Half of the joist hangers have been removed. Once I got a system down they weren't too bad. More than 5, but less than 10 minutes each. I'll finish them off tomorrow.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
My New Studio Build (perhaps overly detailed)
- Thread starter silky smoove
- Start date
How to remove a joist hanger
Step 1: Pry the hanging end up with a bar
Step 2: slide out the nails that were previously in the joist
Step 3: hammer a pry bar up from the bottom and then smash out the two face nails
Step 4: move the ladder to the other side of the wall
Step 5: hammer a pry across the top to loosen the top nails
Step 6: move the ladder back to the original side of the wall
Step 7: bend the entire hanger up 90-degrees
Step 8: hammer a pry bar across the top and under the top nails to loosen them
Step 9: smash the hanger back flat
Step 10: pry out the top nails
Step 11: do a happy dance
Step 1: Pry the hanging end up with a bar
Step 2: slide out the nails that were previously in the joist
Step 3: hammer a pry bar up from the bottom and then smash out the two face nails
Step 4: move the ladder to the other side of the wall
Step 5: hammer a pry across the top to loosen the top nails
Step 6: move the ladder back to the original side of the wall
Step 7: bend the entire hanger up 90-degrees
Step 8: hammer a pry bar across the top and under the top nails to loosen them
Step 9: smash the hanger back flat
Step 10: pry out the top nails
Step 11: do a happy dance
^^soon to be a top search result for "how to remove a joist hanger" 
Nice ladder silky.
If there were less joists, would you have considered cutting the wood and then ripping the hangers off?
If there were less joists, would you have considered cutting the wood and then ripping the hangers off?
People about my age (mid-30s) will surely remember back to the early 2000s when the rapper Nelly was quite a thing. He turned a bandaid on his face into a fashion statement. Today I attempted to do the same thing. Not wanting to be some lame poser I smashed myself in the face with the claw end of a framing hammer to legitimize the bandaid placement. In retrospect... Not the best of plans.
To add insult to injury, this was on THE FIRST nail of THE FIRST joist hanger I had started to remove!
View attachment 947057
Ouch! At least it wasn't a knocked out tooth.
Half of the hangers were on the south exterior wall, so for those it was never an option due to the fact that it's one of only four load bearing walls in the whole structure. On the non-load bearing partition wall I considered going that route, but since I'm going to build the top "triangle" that attaches to the scissor trusses and I've already got double top plates in-place, I need the triangle studs to align with the lower/main studs of the partition in order to keep it as strong as possible. The joist hangers align with those studs, so that was ruled out almost immediately. Had I envisioned going full height with this wall rather than lofting it, I wouldn't have installed the top plates at all and built continuously from floor to ceiling.
Here's the punchline to that last sentence: I was doing some space planning with my SketchUp model and realized that because of the inner leaf on the ceiling (I have to build in a 3-leaf configuration as opposed to the more preferable 2-leaf) my existing rough opening in the partition wall might not work because of the double top plates. If that's the case I'll be tearing down the entire partition wall and building with studs running floor to ceiling without any top plates interrupting the line. More to come on that.
Think of revisions as enhancements of the prototype. Part of the engineering design cycle.
I want to be the optimistic about the whole thing, haha. That said, when it involves me tearing down a perfectly good wall to remove 1-7/8" of height from the rough opening of a door it becomes a very hard pill to swallow.
I'll be able to repurpose the lumber elsewhere in the build, but it still stinks. Also, if I go full height with the wall I'll need to rent another truck as I'll need some 12' pieces of lumber to get the job done.
Stay positive... Stay positive...
I'll be able to repurpose the lumber elsewhere in the build, but it still stinks. Also, if I go full height with the wall I'll need to rent another truck as I'll need some 12' pieces of lumber to get the job done.
Stay positive... Stay positive...
You're still the envy of the entire readership here; for the skill, ability, sense of humor and perspective. I'd be kicking myself too, but there are a lot of people who are tipping their hat to you throughout this.
Did some more space planning in my sketchup model, and... The interior partition wall has to come down and be built without top plates. Can't align the two door headers with the top plates in-place.
I'm leaving for a vacation on Friday and won't be back until Monday the 26th. At this rate I won't get my final site and insulation inspections until 2017!
I'm leaving for a vacation on Friday and won't be back until Monday the 26th. At this rate I won't get my final site and insulation inspections until 2017!
Good. Then I can expect this thread to continue and I don't have to spend cash on Netflix this year.
- Apr 20, 2009
- 2,620
- 4,666
- Disclosures
- Endorsements: your name could be here, Mr. Sadowsky!
I hadn't thought of it like that, but you're totally right.
Here's a season 2 teaser. The narrative changes, I sell the house and leave the studio unfinished to live a life of beer drinking along the Oregon coast staring at the ocean.
