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Low Down Sound Club: V2

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Hey guys!

Just happened to talk to Don today (don't see him much these days as he gets caught up on orders), and he mentioned that he had a 1515/66/1 'FearFul' spec cab sprayed with the heavy duty truckbed stuff, and it came out somewhat rough (he said the black spray on finish looks a bit like it has measles... bumpy).

This is the "partner" to my cab, which also had the finish a little wonky (so Don cut me a good deal) - it's basically (for those folks who know painting a bit) what;s typically referred to as "blistering", caused by air blisters in the finish coat.

Here is what it looks like on my cab:

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I don't know if the other cab has as minimal an issue or not.

Couldn't he just sand it down and respray it? :confused:

Also: sanding the truck liner kinda gets all melty and horrific, ime....

Yeah... it'd be easier to start over than take this stuff off.
 
18 weeks later, I have my LDS 15/6.

It looks great, even with the slight paint defect that saved me a pretty penny.

It also sounded wonderful at the gig saturday night - so with a few hours on it so far, I have to say I'm extremely satisfied.

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Cab is 50lbs, cover is 8lbs.
 
Cool. Have fun! :D

So... Mr. Oatman told me that he has a biamp panel, but only for 2-way cabs. I ordered the 3 way. I'm thinking that I should just go 2-way so that I can utilize amp heads with the passive x-over, whenever I don't feel like using a rack... what do you guys think...

He said my order is a few weeks out...
 
A 3-way biamp panel ought to be diable, just a little extra work (it should leave the high pass to the HF side and low pass to the MF side engaged). The Carvin LS1503s are a good example of this. The biamp high input still does passive crossover from MF to HF.

I'd ask if he can swing that.
 
i lost ya....typical three driver cab with biamp option does two things depending on the position of a switch on the jack plate, to wit:

mode A = used for receiving full range signal - has a 3 way passive xover feeding the woof, mid and horn respectively

mode B = meant for reciving a biamp signal - signal is split with the lows going straght to the woof with no passive xover and the upper half to the mid and horn with the part of the passive xover which splits teh signal between these two drivers still in play.

Its wired up so that the woof to mid part of the xover can be bypassed - but the mid to horn part is always in use.

I had LDS build my cab - then I added a fearful 3-way xover
 
I understand what you're saying now... But this is what Don told me:

"I have a slick bi-amp input panel but it is for a two way system ---yours is a three way. I can make yours a bi-amp cab by wiring the mid and tweeter separate from the woofer but you will have to run this this way all the time. The std. design calls for a dedicated 3--way cross-over."

Does this make sense at all...
 
I think you guys are saying the same thing. With the bi-amp setup Don described, you have:

Input 1: Woofer
Input 2: Passive crossover for mid and tweeter

Don said that this will be a permanent setup if you go this route.

It seems to me (no expert) that it should be possible to install a 2nd passive crossover with a bypass switch (if necessary) and another input jack for a mono-amp, full range input. But what do I know?

BTW, my 3 way cabinet has a variable pad on the mid and tweeter controls. It's not a bi-amp setup, but it's a reasonable middle ground, IMO, because I can set the high end any way I like it (relative to the woofer).
 
It seems to me (no expert) that it should be possible to install a 2nd passive crossover with a bypass switch (if necessary) and another input jack for a mono-amp, full range input. But what do I know?

Dats what i did...

*[edit]... well sorta, to be clear its the same xover broke into three parts [woof low pass, mid high pass, horn high pass] the switch just decides if I use all of it [full range] - or just the the horn high pass part of it [biamp] - because of the natural roll-off of the mids in the fEarful there is no need for a mid low pass
 
Don sent email to say he is working on my 4x8. I'll be sure to post a review when it gets here! I wonder if there is a used on out there that would help me cut cost and lead time on a stack. Considering the 6 piece i am in is loud enough that an 8x10 is what i am using at the practice studio, I may need two cabs. Loud is just what happens with drummer, congas, and timbales I suppose.
 
Ok guys (and gurus), I've read every post since the first LDS thread. I plan on ordering 2 cabs from Don in the immediate future, and I need to decide what exactly to order.

I currently have 3 gigs going: My church band (keys, 2 acoustics, electric, +choir), my bar band(2 loud guitars, loud drums), and occasionally some local musical theater/pit orchestra gigs.

I would like a versatile 2 cab setup. I'm thinking either a 210 and a 15/6 or a 210 and a 12/6. This way I could take a single cab to church and small clubs, and both cabs to louder places and outdoor shows.

My last "large" amp/cab setup was a Markbass LMII into an older Eden 410XLT. Due to losing my day job etc. I sold almost all of my gear - I've been using a garage sale Peavey 115 combo to get by.

Any and all input will be much appreciated. Thanks!
 
for that, i personally would vote for two 12/6/1 cabs.

also, my opinion: i don't believe making a stack out of a traditional cab and one of the newer two (or three) way cabs is a great idea.
 
Losing your job and selling gear may be painful, but on the bright side the sky is the limit when you rebuild the rig! Be prepped for pretty long lead time when you order from Don. I have been waiting 4 months now.

If you are shoping for a head, check out Genz Benz new amps. I am still very happy with the Genz Benz Shuttle MAX 6.0 I picked up last January. The preamp (with my favorite 12ax7 put in) has enought character to work OK with the very transparent digital power section. I did take my tube amp out for an oldies gig recently which fit the gig very well.

I have stacked various cabs and had good luck with 2 4x10's, a 2x10 and 1x18, as well as 8x8 and 2x10. So far, I have not had results that sounded good to me when biamping in band context. I ended up running the 2x10 and 1x18 full range which seems wrong butt sounded great. What sounds good solo does not always sit well in the mix.
 
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