• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Making a new bass your own

MegaSwing

MegaSwing

Your Obedient Bassist®
Gold Supporting Member
Nov 26, 2002
7,969
6,236
Baltimore, MD USA
#1
A couple of weeks ago, I came by a nice deal on a Jazz-style four with an aftermarket neck and good hardware, somebody's custom joint that got into the marketplace somehow. The neck was pretty and straight as a laser, all good, very clean.

After getting home to do my set-up, I discovered I could not raise the strings high enough before maxing out the string saddles. I mixed and matched odd bridge parts, anything to get that additional 32nd of an inch. It always sounded great, but the action was bugging me, and the bridge looked like hell all maxed out. This went on for about a week.

Then it hit me: Take the neck off and look in the pocket. And plain as day, there was a damned wood shim glued in there causing all the angst. I got it out, reassembled the parts, and "Come to Papa". It might be the best deal I ever got on an instrument.

My thing is action. My bass has to have a certain action before I can totally accept it. Regardless of price or appointments, that's what makes it mine.

What's YOUR thing?
 
#6
J. Crawford said:
Thanks for making ruin my keyboard with iced tea.. :D

Pickguard and flats for me. I cant have the stock guard, and I need my flats. Oh, and a tugbar.
Click to expand...

No problem dude. I am actually fighting putting my sterling's pg back on and putting a 'X' on it too. No joke

Depends on the bass IMO dude. Would you put flats on a Mark Hoppus bass? It's like putting rounds on a Harris sig.

But once again. Some basses are fine with the stock pickguard
 
#7
Tommygunn said:
No problem dude. I am actually fighting putting my sterling's pg back on and putting a 'X' on it too. No joke

Depends on the bass IMO dude. Would you put flats on a Mark Hoppus bass? It's like putting rounds on a Harris sig.

But once again. Some basses are fine with the stock pickguard
Click to expand...

Honestly, yeah, I would put flats on a MH. I couldnt care less who he is, what his tone is, or how he plays, it would be my bass. ;)

Which means, new pickguard and flats. ;)

Unless its a distinct slapping bass, which I have yet to own, then rounds would be on it. Until then...
 
#9
To make it my own:

First of all, I work with mostly - disposable instruments. I would never do this to a 2K instrument. We're talking $200 - on the high side. :)

When I get something in hand, I have the undeniable urge to: file the fret ends super smooth, do a very, very light sanding of the back of the neck, and do a significant sanding/rounding of the pickup corner I lay my thumb on. Only then is it My bass. :)
 
#10
J. Crawford said:
Honestly, yeah, I would put flats on a MH. I couldnt care less who he is, what his tone is, or how he plays, it would be my bass. ;)

Which means, new pickguard and flats. ;)

Unless its a distinct slapping bass, which I have yet to own, then rounds would be on it. Until then...
Click to expand...

It's not about his tone. It's about a hot pickup with low output strings. But I feel ya, no hate here! I loved my fender flats! They just had too much drag for a fretless IMO, amazing tone though. I don't know what to do cause they are cut 3+1 so (even with massive amounts of string re-shaping) they still won't fit back on either of my fretted basses.

Have you ever tried tapewounds? Just wondering...
 
#15
Me, too...

First, a good cleaning... lemon-oil the fingerboard (unless it's maple) lightly steel-wool polish the frets, use Martin or Alembic Guitar polish all over the rest of the body to clean previous-owner gunk off.

New strings, too... right off the bat, no matter what condition they're in.

I try to get the action as low as possible without buzzing, then isolate the cause of the buzzing, and fix it. Truss rod tweaks, filing frets, bridge adjustments.

Next, making sure the pots are clean, not scratchy and smooth. Replace/repair anything not 100% working.

Then, I settle in with it for a few days, tweak it some more, let it settle, check it again. Eventually, it'll get as good as I can get it without major luthier bills.

THEN, it's mine to decide if I like it or not. If so, good.
If not, I know it'll sell easily because it's been set up, pampered and polished.
 
#16
Edward G. said:
My thing is action. My bass has to have a certain action before I can totally accept it. Regardless of price or appointments, that's what makes it mine.

What's YOUR thing?
Click to expand...


1) Change strings if needed - if not, not. I probably will never change them again, ever.

2) Check action; adjust if needed.

3) Play it.

Once I own it, it's mine. I don't need to "make it mine"...it already is.
 
#17
M.R. Ogle said:
Me, too...

First, a good cleaning... lemon-oil the fingerboard (unless it's maple) lightly steel-wool polish the frets, use Martin or Alembic Guitar polish all over the rest of the body to clean previous-owner gunk off.

New strings, too... right off the bat, no matter what condition they're in.

I try to get the action as low as possible without buzzing, then isolate the cause of the buzzing, and fix it. Truss rod tweaks, filing frets, bridge adjustments.

Next, making sure the pots are clean, not scratchy and smooth. Replace/repair anything not 100% working.

Then, I settle in with it for a few days, tweak it some more, let it settle, check it again. Eventually, it'll get as good as I can get it without major luthier bills.

THEN, it's mine to decide if I like it or not. If so, good.
If not, I know it'll sell easily because it's been set up, pampered and polished.
Click to expand...

My usual method is similar to this, 'cept I use Pledge. The great (and unusual) thing about this last bass was that it was close to immaculate in every way.
 
#19

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back