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Modulus Mob

#11,084
Question for all your Modulus owners with more experience than me. I have wear on some of my frets and it's causing buzzing. My normal luthier doesn't have experience with carbon fiber instruments and phenolic fingerboards and I don't really trust him with it.

1) How different is fret work on a Modulus neck with a phenolic fingerboard as opposed to a normal wooden neck and FB?
2) Can you polish and crown the frets as normal?
3) Can you refret the bass as normal?

Any information and experience is appreciated. Thanks!
 
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#11,085
Modulus 96 said:
What strings are the ones that will cause the neck to bow because of the tension? On a pre truss rod neck you'd want to stay away from those.
Click to expand...
There was talk of DR Low riders not having enough tension on the neck. Not sure how true it is. Can't say I ever noticed any changes with my neck for the 12ish years I used nickel low riders.
 
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#11,086
Bassinga said:
Question for all your Modulus owners with more experience than me. I have wear on some of my frets and it's causing buzzing. My normal luthier doesn't have experience with carbon fiber instruments and phenolic fingerboards and I don't really trust him with it.

1) How different is fret work on a Modulus neck with a phenolic fingerboard as opposed to a normal wooden neck and FB?
2) Can you polish and crown the frets as normal?
3) Can you refret the bass as normal?

Any information and experience is appreciated. Thanks!
Click to expand...

My understanding, based on the guys I've had work on my graphite necked basses over the years (plus an interview with Richard Stanley Guitarsmith I read decades ago), is that polishing/crowning frets is no different than with a wooden necked instrument, but that re-fretting/de-fretting is decidedly different, and not for the squeamish or inexperienced.
 
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#11,087
Bob_Ross said:
My understanding, based on the guys I've had work on my graphite necked basses over the years (plus an interview with Richard Stanley Guitarsmith I read decades ago), is that polishing/crowning frets is no different than with a wooden necked instrument, but that re-fretting/de-fretting is decidedly different, and not for the squeamish or inexperienced.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Especially, a possible pre- truss rod consideration. Would be interested in expert opinions from @GeoffGould.
 
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#11,088
DeathDancer said:
There was talk of DR Low riders not having enough tension on the neck. Not sure how true it is. Can't say I ever noticed any changes with my neck for the 12ish years I used nickel low riders.
Click to expand...

I had a problem with my Q5’s non-truss rod neck when I was using Hi-Beams (which have a lower tension than Lo-Riders). The neck developed a back bow. This was back when Modulus was still in business as the original company. I called customer service and told them my neck had a back bow. Without me saying so, the tech asked me if I was using Hi-Beams. When I said yes, he told me that the tension was too low and to switch them out with something else. I did - problem solved.
 
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#11,089
Bassinga said:
Question for all your Modulus owners with more experience than me. I have wear on some of my frets and it's causing buzzing. My normal luthier doesn't have experience with carbon fiber instruments and phenolic fingerboards and I don't really trust him with it.

1) How different is fret work on a Modulus neck with a phenolic fingerboard as opposed to a normal wooden neck and FB?
2) Can you polish and crown the frets as normal?
3) Can you refret the bass as normal?

Any information and experience is appreciated. Thanks!
Click to expand...
I’ve spoken directly with Joe Perman (he has built many Modulus basses) and he said it’s no more difficult to refret a phenolic board than it is to refret an ebony board.
 
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#11,090
Bob_Ross said:
My understanding, based on the guys I've had work on my graphite necked basses over the years (plus an interview with Richard Stanley Guitarsmith I read decades ago), is that polishing/crowning frets is no different than with a wooden necked instrument, but that re-fretting/de-fretting is decidedly different, and not for the squeamish or inexperienced.
Click to expand...

JuanB said:
I’ve spoken directly with Joe Perman (he has built many Modulus basses) and he said it’s no more difficult to refret a phenolic board than it is to refret an ebony board.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your insight! In my amateur experience, I don't think it needs a refret yet, but a polish, crown or level is probably necessary. I'll take it to my local luthier and see what he says. If it needs a refret then I'll search for someone within Europe who can do it.
I'm aware of Stephan Hess from Bogart and I will contact him. Can anyone recommend any others within Europe I can contact?
 
#11,091
Merry Christmas
IMG_1248.jpeg
 
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#11,092
Bassinga said:
I'm aware of Stephan Hess from Bogart and I will contact him. Can anyone recommend any others within Europe I can contact?
Click to expand...

Heiko Hoepfinger, the builder of Basslab isntruments, also knows what he is doing in this field as his instruments are made of a tuned, mixed composite material. He specifically mentions refrets on the FAQ page for his basses, I expect the process there is much the same as with a phenolic.
 
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