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My DP Pushic Custom fiasco........

#122
No, but that really doesnt matter.

The quality on that bass looks amazingly better than what I had a couple of years ago.

Actually I just found out.. (on the DP custom gallery) what happened finally to mine.

It had an Omega at the headstock, now it sports an ALPHA at the Body a Jesus at the 12th and the Omega at the headstock.

Wonder who owns it now...
 
#124
4string4ever said:
Ok, so I ordered a DP Custom in December 2003. Took almost a year and a half, and the original quote was between 36 and 40 weeks. I send my own design and requested a spalted figured maple for the top, with layers of purple heart, maple, and ash in the center. When I finally got the bass, I was quite dismayed to find first of all that the poly finish I requested was horribly uneven and blotchy, to which Dave replied "That's how it comes out on that particular wood". Knowing that, I think he should have cautioned me beforehand and suggested against the poly, or to use a different topwood. Also, the layers in the body were of quite different thicknesses around the perimeter of the body, like they were sanded to heavily in some spots. The wings were crooked against the neck through, the headstock was lopsided (it was supposed to be an arrowhead shape), the holes for the tuning keys weren't the same distances from the edge of the headstock by a large margin, and the middle piece of the 3 piece neck was not centered. Over all, a quite crappy piece of work.

I sent it back insisting on a redo, which he did. I offered to allow him to use his own designs, and to go without the body lams, all in order to have a better chance of a quality build.

A couple of months later, the bass arrives. Using the same nut from the original that was 1 9/16" wide, the friggin' neck was 1 3/4" wide with filler in the gaps!! I couldn't believe it!!

He had the bass picked up to fix this, and then when it arrived for the third time, I discovered that there now is more bend in the neck on the low side than on the high side. The low side shows some relief and the high side is straight. The more relief I apply, the worse it looks. He says it is fine, and will actually be better for the intonation and resonance of the lower register.

I have been dismayed by the negativity I've seen here about Dave since he's been a pretty standup guy thusfar, but I can no longer stand idly by. He now refuses do do any further work on my bass. I have contacted the BBB, and will also contact legal counsel if necessary.

A note to anyone considering purchasing a DP Custom;

DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!
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Is this your Bass here? >> http://cgi.ebay.com/DP-CUSTOM-5-STR...oryZ4713QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I get a liittle sick when my name gets used like this. 'Keyword Spamming' may mislead some but I hope these starved bargain hunters don't call me with their compaints.
 
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
#126
marcusalan said:
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Is it just me, or are the ferrules not lined up symmetrically?
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I knew someone was going to mention this the second I saw it. Again, this is a point that a lot of us here care about, but I have a feeling that the vast majority of Dave's other customers dont care that much. I care a little... but in the long run Im sure I wont care. Im not buying a boutique bass.
 
#127
marcusalan said:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Is it just me, or are the ferrules not lined up symmetrically?
Click to expand...
I have no axe to grind with DP, and I'm not looking to further fan the firestorm surrounding these basses, but this is the kind of thing that drives me crazy with DP, Wish and several other builders :scowl:

I only have modest woodworking skills, but I can assure you that I have the ability to drill a series of straight holes. For me, the inability to pay attention to these types of details is hard to understand, and would certainly give me more than ample reason to question other aspects of the construction.
 
#130
Dave got very angry with me when i posted on TB the problems that i had with my new "custom." I didn't mention who made it just that it had many problems. IT seems unfortunately that his methods have not improved and that he pays no attention to the negative feedback that he gets.

If he took more time and paid more attention to detail and craftsmanship his basses would indeed be a bargain.

seems like that is not going happen.
 
#131
Thanks for the link, Ken.

After reading so many threads in the past few weeks, I'm developing a theory that there are thresholds, as follows:

New:
0-500 Beginner (from Squier, Ibanez)

500-1000 Player (Schecter, Spector - czech, Fender American, etc.)

1000-2000 I want a REALLY nice bass, but if I want something great, I'm going to have to look for something used, because new instruments in this range may not be of the quality I REALLY want.

2000+ Here are my specs - what can you make for me?
 
#132
lamborghini98 said:
I knew someone was going to mention this the second I saw it. Again, this is a point that a lot of us here care about, but I have a feeling that the vast majority of Dave's other customers dont care that much. I care a little... but in the long run Im sure I wont care. Im not buying a boutique bass.
Click to expand...

It's your cash, not mine.
 
#133
lamborghini98 said:
I knew someone was going to mention this the second I saw it. Again, this is a point that a lot of us here care about, but I have a feeling that the vast majority of Dave's other customers dont care that much. I care a little... but in the long run Im sure I wont care.
Click to expand...

A champion of mediocrity. You are a lazy company's wet dream. Either that, or you're hoping really hard that all of the little mistakes that add up to a POS don't happen to your bass.

Im not buying a boutique bass.
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Yeah, no kidding...
 
#135
The matching control cavity cover might be a nice idea, but why then drill the hole for the string ferrule so that is on the edge of the cover and at the edge of a laminate for the neck and body wing. Could this be a problem in the future?
 
#136
pointbass said:
.... and that's the thing that drives me nuts :confused: It's gotta be a lot more difficult to match that plate than it is to drill a straight hole ..... I just don't understand :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Maybe maybe not.
A straight hole drilled with a hand drill is a nearly impossible task, the wood has different densities and the drill bit will follow the least dense path.

A hole drilled using a drill press with the instrument clamped down will not wander and the wood density is not an issue especially if the drill bit is kept as short as possible.

A hole "pilot drilled" with a small drill bit and then opened with sequentially larger drill bits will have a tendency to track a straighter hole than going for broke with the finished size drill bit.

The ferrules and the string holes are different sizes and the ferrule dimension requires a tool known as a "counterbore" which tracks the original hole with a non-cutting pilot and enlarges the ferrule hole to the correct depth. Also impossibly difficult with a hand drill.

Any slip or wobble and you get what you see. I speak from experience after ruining my 1964 Precision many years ago from lack of proper tools. :bawl: The drill bit caught a hard spot in the body and walked halfway acros the back making a real mess before I got it under control. :o
As for fitting the wood together I did a piece inserted in a refinished (no tolex and was stained dark walnut) twin reverb that was indistinguisable from the original. It was much easier than the darn fool holes. :spit:

All things being equal a sharp, clean, well dressed drill bit is a necessity.
 
#137
JDGA fan said:
The matching control cavity cover might be a nice idea, but why then drill the hole for the string ferrule so that is on the edge of the cover and at the edge of a laminate for the neck and body wing. Could this be a problem in the future?
Click to expand...

This is what I noticed before noticing how poorly the holes were aligned. It just seems like a horrible design flaw that the string ferrule and cavity cover would share the same space. I don't know how thick the cover is, but given that it is made of wood I would wager that it is on the order of .25" thick (unless it is laminated to a piece of brass or something). Having the ferrule only occupy half of a hole is a strange mounting method.
 
#138
Geoff St. Germaine said:
This is what I noticed before noticing how poorly the holes were aligned. It just seems like a horrible design flaw that the string ferrule and cavity cover would share the same space. I don't know how thick the cover is, but given that it is made of wood I would wager that it is on the order of .25" thick (unless it is laminated to a piece of brass or something). Having the ferrule only occupy half of a hole is a strange mounting method.
Click to expand...
Even worse, if it's the case: If he copied the Pedulla design, then the cover is at least 1/2" thick, which would leave at least 1/2" of ferrule depth, nearly halfway around, hanging in space.

And either way, I can imagine some funky interfacing between the cover and the flange of the ferrule, when removing the cover.
 
#140
pilotjones said:
Even worse, if it's the case: If he copied the Pedulla design, then the cover is at least 1/2" thick, which would leave at least 1/2" of ferrule depth, nearly halfway around, hanging in space.

And either way, I can imagine some funky interfacing between the cover and the flange of the ferrule, when removing the cover.
Click to expand...

How much of a control cavity actually exists beneath the cover? I'm not that familar with DP but when I removed a like cover from my Elrick, only about 1/4 - 1/3 of the exposed area was routed to accept the electronics.

Riis
 

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