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Mesa Boogie Walkabout Mega-thread Part 10

#3,002
pfschim said:
I don't believe this is true. Any cab can get an effect from acoustic and mechanical coupling with the floor, the Scout cabs are no different in that regard.
The passive radiator is just a way to tune the cab, like another form of porting, and has nothing directly to do with the "sound output" of the Scout cabs.

@agedhorse may come around and clarify this, but I'm pretty sure about what I said.
Click to expand...

Agreed in my extensive and ongoing experience with these cabs. It makes little difference in the room whether the cab is stacked or even tilted on its side at higher volumes, and no difference if recording with a mic on it. At lower volumes having it sat upright so the passive radiator is at the "proper" distance from the floor seems to fill the lows in the room, but it's nothing that couldn't be compensated for with a bit of EQ.

They're stellar, unique cabs that sound great no matter which way you sit them or where!
 
#3,003
I tried using a Subway D800 head with a PH112 and a 4 ohm Walkabout combo cab (with the head removed) at 2.67 ohms. It sounded amazing, but I think caution on the volume is advised, since the head might put out more than the Scout cab can handle........

Subway:Walkabout:PH112.jpeg
 
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#3,004
So I went up to Mesa in Petaluma today and bought a new handle for my Walkabout.
In <<trying>> to remove the old handle both screws on one side were rusted. I got them almost 1/2" out but the screws are now turning the nut on the inside of the cab.
I need to get my hand inside to remove these 2 screws. I've removed the grill panel and taken the 8 screws out of the perimeter of the speaker but it doesn't want to budge.
Should the speaker just come out with all screws removed? Is there some sort of glue/adhesive applied between the speaker and the wood it screws into? If so, how can I remove the speaker without damaging the speaker or the wood panel?
Or, should I be getting into the cab another way?
 
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#3,005
BassPilot said:
So I went up to Mesa in Petaluma today and bought a new handle for my Walkabout.
In <<trying>> to remove the old handle both screws on one side were rusted. I got them almost 1/2" out but the screws are now turning the nut on the inside of the cab.
I need to get my hand inside to remove these 2 screws. I've removed the grill panel and taken the 8 screws out of the perimeter of the speaker but it doesn't want to budge.
Should the speaker just come out with all screws removed? Is there some sort of glue/adhesive applied between the speaker and the wood it screws into? If so, how can I remove the speaker without damaging the speaker or the wood panel?
Or, should I be getting into the cab another way?
Click to expand...

Might want to try dripping a few drops of WD40 on the threads, it might seep down to the nut......
 
#3,006
TuneMan said:
Might want to try dripping a few drops of WD40 on the threads, it might seep down to the nut......
Click to expand...
If this was a car exhaust system or lawn mower that (or my personal favorite, PB Blaster) might be a good idea. IME though once an embedded t-nut or whatever starts turning in a piece of wood you need to address the problem directly with hands/tools on that rotating piece.

More twisting is only likely to chew the wood up even more. It's also possible that some that rust-buster spray stuff could leak down onto the speaker or on to the crossover and do some additional damage.
 
#3,007
Sounds like a spinner t-nut. They can be a pain, especially if it got wet and a little rusty.

There may be a gasket holding the speaker tight to the baffle.
 
#3,008
Al Kraft said:
If this was a car exhaust system or lawn mower that (or my personal favorite, PB Blaster) might be a good idea. IME though once an embedded t-nut or whatever starts turning in a piece of wood you need to address the problem directly with hands/tools on that rotating piece.

More twisting is only likely to chew the wood up even more. It's also possible that some that rust-buster spray stuff could leak down onto the speaker or on to the crossover and do some additional damage.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm not spraying any lubricant/solvent into that cab. I definitely need to get my hand inside and remove the spinner t-nut. At this point I've stopped work.

agedhorse said:
Sounds like a spinner t-nut. They can be a pain, especially if it got wet and a little rusty.

There may be a gasket holding the speaker tight to the baffle.
Click to expand...

I could try carefully prying the speaker off of the baffle but I don't want to scar the baffle or damage the speaker.
I think I'll hold in place and call tech support in the morning. I'm sure they've encountered this before.

Thanks guys!
 
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#3,009
BassPilot said:
Should the speaker just come out with all screws removed? Is there some sort of glue/adhesive applied between the speaker and the wood it screws into?
Click to expand...

Yes there sort of actualy is. Mesas speakers have a rather sticky thin foam gasket on the back where it sits on the wood. You have to pry a bit to get it to let go. Most times my fingers can grip it as I pull but sometimes I have to use a wide flat screwdriver, AND BE CAREFUL NOT TO CHEW UP THE WOOD. :D
 
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#3,010
I've had some luck with spinning t-nuts by carefully prying up on the screw as I turn it -- either with a flat blade screwdriver to pry up on the screw, or with vice grip pliers to hold the screw head while I pull up and turn it. But if the bolt isn't turning freely due to rust, you probably can't put enough pressure on it using these methods to hold the t-nut.
 
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#3,012
mikeswals said:
Yes there sort of actualy is. Mesas speakers have a rather sticky thin foam gasket on the back where it sits on the wood. You have to pry a bit to get it to let go. Most times my fingers can grip it as I pull but sometimes I have to use a wide flat screwdriver, AND BE CAREFUL NOT TO CHEW UP THE WOOD. :D
Click to expand...

Caca de Kick - that worked - Thanks!
When there's no obvious restraint I don't like to force something. But in this case I pried the speaker up a bit an off she came. Man, these Mesa cabs are built like brick s__t houses! Almost indestructible - I have the busted knuckles to prove it.
So I got inside and after 20 minutes or wrestling with the t-nuts they were off. They and the handle were in terrible condition. I got the new one installed in 5 minutes - see pics.
Thanks for everyone's help!
Handle 4.jpg
Handle 3.jpg
 
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#3,017
Hey, I have a short question. My WA12 has a 4Ohm speaker in it. I'd like to add a second cab to my rig, so can I simply swap the 4Ohm with an 8Ohm speaker?
A cab-builder told me the enclosure needs another tuning for the 8Ohm due to different installation parameters. Are there any differences in the 4 and 8 Ohm versions of the combo cab? Maybe the bass reflex tube or the insulation?
Maybe @agedhorse can bring some light on it.
 
#3,020
agedhorse said:
You can call customer service, but I am pretty sure the parameters of the 8 ohm driver are very close to the 4 ohm driver and it's a direct swap.
Click to expand...
Thank you! That sounds great! Maybe the other guy just wanted to sell his own cabs. ;)

Now I just have to find an 8Ohm Scout 12 Extension Cab here in Europe! Not the easiest task!
 
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