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Low Down Sound Club: V2

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If you have two horns: Reverse the baffles, so that on one cab the midrange is on the left and one it's on the right. Turn the top one upside down, and they line up (horns too).

If you have one horn: Consider the 15/6 + 12/6/1 cube model. The 12/6 cube set up such that if you tilt it one way, the horn and mids line up vertically.

Also, see Ukiah's pictures for how his 12/6 + 15/6 line up.
 
Re: Power amps.

XTI 1000's are so cheap right now I am having a hard time not just buying one 'cos. 18lbs, fairly shallow, onboard DSP that is excellent quality and managed from your laptop.

That said, the XLS series is getting revamped with DSP and will in all likelihood be better and lighter. I'd watch those too.
 
Hi All,

I just ordered two 12/6.5/1 cabinets from Don, and I haven't decided yet on the covering. Specific to his cabinets, can anyone comment on the durability of Tolex vs. the spray-on coating he now offers? Don mentioned to me that it's relatively easy to repair damage to the spray-on coating; has anyone done this?

Thanks,

Bob
 
Hi All,

I just ordered two 12/6.5/1 cabinets from Don, and I haven't decided yet on the covering. Specific to his cabinets, can anyone comment on the durability of Tolex vs. the spray-on coating he now offers? Don mentioned to me that it's relatively easy to repair damage to the spray-on coating; has anyone done this?

Thanks,

Bob

Don's poly coating is really, really good quality. I have loaded mine in and out a dozen times now and not managed to do any damage to it.
 
Hi All,

I just ordered two 12/6.5/1 cabinets from Don, and I haven't decided yet on the covering. Specific to his cabinets, can anyone comment on the durability of Tolex vs. the spray-on coating he now offers? Don mentioned to me that it's relatively easy to repair damage to the spray-on coating; has anyone done this?

Thanks,

Bob

Hey Bob,

I believe Don has two 'spray on' options now. His original spray on coating that he has done by some company in Detroit is about as rock hard as you can get. It's just a touch 'rough' in texture, but it is VERY sturdy... as tough as anything I've experienced. He mentioned to me that he also now has an 'in house' sort of coating that I think is similar to the one Jim Bergantino uses on the AE cabs.. prettier, smoother, not quite as durable, but easily fixed (it is some sort of water based thing). I don't know the details, so make sure to ask him. If durability is key, and you don't mind a touch 'rough' finish, his original 'contracted out' spray on is wonderful. It does add a touch of weight to a cab (especially a large cab), but it is worth it.

PS RPSANDS has the 'tough stuff' per his post above.
 
All my LDS cabs have the older out of house stuff: it's the best in the biz.

While I haven't tried Don's version of it, I'm thoroughly unimpressed with the water-based stuff. It chips off the cab way too easy-and I'm uber careful with my stuff.
 
I again don't have the scoop really on the new finish option, and have yet to see one. I think I'll be seeing Don for lunch next week and will get more info on just what it is, and what the advantages/disadvantages are versus the 'outsourced' spray on finish he's been using for a while.
 
Hey guys, just wanted to report in about my 212/6/1. I've had it for over a month now, played it in auditoriums and small club stages with a blues/rock band and a alternative metal outfit using a Geddy Lee and a Warwick $$. It flat out rocks! I couldn't be happier with the tone and power handling, and it sounds great if I'm standing right in front of it, off to the side, or 20 feet out. It's been a breeze to move too.

I've come to the conclusion that I need more power for the clear, deep response that I want because my last rig I maxed out my amp on but it was much more mid-focused rig, less deep bass - which we all know takes power. So it looks like I'm hunting for a power amp. Which is ok, because then I can get some of my favorite rack pre-amps again :D


The only question I have is if anyone else has used distortion or fuzz with their 12/6 or 15/6 cabs and found the distortion less than pleasant. I think it sounds too synthy sometimes, which is od for a low gain OD (Xotic BB). Any ideas why that would be? I'm thinking it's something to do with the crossover perhaps?
 
Hey guys, just wanted to report in about my 212/6/1. I've had it for over a month now, played it in auditoriums and small club stages with a blues/rock band and a alternative metal outfit using a Geddy Lee and a Warwick $$. It flat out rocks! I couldn't be happier with the tone and power handling, and it sounds great if I'm standing right in front of it, off to the side, or 20 feet out. It's been a breeze to move too.

I've come to the conclusion that I need more power for the clear, deep response that I want because my last rig I maxed out my amp on but it was much more mid-focused rig, less deep bass - which we all know takes power. So it looks like I'm hunting for a power amp. Which is ok, because then I can get some of my favorite rack pre-amps again :D


The only question I have is if anyone else has used distortion or fuzz with their 12/6 or 15/6 cabs and found the distortion less than pleasant. I think it sounds too synthy sometimes, which is od for a low gain OD (Xotic BB). Any ideas why that would be? I'm thinking it's something to do with the crossover perhaps?

My guess is, you would be well served to mostly turn off the tweeter when using distortion. That should 'organic' it up a bit and smooth out the top end. Distortion and a modern sounding horn tweeter are not a pleasant combination IMO.

Edit: The idea of that cab with the new Carvin B2000 makes me a bit giddy!
 
I fiddled with the controls on the back and it seemed to be coming mostly from the 6" when I turned one down and then the other. I've had tweeters in cabs before that I didn't mind with distortion.

Interesting. That mid driver does give a totally different feel to the upper mid tone, versus those freq's coming out of the top end of a full range woofer. I assume having good control off that 800 to 2K region on your amp preamp will be key, so you can sculpt the nature of that upper mid response without totally turning it off and losing definition.
 
Interesting. That mid driver does give a totally different feel to the upper mid tone, versus those freq's coming out of the top end of a full range woofer. I assume having good control off that 800 to 2K region on your amp preamp will be key, so you can sculpt the nature of that upper mid response without totally turning it off and losing definition.

Yeah the 6 definitely has a lot of kick to it in the upper mids, I'm glad I have two bands of parametric mids on the Shuttle Max to do just that. I've gotta do some more experimenting with the full band and distortion, haven't really had the time/inclination to do so lately.

Clean is perfectly fine, better than fine ;) I don't notice any awkward transitions or bumps.
 
Yeah the 6 definitely has a lot of kick to it in the upper mids, I'm glad I have two bands of parametric mids on the Shuttle Max to do just that. I've gotta do some more experimenting with the full band and distortion, haven't really had the time/inclination to do so lately.

Clean is perfectly fine, better than fine ;) I don't notice any awkward transitions or bumps.

+1 Killer cab!
 
That Carvin you mentioned does look like a sweet deal too. 1300w!!

13 pounds and powerful EQ. I was always impressed by the B1500, but it was so big and heavy. This head replaces the B1500... 2/3rds the size, 1/3 the weight, and more wattage... and a tube you can switch on or off that drives the power amp. The 700 watts into 8ohms makes this a 'high quality but low cost' ($700) contender for the guys with the 15/6's that need to wump a bit.
 
Yeah the 6 definitely has a lot of kick to it in the upper mids, I'm glad I have two bands of parametric mids on the Shuttle Max to do just that. I've gotta do some more experimenting with the full band and distortion, haven't really had the time/inclination to do so lately.

Clean is perfectly fine, better than fine ;) I don't notice any awkward transitions or bumps.

I believe one of the 15/6 orderers had a 6nd410 come broken from shipping. Might want to pop your jack plate off and shine a light on the back and see if there's any damage or anything peculiar back there.

That said I would be shocked if it was not the horn. Wiring up a horn cutoff switch would definitely be worth your time.
 
I again don't have the scoop really on the new finish option, and have yet to see one. I think I'll be seeing Don for lunch next week and will get more info on just what it is, and what the advantages/disadvantages are versus the 'outsourced' spray on finish he's been using for a while.

Thanks for all the input, guys. Ken, if you do see Don for lunch, and get more info on his in-house vs out-house (sic) coating, I'd like to know about it.

Bob
 
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