You can do that, or use a long straight edge to the same effect. Rather than waste a set of strings, I used a long straight edge to perform my initial setting out.
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My ultimate Jazz Bass build.
- Thread starter ChickWithaRic
- Start date
You can do that, or use a long straight edge to the same effect. Rather than waste a set of strings, I used a long straight edge to perform my initial setting out.
Use a this DIY set up myself. Couple of steel rules with slides for nut and heel widths.
Gives the centre position and the rule marking do the scale length part. Cost £4
My next major task as I wait for the ash body to reach my front porch will be to cut the headstock, de-fret, re-line the fret positions with maple veneer, oil, wax, and fine finish the interchangeable fretless neck. That's one reason I'll be using six stainless steel machine screws into M4 inserts for the neck mount.
I didn't mention that it's a convertible? Oh. My bad. Consider it now mentioned. I just thought you knew.
I didn't mention that it's a convertible? Oh. My bad. Consider it now mentioned. I just thought you knew.
Exactly. Once you have a centerline, it's all you need. Basic drafting/ setting out skills go a very long way, and are worth taking the time to learn. The simple compass is a mighty tool.Use a this DIY set up myself. Couple of steel rules with slides for nut and heel widths.
Gives the centre position and the rule marking do the scale length part. Cost £4
View attachment 4286936
Use a this DIY set up myself. Couple of steel rules with slides for nut and heel widths.
Gives the centre position and the rule marking do the scale length part. Cost £4
View attachment 4286936
Anything involving straight edges and accurate measuring will work. That's very similar to what I do myself.
Alrighty, here we go. I've been very busy for a few weeks planning to finally re-open our very difficult to re-open business after the 18 months from Hell that we are still enduring, but I did find time this morning to make progress.
First, I installed the threaded neck inserts. These are M4 inserts, x6. If I were using just four, I'd go for M5 or even M6. The directions call for a 6.5mm clearance hole, which I tried in a scrap piece of maple and it was just too easy, so I went to 6mm. The threads were lubricated with beeswax and for each quarter turn into the wood, I backed off 1/8 of a turn. This slow but time tested method of thread cutting allowed me to sink the inserts fully without breaking anything.
Now, when I say "without breaking anything", clearly I lied because if you look at the top two inserts on the left you can see they cracked right at the last moment. This isn't really an issue, mechanically, as they are still doing their job. The thing is here that I goofed and bought a 50 pack of zinc base inserts which are ok for softwood, not so much for maple. For literally 2 dollars more you can buy a 50 pack in stainless steel, which is a more appropriate material.
The lesson I learned here: Don't be a cheap bish, you bish. Two US dollhairs is nothing.
Having said all that, oh my goodness does it ever tighten down like it was part of a suspension bridge or something. I did at least invest in stainless steel machine screws. I'm semi cheap. I'm really happy with the result, overall. Next time, stainless steel all the way through. Got it.
Next, drill thru for the bridge/ string earth with a super long drill bit. I've seen a lot of Fenders routing the string earth thru the neck p'up cavity, and I chose the same path.
I used a twisted pair of wires for no other reason than it is easy to identify. Eagle eyed readers will have noticed that I have installed and reassembled the Babicz bridge.
Normally I would use copper tape and shield all the cavities, but this time I'm not going to as this body will be replaced in due course with one made from ash.
Next I fitted the pickguard and the pickups. The ears of the neck pickup are really tight in the pickguard, but that's an easy enough five minute fix. The pickups are mounted on surgical tubing sleeves around their mounting screws. Again, I lubricated the screws with beeswax, and used a very nice quality German made Wiha brand PH#0 screwdriver to get a perfect 8/8 score of no mashed up screw heads or snapped off screws.
Achievement unlocked.
Then, the control plate. Steady hand, drum roll, and...
I've seen Fenders that don't fit as nicely as that. And yes those are Hipshot control knobs. No, they were not cheap. Yes, they do look the absolute shizz. Yes they are worth 6 bucks a piece. And as for that 3 layer vintage white pearloid pickguard, it cost under $30 and it is the real deal. It catches the light just as a pearloid should. It's not a cheapo print. It's 100% genuine mother of toilet seat.
Having decided that I don't have enough single parent me-time to wire it up today, I chose to string it up and set the Hipshot string retainer in place instead to make it at least look almost done.
First I had to fit the set screws for the tuners. I hate those little b*st*rds. They either run off or get chewed up, or get chewed up, THEN they run off.
8 from 8, perfect score.
I DID A THING!
With the tuners secure, I Rotosounded it up. Yes I like Rotosounds. Roundwound. Nickel on steel. Light gauge. 35 - 55 - 75 - 95. Sue me.
The strings are not to tension and the nut is about 1/8" too high right now. This is a rough cut for positioning only but I just had to see that funky angled Hipshot string retainer on the tele head, because I just wanted it so badly to work aesthetically.
That works for me.
Just needs wiring now, when I have the time to make five connections. Maybe this week.
First, I installed the threaded neck inserts. These are M4 inserts, x6. If I were using just four, I'd go for M5 or even M6. The directions call for a 6.5mm clearance hole, which I tried in a scrap piece of maple and it was just too easy, so I went to 6mm. The threads were lubricated with beeswax and for each quarter turn into the wood, I backed off 1/8 of a turn. This slow but time tested method of thread cutting allowed me to sink the inserts fully without breaking anything.
Now, when I say "without breaking anything", clearly I lied because if you look at the top two inserts on the left you can see they cracked right at the last moment. This isn't really an issue, mechanically, as they are still doing their job. The thing is here that I goofed and bought a 50 pack of zinc base inserts which are ok for softwood, not so much for maple. For literally 2 dollars more you can buy a 50 pack in stainless steel, which is a more appropriate material.
The lesson I learned here: Don't be a cheap bish, you bish. Two US dollhairs is nothing.
Having said all that, oh my goodness does it ever tighten down like it was part of a suspension bridge or something. I did at least invest in stainless steel machine screws. I'm semi cheap. I'm really happy with the result, overall. Next time, stainless steel all the way through. Got it.
Next, drill thru for the bridge/ string earth with a super long drill bit. I've seen a lot of Fenders routing the string earth thru the neck p'up cavity, and I chose the same path.
I used a twisted pair of wires for no other reason than it is easy to identify. Eagle eyed readers will have noticed that I have installed and reassembled the Babicz bridge.
Normally I would use copper tape and shield all the cavities, but this time I'm not going to as this body will be replaced in due course with one made from ash.
Next I fitted the pickguard and the pickups. The ears of the neck pickup are really tight in the pickguard, but that's an easy enough five minute fix. The pickups are mounted on surgical tubing sleeves around their mounting screws. Again, I lubricated the screws with beeswax, and used a very nice quality German made Wiha brand PH#0 screwdriver to get a perfect 8/8 score of no mashed up screw heads or snapped off screws.
Achievement unlocked.
Then, the control plate. Steady hand, drum roll, and...
I've seen Fenders that don't fit as nicely as that. And yes those are Hipshot control knobs. No, they were not cheap. Yes, they do look the absolute shizz. Yes they are worth 6 bucks a piece. And as for that 3 layer vintage white pearloid pickguard, it cost under $30 and it is the real deal. It catches the light just as a pearloid should. It's not a cheapo print. It's 100% genuine mother of toilet seat.
Having decided that I don't have enough single parent me-time to wire it up today, I chose to string it up and set the Hipshot string retainer in place instead to make it at least look almost done.
First I had to fit the set screws for the tuners. I hate those little b*st*rds. They either run off or get chewed up, or get chewed up, THEN they run off.
8 from 8, perfect score.
I DID A THING!
With the tuners secure, I Rotosounded it up. Yes I like Rotosounds. Roundwound. Nickel on steel. Light gauge. 35 - 55 - 75 - 95. Sue me.
The strings are not to tension and the nut is about 1/8" too high right now. This is a rough cut for positioning only but I just had to see that funky angled Hipshot string retainer on the tele head, because I just wanted it so badly to work aesthetically.
That works for me.
Just needs wiring now, when I have the time to make five connections. Maybe this week.
Attachments
As someone who works with steel in commercial/industrial settings (I know very little about woodworking and I absolutely love your thread; I am amazed by your abilities…and a little bit jealous).
That being said, stainless steel is softer than say a grade -2 steel screw or bolt, and if you tighten down with brute force you run the risk of galling the threads, and then you’ll be f****d for sure.
Be sure to use a light coat of anti-seize compound on the screw threads. Maybe you know that already…I don’t know…
I personally wouldn’t use Stainless, but that’s just me. But it does look nice, I’ll give it that…
Not trying to criticize, just trying to be useful in this life…
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I think it looks great, and I'm impressed with your woodworking skills. I used to want to make basses as a side business, but I've never had the space for a workshop.
Thanks, you just reminded me to order a tube of copper grease. Disaster averted
I did cheat by using ready shaped parts - body and neck - but they do arrive in a very "raw" state. The neck especially needed a lot of attention to fret ends, fret leveling, recrowning and polishing. I just took my time, and read an awful lot of online articles.
I use a pair of straight edges, (metric 1 metre metal rules, which are 40" long) along the edges of the neck. I already know the inset of the strings from the fretboard edges by measuring the ideal nut slot positions with a Mitutoyo digital caliper, I know the string spacing from the bridge manufacturer's data sheet (19mm, 0.75"), so with very basic drafting skills, I can go from there and get it absolutely spot on. It sounds a lot more complex than it really is.
A general rule of thumb is, if it looks wrong, it is definitely wrong, and you need to measure everything again, with more care.
I am delighted to say that I now have a fully functional musical instrument.
It seems I only have one half day per week to get things done, which is one of my very few frustrations related to the otherwise deeply rewarding task of being a single parent.
I think I spent my half day wisely. First I finished off the back of the neck where I shaped the headstock, and oiled and waxed all of that. I used a dense natural wool polishing pad in a 4 1/2" cordless angle grinder to achieve a polish. Time is precious.
Whilst we are in the headstock area, I want to give a special mention to the Guyker tuners I have used. This brand has quite the reputation in the geetar community, and it's time we recognized them as bass players too. They are Korean made, and Korea is the new Japan in terms of manufacturing quality. These are the Gotohs of the 21st Century. Affordable, and solid performers. They are also very good looking, with the die cast clover leaf keys which look so much nicer than the usual pressed steel elephant ears.
The tuning ratio is 24:1 and they have zero backlash. Beware inferior Chinese copies using the Guyker brand name, of which there are now many. Buy them direct from Guyker via their website. You won't be disappointed.
There shall now be a short interlude as I wait for my inevitable royalty check from Guyker.
Oh, ok, nothing. Pfft. Thanks guys.
Next I had to cut the nut down to size as it was wayyyyyyyyyy too tall as supplied. It's a bone nut, which is perfectly acceptable. It took around 15 minutes of sanding to reduce it to size. I was reluctant to deepen the slot in the fretboard for the all important reason that I don't possess a 1/8" chisel, and have no intention of spending money on one.
Obviously I wanted all the strings to have the same break angle over the nut, primarily for neatness but also because some people think this is important. Personally I don't think it affects tone or tuning stability in any measurable way at all, but I do like neatness, and so I think we can say "mission accomplished".
Trying my very best to put off the dreaded task of wiring, I cast around to see if I could do something entirely unimportant.
I found something.
Side quest: Fun with angle grinders.
Because of my poor choice of body material, my six recessed neck bolts didn't look as nice as I had wanted, and so I had an idea.
That's not entirely true, I stole an idea from a 1990s Peavey bass that a friend of mine once owned. I had a 3/32" aluminum plate that I had originally bought to fabricate a bracket for my iPhone to mount on my motorcycle, but then I found the exact thing I wanted to make for ten US dollhairs on a well known website, so I was left with this piece of aluminum.
I engaged my 4 1/2" angle grinder and made a thing.
With no excuses left, I had to resort to soldering.
It's not that I can't do it, I just have poor equipment because it's something I rarely do. I did it anyway.
first I joined up all the grounds with a teeny dab of flux (just to be sure) and some of that melty metal wire looking stuff, then put a heat shrink sleeve over all of that. This means everything is earthed to one place. That's called star earthing, which is a silly name for something that is pure common sense. Why make four connections when one will do the same job? I did ther same for the hot leads from the pickups. Three connections. Hard work.
Now I have a signal, I can hook up a tuner, and do some set up.
I used all of Fender's numbers for a Jazz Bass, you can find them easily, but I did set my action a little lower than the Fender numbers.
Here's a really weird bit of weirdness, a one in a trillion thing. When I reassembled the Babicz bridge after installing it (you have to strip a Babicz down to install it, annoying), I set the saddles in a roughly ok position.
I went to set my intonation, and found it was perfect just as I had the bridge set up to my rough guess. That doesn't mean I am skilful at anything, it was just a pure weird 1 in a trillion fluke. I should buy a lottery ticket.
I've not really mentioned the pickups before, because I was reserving my judgement until I had heard them. They have all the right ingredients: Fiber bobbbins, wax potted, alnico-v magnets, waxed cloth leads, standard Fender dimensions and vintage DC resistance values for both pickups. I replaced the manufacturer's branded covers with some covers I sourced from a UK company called Black Dog Music, because they have no sharp edges at all and look a million bucks.
I'm not going to tell you in public who makes the pickups. If you want to know, drop me a PM and it will be our dirty little secret.
I will just say they sound f***ing amazing. I can get every JB sound of this dirty little thing.
And that's it, I guess, it's done. I'm going to try and upload some sound clips over the next week, and even as I write this it's in my lap and I'm playing the bejeezus out of it. It honks, it clanks, it grumbles, and it growls, just like a Jazz Bass oughta do.
I am pleased, beyond pleased with this thing I achieved, and I hope that you have enjoyed this short story of a musical instrument being brought to life.
That was my practise run. Next, the pink one with the ash body, and the same bits and pieces, with lesons learned. Meanwhile, I'm going to enjoy this one.
It seems I only have one half day per week to get things done, which is one of my very few frustrations related to the otherwise deeply rewarding task of being a single parent.
I think I spent my half day wisely. First I finished off the back of the neck where I shaped the headstock, and oiled and waxed all of that. I used a dense natural wool polishing pad in a 4 1/2" cordless angle grinder to achieve a polish. Time is precious.
Whilst we are in the headstock area, I want to give a special mention to the Guyker tuners I have used. This brand has quite the reputation in the geetar community, and it's time we recognized them as bass players too. They are Korean made, and Korea is the new Japan in terms of manufacturing quality. These are the Gotohs of the 21st Century. Affordable, and solid performers. They are also very good looking, with the die cast clover leaf keys which look so much nicer than the usual pressed steel elephant ears.
The tuning ratio is 24:1 and they have zero backlash. Beware inferior Chinese copies using the Guyker brand name, of which there are now many. Buy them direct from Guyker via their website. You won't be disappointed.
There shall now be a short interlude as I wait for my inevitable royalty check from Guyker.
Oh, ok, nothing. Pfft. Thanks guys.
Next I had to cut the nut down to size as it was wayyyyyyyyyy too tall as supplied. It's a bone nut, which is perfectly acceptable. It took around 15 minutes of sanding to reduce it to size. I was reluctant to deepen the slot in the fretboard for the all important reason that I don't possess a 1/8" chisel, and have no intention of spending money on one.
Obviously I wanted all the strings to have the same break angle over the nut, primarily for neatness but also because some people think this is important. Personally I don't think it affects tone or tuning stability in any measurable way at all, but I do like neatness, and so I think we can say "mission accomplished".
Trying my very best to put off the dreaded task of wiring, I cast around to see if I could do something entirely unimportant.
I found something.
Side quest: Fun with angle grinders.
Because of my poor choice of body material, my six recessed neck bolts didn't look as nice as I had wanted, and so I had an idea.
That's not entirely true, I stole an idea from a 1990s Peavey bass that a friend of mine once owned. I had a 3/32" aluminum plate that I had originally bought to fabricate a bracket for my iPhone to mount on my motorcycle, but then I found the exact thing I wanted to make for ten US dollhairs on a well known website, so I was left with this piece of aluminum.
I engaged my 4 1/2" angle grinder and made a thing.
With no excuses left, I had to resort to soldering.
It's not that I can't do it, I just have poor equipment because it's something I rarely do. I did it anyway.
first I joined up all the grounds with a teeny dab of flux (just to be sure) and some of that melty metal wire looking stuff, then put a heat shrink sleeve over all of that. This means everything is earthed to one place. That's called star earthing, which is a silly name for something that is pure common sense. Why make four connections when one will do the same job? I did ther same for the hot leads from the pickups. Three connections. Hard work.
Now I have a signal, I can hook up a tuner, and do some set up.
I used all of Fender's numbers for a Jazz Bass, you can find them easily, but I did set my action a little lower than the Fender numbers.
Here's a really weird bit of weirdness, a one in a trillion thing. When I reassembled the Babicz bridge after installing it (you have to strip a Babicz down to install it, annoying), I set the saddles in a roughly ok position.
I went to set my intonation, and found it was perfect just as I had the bridge set up to my rough guess. That doesn't mean I am skilful at anything, it was just a pure weird 1 in a trillion fluke. I should buy a lottery ticket.
I've not really mentioned the pickups before, because I was reserving my judgement until I had heard them. They have all the right ingredients: Fiber bobbbins, wax potted, alnico-v magnets, waxed cloth leads, standard Fender dimensions and vintage DC resistance values for both pickups. I replaced the manufacturer's branded covers with some covers I sourced from a UK company called Black Dog Music, because they have no sharp edges at all and look a million bucks.
I'm not going to tell you in public who makes the pickups. If you want to know, drop me a PM and it will be our dirty little secret.
I will just say they sound f***ing amazing. I can get every JB sound of this dirty little thing.
And that's it, I guess, it's done. I'm going to try and upload some sound clips over the next week, and even as I write this it's in my lap and I'm playing the bejeezus out of it. It honks, it clanks, it grumbles, and it growls, just like a Jazz Bass oughta do.
I am pleased, beyond pleased with this thing I achieved, and I hope that you have enjoyed this short story of a musical instrument being brought to life.
That was my practise run. Next, the pink one with the ash body, and the same bits and pieces, with lesons learned. Meanwhile, I'm going to enjoy this one.
Attachments
Quick (very quick) sound sample recorded thru the USB audio interface of my Fender Rumble into Audacity.
