Thanks for the info! I put that strap nut there because it pulls the neck up, and makes the bass sit naturally between 45 & 60 degrees from level, without having to hang the bass lower. It gives me full range of the fret board, with minimal angle shifts in my wrists. I'm hopeful it won't be needed!
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Modulus Mob
- Thread starter rockstarbassist
- Start date
I've read about this happening to phenolic boards. Is there any way to protect them ?
Maybe epoxy or some kind of finish?
While lurking through the Status UK bass website, found where they also recommend WD40 for cleaning the phenolic fingerboard as well (since it seems to come up often here)
Status Graphite. The finest hand-made graphite basses and guitars. Made in England.
Status Graphite. The finest hand-made graphite basses and guitars. Made in England.
I have had two early 90's sweetspots for 20 years in Colorado, and the necks and fingerboards are holding up fine. I thought it was the dryness in Colorado that help keep them going strong after all these years, , but perhaps I should be oiling board as a preventive measure.
Any thoughts, as I could tell if bacon grease was a sincere option. I love bacon, so maybe my Moduli would too. Thanks.
Any thoughts, as I could tell if bacon grease was a sincere option. I love bacon, so maybe my Moduli would too. Thanks.
Confirmed, Tony from Modulus says that is what they do.
Here are the instructions in case somebody needs it (source: Modulus):
1) Take the strings off the bass
2) Apply tape that does not leave residue such as Blue Painters Tape on the body along the bass side and treble side of neck / fretboard to protect the body
3) Track down a 1" x 1" or so piece of 0000 Steel Wool
4) Spray the steel wool with WD-40
5) Buff the phenolic with the 0000 Steel Wool & WD40 on it. Buff from fret 1 to the nut, then fret 2 to fret 1, and so on all the way down the fingerboard. Be careful when buffing, and especially around the body.
6) Let the WD-40 on the phenolic set on the phenolic for a few minutes.
7) Wipe it off with a clean soft cloth. You may need to wipe it down several times until you don't leave a black residue on the cloth. Be sure to get all of the little pieces of steel wool that tend to turn to little pieces when buffing it. Pickups typically attract those little pieces, so you need to be very cautious when doing this.
Funny I live in Colorado as well and I've had about 9 Quantums where all the necks went bad and about 6 Quantums that where perfectly fine.
So out of 15 quantums you've owned, 9 have had their necks go bad?
I just got my first modulus and that's pretty scary. Based on those odds wood would be more stable!
What's the consensus on the new modulus company when it comes to handling stuff like this. Will they fix/replace an old modulus neck at a reasonable price?
Keep in mind that they are a brand new company and they are not the size of Fender, I assume they are very small company and they have a lot on there plate with new orders, so I imagine if there is any old warranty issues you would need to talk to Tony at www.planetbass.com and keep in mind as well if they do any repair that could put them in a serious back log so you would definitely need to check with Tony.
My Vertex is going to a new home. Not sure who bought it, but it is going to MA!! Just could not keep a 4 string. Shame to keep such a cool playing bass in its case
I'm no scientist, but WD40 removes moisture, so cleaning the board regularly should help prevent this, no?
Many moons ago, I had an old car with an electrical aystem that abosrbed moisture everytime it rained hard and wouldn't start. Used to spray the distributor cap with wd40 and be good to go in 5 minutes.
