred maybe 1/2" long, however I also seem to remember reading that alnico magnets like to have a certain diameter to length ratio for longevity.
 
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Finally found some time to work on this project today.

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First, I rounded over the edges of the body, as I felt that should be done prior to drilling out the jack plate area.

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After a bit of measuring, I drilled a hole for jack.

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Then I made a template for routing out the control panel cavity. Once the jack hole was cut, I was able to determine the exact position for the control cavity cover and cavity itself.

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Template done and in position. I marked the outline to hog out the area with the drill press.

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That cheap $10 forstner bit set I got at the pawn shop was the best deal I made in a while. It's paid for itself many times over.

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Next, the really scary part - routing out the control panel itself. Many slow, shallow passes is the most successful way I've found.

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That turned out ok. A little deeper than the mini volume controls I bought from StewMac.

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And the control panel covers the rout. Now I have to find a screw to hold the cover down, something that slipped my mind over the past few weeks. I'm thinking about the allen type screw, they call them socket cap screws. I'll counter sink it in so it'll be flush with the surface. Then I can sand the cover level with the surface, and finally start gluing in the onlays.
 
I wonder if if would be possible to have the cover screws reach the cover from the back of the bass. It would be cleaner on top with no screws visible. Or maybe enough magnets to be strong enough to hold it in place without screws?
 
I wonder if if would be possible to have the cover screws reach the cover from the back of the bass. It would be cleaner on top with no screws visible. Or maybe enough magnets to be strong enough to hold it in place without screws?

It could always be glued into place, then rear routed. Just thinking aloud. I don't know how well magnets would work with the weight of the controls attached.
 
Nice job on that jack hole, I have never in my life successfully drilled one by hand. I made a jig that clamps to my drill press table.

Thank you :)

I've tried a few times to set up a jig for drilling that jack hole with my drill press, but the last time I tried, with my previous build, the drill press just lifted off the table - it's not bolted down. Once I set up a more permanent workshop, that will be the first order of business. Since I managed to drill it last time by hand, I figured I'd give it another go. Fortunately, it came out ok. Just like with the router, slow and steady seems to do the trick.

I wonder if if would be possible to have the cover screws reach the cover from the back of the bass. It would be cleaner on top with no screws visible. Or maybe enough magnets to be strong enough to hold it in place without screws?

I thought a lot about the whole control cavity configuration. I went back and forth between several options. I compromised on this set up, as it allows me to change it later if I decide to do so, and the way it is now, it's a fairly simple design. I'm using a black socket cap screw, so it'll match the black knobs I have. I also got a silver screw, in case I change knobs. I also go back and forth between rear cavity control panels and front/pick guard style. I may eventually do a build where the pick ups are wired right to the jack - no controls. It's the cleanest.

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I did a little more work today. I made a template to hold the control cavity cover while I rout the underside down enough to mount the volume knobs.

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Here it is with the pattern clamped in place.

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And all finished. At this point, I can start gluing up the onlays to the wings. I bought two kinds of super glue, both gel type - loctite and gorilla glue.

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I do a test with each to see if there is any difference. For the time being, I'll stop for the day as I have to prepare for band practice tomorrow.
 
And suddenly I'm feeling like a lame bandmate, seeing as I'm leaving for band practice in 10 minutes and I have not touched an instrument since last week's band practice...

:D

I guess it depends on where the band is with their sets. We're in extreme song learning mode, trying to learn 4 or 5 songs each week. I have to practice at least a half hour to an hour a day, and I usually listen to the songs several times a day while I'm at work. If the band has their sets down, a lot of practice is likely not necessary.

... how does one practice for a jam session? ;)

By reading the internet while playing a bass to a variety of chord progressions?
 
From here it looks like you matched the grain perfectly!
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Yes, I actually cut the cover from the same board, at the same angle, in an attempt to match the grain :)

I was just teasing Splods... :smug: more about semantics but I guess spending time with your bass can be considered practice regardless of specifics.

And I was just teasing you :P
 
Oh, and I emailed Carvin for the status of the neck I ordered. The website states 3 - 4 weeks for custom orders, and it's been 5 weeks. They emailed me back within a day, and said they are extremely busy with production levels the highest they've been for custom orders, but should ship out my neck very soon.
 
Today, I made a template for the control panel pot layout. Here it is set up on the drill press.

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Set it up on the body to check that the controls fit, and are reasonably centered.

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Drilled the holes on to the actual control panel, and set it in place.

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And started to trim the leaf pieces to fit around the control panel.

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And of course, once I started placing the leaves, I couldn't stop myself. So this is my preliminary final placement design.

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Next, I think I'll try making a bobbin and winding a pickup.
 
So I cut a template, and cut the bobbin material to size.

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Then placed the magnets into the bobbin.

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I can see why they recommend magnetizing the poles after everything is done. These things jump around because of the magnetic pull between each pole. Additionally, I've learned that just because the bridge string spacing is 3/4", doesn't mean the poles should be 3/4" - they should be closer together. Ah, live and learn. The next set, I'll space them closer together. Maybe I should measure the string spacing at the proposed pickup location. Again, a learning experience.

So I'll have to get regular super glue to glue these in. I don't think the gel stuff I have is thin enough to leach down into the area between the poles and bobbin material. Once glued, I'll have to look at that sewing machine, and see how I can set this up.

I've seen other setups where they have a smooth metal bar with spacers in front of the winder, to allow the wire to wind on to the bobbin, to stay in between the two bobbin sheets. I'll have to go to Home Depot later today, and shop around a bit.