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My "on the cheap" CNC router build

Back to the drawing board thanks to Bruce, (who probably saved me from wasting a little bit of money!) Reading up on it myself it only makes sense that the hard bearing balls would quickly wear out the softer 1018 steel... I think I have a alternative solution that if it works out will be REALLY cheap.

He's absolutely right. I ran one of the first Linde CNC plasma cutters out of the gate. Everything rode on linear bearings and those ran on hardened steel rails one of which for each axis had a rack on the back side for the drive pinion Both the rail and bearings were adjustable.
 
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Hardened rod came in, also the end retainers.
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After reading, reading and more reading I have decided to build my gantry out of MDF instead of steel. It will not only be easier but also lighter. There's lots of proven stable and rigid mdf machines on the net. The great thing about that is once its done, I can use the cnc to machine out replacement pieces of aluminum and use them for the machine. A self replicating machine.. Terminator warned us about these things.
 
Measure once cut twice? Or something like that. Like Kip and Lafawnda, I guess you can say things are getting serious.

Big guy mdf.. it was a struggle getting it on the table saw.

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I've got the gantry started, it's rolling smooth. It's going to be a little tricky getting it square and level the brace is temporary. I'm at the point tonight where I keep misplacing my tools and knocking stuff over so it's probably time to rest.
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Looks good so far.

It may be a good idea to get some dust covers for the side rails. Those rail bearings will be quickly packed with dust in that orientation. Maybe some brush type gaskets.

How are you planning on making the X/Z feed mechanism? That gantry looks very tall. It may flex badly Z rail get too long relative to the spacing between the X rails.

I would also add some more bracing under the bed for two reasons:

1: Stiffness. The bed my bend from the force of a plunging router bit. This may cause uneven routing. (This can be counteracted slightly if your software support ramping plunge.

2: Noise. Such a large surface area will act more or less like a drum skin. You even have nice sound ports at the sides there. ;)
 
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Looks good so far.

It may be a good idea to get some dust covers for the side rails. Those rail bearings will be quickly packed with dust in that orientation. Maybe some brush type gaskets.

How are you planning on making the X/Z feed mechanism? That gantry looks very tall. It may flex badly Z rail get too long relative to the spacing between the X rails.

I would also add some more bracing under the bed for two reasons:

1: Stiffness. The bed my bend from the force of a plunging router bit. This may cause uneven routing. (This can be counteracted slightly if your software support ramping plunge.

2: Noise. Such a large surface area will act more or less like a drum skin. You even have nice sound ports at the sides there. ;)


The bed will have a mdf waste board that extends over the edges of the bed and covers the rails. That is the reason they are mounted on the sides like they are. I've also got a dust collection system that will be fixed to the router head, but I've been kicking around the idea of fixing some type of brushes to the mounting points of the bearings to sweep the rails. Really its a matter of housekeeping and maintenance. Its a wood shop dust is always going to be a concern, not only for this but all else as well.

The bed is braced very well, although there are no pictures of the bottom side its braced well enough i can stand on it without movement.. its not going to move. :)

The gantry appears tall... but really it's just to have room to contain all of the components and hopefully be able to cover them slightly from dust as well. Most builds I've seen leave it all open and exposed. I'm hoping that i can fit everything inside of it and have a little hood system that covers it up, again for dust control and just to clean up the appearance. The z axis will only have roughly 8" of travel.

I've never heard a router of any type that wasn't loud... man this is a mix of machinery and music.. Isn't louder better? :P
 
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You are giving me that new, cool tool itch. Not to mention that this looks like a very fun and rewarding project. I just don't know If I could get past the programing and software involved in CNC
 
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You are giving me that new, cool tool itch. Not to mention that this looks like a very fun and rewarding project. I just don't know If I could get past the programing and software involved in CNC

That was my initial thought too but it turns out it can be fairly simple when you use the right programs. That obviously depends on application. Body shapes, outlines, pickup routes, neck pockets ect are pretty basic stuff. I just started downloading trial programs to check them out but ultimately like Sketchup 8 which is an older version of Sketchup. With plugins you can do a lot of stuff, even cam work which basically takes a cad drawing and codes it for gcode for the cnc program..

3d stuff like neck shaping, body carves ect will be more in depth. I am going to stay with whats simple while going through the learning curve.
 
That was my initial thought too but it turns out it can be fairly simple when you use the right programs. That obviously depends on application. Body shapes, outlines, pickup routes, neck pockets ect are pretty basic stuff. I just started downloading trial programs to check them out but ultimately like Sketchup 8 which is an older version of Sketchup. With plugins you can do a lot of stuff, even cam work which basically takes a cad drawing and codes it for gcode for the cnc program..

3d stuff like neck shaping, body carves ect will be more in depth. I am going to stay with whats simple while going through the learning curve.

If I were to take the CNC plunge it would be for stuff like pick guards that are not fun to cut by hand, but I could definitely make use of that kind of resource. Either way, that decision will have to wait until I build my shop building, as I don't have enough room for my current equipment at the moment.
 
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I ordered all of the acme threaded rod for this beast, two brass back lash nuts, 3- motor to rod couplers, 4- 1/2" pillow flange block bearings. Total was $83.00

That leaves 8 linear bearings and 1 more back lash nut (different style) to buy later on and the spending money aspect SHOULD be done.
 
I enjoy watching your progress, and appreciate you sharing it here.

I am inclined to think that the vertical supports for your gantry will flex side-to-side (Y axis, depending on your orientation). The choice of material, design and thickness are probably insufficient to resist the lateral forces that will occur as it cuts in that direction, and also as the cutting head changes direction. A simple brace on the outside, oriented vertically and perpendicular to the plane of the upright supports will increase the rigidity while adding minimal weight. Just something you might consider.
 
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