No; there is learned futility. They will keep going bad sooner and sooner. They know they are just going to get boiled, so there is no incentive to perform. With each subsequent boiling, they will produce more clams and more tuning errors.
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Let's spread some musical misinformation
- Thread starter pklima
- Start date
Maybe try a set that doesn't have the label "SM proof" on the package?
At least you get seafood. And I think you mean tuna errors.
I have to play a classical piece. Do you realise how difficult it is to get artillery tuned to D? Or in the UK, artillery at all. They let you have a banjo but howitzer might 'have your eye out'.
Try a mortar. They are easier to tune than a pack howitzer. Of course, a self-propelled artillery piece can double as a gig-wagon.
To quickly recharge batteries before a gig, they can be put into the microwave. Approximately 10 seconds per 1000 mAh will do.
Disclaimer: Don't you even think about trying this at home!
Disclaimer: Don't you even think about trying this at home!
The 1969 Ampeg SVT user's manual states that to prolong the amp's lifespan, and for best results, the tubes should be removed after every set during the course of a gig, and reinstalled before resuming.
Rush's original name was Tush (they were inspired by their favorite band, ZZ Top). But the Ontario Parents Association objected, and they were compelled to run through the alphabet for a new name.
Dorian mode is the same as Ionian, except that every note is raised a whole step.
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On the Ramones' first album, the instruments were actually played by a studio band consisting of Buddy Rich, Ray Brown and Herb Ellis.
Do try it at home, and make sure you post a video of it!
Dorian is the same as minor, but you start on the 4. Or was it the same as major, but start on the 2. Or maybe the same as Mixolydian but start on the 5. I'm sure it was one of those...
With Buddy Rich on Guitar and Herb Ellis on drums. And I think it was Terry Brown, not Ray playing mellotron.
The Ontario Parents Association was disbanded after Teenage Head caused a riot at one of their meetings.
All this talk of boiling strings, without ever addressing the finer points of the process; here are lessons learned from both the culinary arts and the nuclear energy sector, which have drastically improved string-boiling techniques in recent years...
With heavy gauge strings, it's best to hard-boil 'em.
However, lighter gauges you can get away with a simple, quick parboil.
Round-wounds are best brought to a rolling boil, but no longer than 5 minuets [sic] worth.
Coated strings, of course require film boiling.
Ground-wounds work best with transition boiling.
Gut strings on double-basses should only be boiled with natural convection.
Despite rumours to the contrary, it is perfectly safe to bring nickel-core strings to a nucleate-boil.
Extra-long strings for fan-fret instruments or downtuned instruments should be boiled at lower temperatures; since water will boil just below the temperature of its container's point of ignition, it is recommended you boil extended-range strings in a container made of hide, such as an all-natural wine-skin.
Rubber-based such as those found on Uke-basses, or synthetic strings on uprights, should never be brought to a full-boil, but rather a simmer — rapid simmer for rubber and a slow simmer for synthetic.
An alternative to boiling is steaming, but as this method is much harder to control (temperature, density, saturation, differences in strings types etc) the results will vary and very often may be unsatisfactory.
With heavy gauge strings, it's best to hard-boil 'em.
However, lighter gauges you can get away with a simple, quick parboil.
Round-wounds are best brought to a rolling boil, but no longer than 5 minuets [sic] worth.
Coated strings, of course require film boiling.
Ground-wounds work best with transition boiling.
Gut strings on double-basses should only be boiled with natural convection.
Despite rumours to the contrary, it is perfectly safe to bring nickel-core strings to a nucleate-boil.
Extra-long strings for fan-fret instruments or downtuned instruments should be boiled at lower temperatures; since water will boil just below the temperature of its container's point of ignition, it is recommended you boil extended-range strings in a container made of hide, such as an all-natural wine-skin.
Rubber-based such as those found on Uke-basses, or synthetic strings on uprights, should never be brought to a full-boil, but rather a simmer — rapid simmer for rubber and a slow simmer for synthetic.
An alternative to boiling is steaming, but as this method is much harder to control (temperature, density, saturation, differences in strings types etc) the results will vary and very often may be unsatisfactory.
Agreed, never play in Durian mode, it stinks!
When using a Muff-type effect, it is mandatory to play in Pi-àla-Mode.
When using a Muff-type effect, it is mandatory to play in Pi-àla-Mode.
nonsense! The chemist in me knows that boiling is boiling!
However, at lower pressure, the boiling point is reduced. As well, adding solute increases boiling point. Knowledge that is useful.
pressure wound strings should be boiled at 0.5 atm. But don't bring the strings to a boil. When the funk and mojo dissolves in the solvent, the solution will come to a boil. When the solution comes to a boil, the appropriate funk and mojo have been removed.
Funk and mojo can be neither created nor destroyed (the conservation of funk law). Make sure you use that broth to replenish the funk and mojo in your amp.
Remember, if you aren't part of the solution, you are part of the precipitate!
