That was my wife's idea as well, although she was talking about a four-post picnic shelter type tent. There's one at Target that's 10'x10' for $89.
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My New Studio Build (perhaps overly detailed)
- Thread starter silky smoove
- Start date
Hard to see in this picture, but I got one more course installed. I also back filled the back side of ALL the blocks to help secure them against the incoming rain over the next week. I'm still concerned about the unsecured front side that I have to leave open to install the French drains along the bottom of the wall, but I don't really have a good option at this point. I might opt to fill the front sides and just plan on excavating them again when the weather starts looking better. In fact... Yep... Doing that tomorrow night.
My buddy also dropped off his picnic shelter tent. I'm pretty sure I can get the cutting done underneath it with some additional shelter between my house and my tool shed. If I can weather the rain I'll be VERY happy.
My buddy also dropped off his picnic shelter tent. I'm pretty sure I can get the cutting done underneath it with some additional shelter between my house and my tool shed. If I can weather the rain I'll be VERY happy.
You must be glad to get over that hurdle.
Filling the trench and not packing it down might result in some muck. If it is a problem, maybe put a section of polyethylene drop cloth down over the trench, add some crushed stones to hold it in place till you get to it.
Filling the trench and not packing it down might result in some muck. If it is a problem, maybe put a section of polyethylene drop cloth down over the trench, add some crushed stones to hold it in place till you get to it.
The problem with sheeting it is that you create a bathtub. I can deal with a little mud, but having as much as 69' of bathtub to deal with (and probably spill into the trench anyway) is a non-starter for me. I going to pack the front side of the blocks when I get home tonight, and that will be as good as it gets. The rains this morning, that have now subsided, were more than the typical Seattle settling mist, but far from a downpour. My wife just checked in things and said the ground was damp, but not visibly soaked by any means. I'm optimistic that this will all be fine.
In the meantime I'm also optimistic about my block cutting solution. If all goes as planned I'll have the wall completely built less the blocks I snorted on the order by the end of the weekend. It'll be wet and cold, but at least it will be done.
In the meantime I'm also optimistic about my block cutting solution. If all goes as planned I'll have the wall completely built less the blocks I snorted on the order by the end of the weekend. It'll be wet and cold, but at least it will be done.
Backs and fronts are secured with compacted dirt for the incoming rains. I also managed to set three more blocks before calling it quits for the night. I've been working on this everyday since Saturday (6 hours on Saturday, 9 hours on Sunday, 3.5 hours after work on Monday, 2.5 hours after work last night, and 2 hours after work tonight), and suffice it to say, my batteries are on empty. The engine is running on fumes... Ugh... I called it quits early tonight. I'm undecided on whether I'll put in any hours tomorrow night and Friday night after work since I'll have three full days over the weekend to knock everything out. Either way I'm confident that I'll be able to finish this by the end of the day on Monday less the blocks that I shorted in the original order and a few cubic yards of crushed rock that I need to spread around. The French drains will happen once the pad is finished, and likely after the building is installed. I wish I could have got them in the ground ahead of these rains, but it's not the end of the world.
Rain is better than the snow and cold that we are getting.
How will you get power into your building? In one place I had a problem with RF noise from the power lines. The electrician put in metal pipes that the power lines ran in. Everything was shielded. The circuit panel was also a problem.
How will you get power into your building? In one place I had a problem with RF noise from the power lines. The electrician put in metal pipes that the power lines ran in. Everything was shielded. The circuit panel was also a problem.
I'm running a service off of my house's panel, which is huge and has lots of spaces left. Completely oversized for the house.
That will connect to a sub-panel in the studio building. The service will be in a buried conduit. There are some tricks to reducing line noise, interference, prevent grounding issues, etc. that are all outlined in great detail in the book by Rod Gervais that I've been heralding throughout this thread.
I've got a licensed electrician lined up for the project. He's done some work on my house already and is a real pro.
That will connect to a sub-panel in the studio building. The service will be in a buried conduit. There are some tricks to reducing line noise, interference, prevent grounding issues, etc. that are all outlined in great detail in the book by Rod Gervais that I've been heralding throughout this thread.
I've got a licensed electrician lined up for the project. He's done some work on my house already and is a real pro.
It makes things less complicated if you can run the lines from the house. Buiried conduit is also a nice way to go.
As you mentioned, there are ways to run and separate the wiring to minimize noise. Power conditioning can get expensive fast. Nice if you can manage it. Some studios have two systems, clean power for studio equipment where a low noise floor is required, and regular power for lights, etc.
Costs for infrastructure can get in the way of the stuff that you want to spend money on.
As you mentioned, there are ways to run and separate the wiring to minimize noise. Power conditioning can get expensive fast. Nice if you can manage it. Some studios have two systems, clean power for studio equipment where a low noise floor is required, and regular power for lights, etc.
Costs for infrastructure can get in the way of the stuff that you want to spend money on.
Lights will be on a dedicated circuit, control room fixtures (computer, monitors, screen, rack gear, etc.) will be on a dedicated circuit, live room fixtures (amps, pedals, etc.) will be on a dedicated circuit, exterior lighting will be on a dedicated circuit...
Just reserved the mighty Norton BBM307 concrete block saw for Saturday. Rain or shine I'm cutting 29 blocks and stacking the rest this weekend.
Everything is on track to resume construction first thing tomorrow morning. Great news there, although my back would disagree.
A quick design update: I just got off the phone with my building guy and we went over the details of the floor installation. My plan to pull up the decking to install a source of mass underneath the flooring in the joist bays won't work because the edges of the decking are plated to the structure as part of the wall construction. To get the flooring up I'd be sawing it out around the perimeter of the structure. No thanks. Instead I'll be doing what I should have done in the first place. I'm having the rough opening for the exterior door framed at 81" rather than 80" and installing a layer of 5/8" type X drywall on the floor along with a layer of Green Glue beneath. I'll float the edges 1/4" out from the wall and seal the gap with acoustic sealant. My actual flooring will go on top of the drywall (with whatever underlay is required for the flooring I pick out). Simpler, actually cheaper (surprisingly) and just as effective. Winner winner chicken dinner!
A quick design update: I just got off the phone with my building guy and we went over the details of the floor installation. My plan to pull up the decking to install a source of mass underneath the flooring in the joist bays won't work because the edges of the decking are plated to the structure as part of the wall construction. To get the flooring up I'd be sawing it out around the perimeter of the structure. No thanks. Instead I'll be doing what I should have done in the first place. I'm having the rough opening for the exterior door framed at 81" rather than 80" and installing a layer of 5/8" type X drywall on the floor along with a layer of Green Glue beneath. I'll float the edges 1/4" out from the wall and seal the gap with acoustic sealant. My actual flooring will go on top of the drywall (with whatever underlay is required for the flooring I pick out). Simpler, actually cheaper (surprisingly) and just as effective. Winner winner chicken dinner!
Pictures and a full update to come tomorrow or Tuesday. In the meantime I will simply say this: The last few days have been VERY productive 
Also, last night I was concerned that I had injured myself during the day's activities as I could barely walk around my house. To say that it was unpleasant would be an understatement. Magically this morning I felt a million times better. Not sure how that worked out, but it did and I'm not about to argue.
Young'ish...
I'm not sure what the cut-off for being "young" is anymore. I'm 33 and will be 34 in a few months. At that point I will officially be in my mid-30s. Does that still qualify as young? I don't know anymore. I don't really like much new music coming out these days, I don't go out to scenes where you typically find young people... I don't feel old, but young might be a stretch, haha.
It qualifies as far as I'm concerned. Hah!
I actually like a ton of music that's coming out, but none of it is on the radio. Bandcamp and Soundcloud, along with following folks like Anil Prasad on FB and checking out what folks here are doing, has provided me with cornucopia of new and old music to check out.
I actually like a ton of music that's coming out, but none of it is on the radio. Bandcamp and Soundcloud, along with following folks like Anil Prasad on FB and checking out what folks here are doing, has provided me with cornucopia of new and old music to check out.
I'd say 33 is still young. Hell, I just turned 40 last month and everyone around me still says I'm young. Who knows the cutoff age for being "old" nowadays.
