• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

NBD: Hagstrom Viking

I have to admit , when I got my Viking ( from ebay auction ) , the neck had so much of a front bow , it would have made a good substitute for a ski jump in the winter Olympics ! . The strings looked like they had been soaked in water for a week , Lots of cracks and chips on body , but it was advertised as gigged condition , so I accepted this .
A hour or so tweeking the trussrod , adjusting the height of the pups , and a new set of flatwounds , slight opening up of the nut grooves , and hey presto , a very good giggable bass ( what I would say as "old school" sound ) ideal for what I want for a Stones Tribute Band !
Still some work to do ...............1) replace the selector switch 2) Replace the jacksocket 3) Open up the string holder slots in the tailpiece .
I still have to come up with a method to stop the head dive though - any ideas ?.
Pete
 
Last edited:
Thanks john_10 again for the wiring diagram , VERY helpfull .
Rewired yesterday , all working fine . Did all the other jobs ( replaced nut , opened up the string retainer grooves , polished frets , etc ) Now its very playable , with that 60`s sound .
Still does a neck dive - working on that .
Used it a rehearsal last night ( Stones Tribute Band )........... even the drummer said throw away your Jazz Bass and use the Hagstrom "thats the sound " !
Thanks
Pete
 
Happen to notice this morning that the tone pot for the neck pup was not working . Took the tone pot out , and found that the earth wire to the pot was broken , and the signal wire was wrapped around the body of the pot ( this typically happens when the pot comes loose , and the owner tries to tighten the nut without stopping the pot from turning - ending up with broken wire )
Quick re solder , and re fit into body , and away we go .
Pete
 
Now settled for a set of Hofner Contemporary Bass Strings 040, 060, 075 , 095 , set with a high action ( I really like to "hit "my strings )
The sound through my Ampeg SVT7 and Markbass 15" cabs using a pick , sounds a bit like a Ricky , but with fingers a real 60`s sound !
Pete
 
Last edited:
I have had my Viking since October, I played it a bit but didn't like the cheap feel and wasn't convinced by the sound either; especially since I got it as a replacement for a Gretsch electromatic g5440; since it was too big with the full 34".
I've tried to sell it unsuccessfully, and after re-reading a bunch of threads, I want to give it another shot.
I think the humbucking settings give the best sound, and I will replace the rotary switch since it cuts out often, and maybe get new knobs since they are cheap looking and feeling.
QC on the bass isn't all that great, I had to shave off some plastic molding bits on the pickup so the pickguard can fit right. It came with Chrome flats, but i'm thinking of putting tapewounds on it, since this guy on youtube has one strung with a set, and they sound great. Anyone else use tapewounds instead of flats?
I also have an epiphone allen woody, which I absolutely love, but the two basses sound different enough to keep both, in case someone is thinking in that direction. (AW > Viking, if I had to chose one)
 
At last band practice ( with the E.Ball Power Slinky strings on ) I found that using it with my Little mark Tube 800 and 2xNY115 cabs , using both pups in humbucking mode , that it cut right through with a"Rcky" type click ( using a pick ) and playing with fingers over the neck pup , real "old school " sound .
I have tried D`Addario chromes 100 to 045 , and found them far too"Boomy "
The only thing I have still got to sort out , is neck dive . I have a wide rubber backed strap with straplocks at moment , but it is only a temp solution .
If you like , I can give you all the dims mine is set to ( pup height , neck relief , action at 12th fret etc ?
I now play my Geddy Lee Jazz less an less , and going for the Viking , more and more .
Pete
 
At last band practice ( with the E.Ball Power Slinky strings on ) I found that using it with my Little mark Tube 800 and 2xNY115 cabs , using both pups in humbucking mode , that it cut right through with a"Rcky" type click ( using a pick ) and playing with fingers over the neck pup , real "old school " sound .
I have tried D`Addario chromes 100 to 045 , and found them far too"Boomy "
The only thing I have still got to sort out , is neck dive . I have a wide rubber backed strap with straplocks at moment , but it is only a temp solution .
If you like , I can give you all the dims mine is set to ( pup height , neck relief , action at 12th fret etc ?
I now play my Geddy Lee Jazz less an less , and going for the Viking , more and more .
Pete
I have TI flats on my fretted Warwick, and LaBella on the pbass/j/and Epiphone, and EB cobalt flats on my fretless. Are your strings flats or rounds?
Yes those measurements would be great! Thank you!
 
These are the sizes that my Hag Viking is set to , as I have said in previous postings , I like a high action because I dig into the strings when playing live .
My Hagstrom Settings ( Ernie Ball Power Slinky Strings 110 , 90, 75 , 55 Roundwound )

Neck relief – string held down at 1st and 12th fret……….0.020 ins

Action at 12th fret – strings free state E string 0.090 ins G string 0.080 ins

Pickup distance - string held down at 12th fret - top of Pup to underneath of string Neck Pup E …….0.160ins G …….0.140 ins Bridge Pup E 0.180 ins G……0.110 ins

Sorry MrUsefulAlien , the sizes are in imperial , as this is the only way my gauge will measure , and also , these sizes are sighted on the gauge so they are NOT precise .
Can I just add that I always play with all four coils on ......position 4 on selector .

Hope this helps

Pete
 
Last edited:
Has anyone moved the strap button from behind the neck to the top horn ?
Have they have a block or dowel installed ?
Because I am rather large around the waist , the Bass seems miles away from me , when standing and playing .
I have seen a more recent pic of a Hag Bass with it there , and have sent a message asking the owner the question about modding it .
Pete
 
I had one of these for a while. It was fun to play (neck dive aside). Mine was modified with Schaller pickups and a replacement bridge, as the stock one is apparently known for misbehavior over time. One reason standard long-scale strings fit is that this is actually a 32" scale, so technically not a "shortie". I found it easy to find a tone I liked, and strung it with TI flats, if I remember correctly. If I had kept it, I would have looked for some lightweight tuners. Nothing could look as gorgeous as the stock ones, but if you're gigging it, a light headstock with a stable hang on a strap is way more important, IMO. Moving the strap pins is another idea I never explored. I sold mine to an up-and-coming female bassist and I have to admit this beauty sure looks better on her than it ever did on me. Fun & gorgeous basses for sure, but definitely not plug-n-play, IME.
 
I searched the Internet yesterday ( well some of it ! ) and found an article about a chap who moved his strap button position to the top horn , with total sucess !
Going to put a block in the upper horn today .


Just out of interest , I measured the scale length of my 2012 Hag Bass and it measured 30.9 ins ( inside of nut to center of bridge )


Watch this space :bassist::hyper:
Pete
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Tbone76
I searched the Internet yesterday ( well some of it ! ) and found an article about a chap who moved his strap button position to the top horn , with total sucess !
Going to put a block in the upper horn today .


Just out of interest , I measured the scale length of my 2012 Hag Bass and it measured 30.9 ins ( inside of nut to center of bridge )


Watch this space :bassist::hyper:
Pete
Thx for clarifying the scale length. Good luck !
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tbone76
This is not a work instruction , this is how I moved my strap button to a new position on the horn of my 2012 Hagstrom Viking Bass
I take no responsibility if you decide to do this ……………………………………..


Started by getting a piece of Mahogany ( from my neighbour ) about 50mm sq and 25mm thick

Placed this on top of the horn , and marked out (as best guess ) the inside shape of the horn allowing for the outer skin of about 4mm .

Cut and sanded the front of the block to fit the inside shape (as best guess), and kept the block small enough to go through the “F”hole in the body . .

Drilled a hole as exact as I could through the centre of the block , of about 2mm dia in from the front .

I then drilled a 2mm hole through the horn on the front of the Hagstrom ( where the strap button was going to fit )

Used an old “G” bass string , fed it through the block , so as the ball end of the string was on the flat side of the block .

Fed the other end of the string through the “F”hole on the Hagstrom , andguided the string through the “F” hole and out through the front .

Now by pulling the string from the front , it pulled the block into place inside the horn .

I did 5 or 6 “dry” runs of pulling the block into place , before putting any glue on the block , just to make sure it would work .

When I put glue ( I used TIGHTBOND ) on the block , the whole process became VERY messy , I kept a damp cloth handy to wipe away any glue that got on the outside of the body of the Hagstrom .

Once the block was in place , I put a small clamp on the bass string to hold it in place , while the glue dried – 48 hours .

Just to make certain the block would be held in place , after the glue had dried , and for extra strength , I mixed some epoxy resin , and using a basting syringe , put some epoxy resin around the block inside .

As I said , this job is NOT for the faint hearted , because there are so many ways you can ruin the bass .
 
  • Like
Reactions: TomB and Haroldo
The way I thought was that it did not cost a fortune , it had a rather large chunk out of the back where the previous owner had smashed it , there are loads of dents and dings on the body , but I could hear something I liked in the sound ( sort of 60`s thump - just what I needed for the Stones Tribute Band I have just joined ) so if I messed it up ......so what ,I still had my Geddy Lee Jazz and my Fretless Jazz .
In answer to your question about the neck dive ......no , but a modified fender strap , with a modified middle piece from a Comfort Strapp , and hey ho it does not dive .
On top of all this , my wife has just bought me a Hagstrom Fitted case for it ( she must like it as well ! )
Pete
 
Last edited:
Just done about 5 gigs with the Hagstrom Viking ...........GREAT !
Only thing I have changed is the strings , now put Ernie Ball Extra Slinky Roundwound
040 060 070 095 . care has to be taken when winding the bottom E (095) around the string post so as not to break it . I think these strings are long scale .
Neck dive - do not notice now I have a (rough on the inside) leather strap . Seems to stay where its put .
I LOVE this Bass , looks good , plays good , sounds good - what more does an old guy like me
need ?

Pete
 

Attachments

  • stones swan.jpg
    stones swan.jpg
    77.8 KB · Views: 105
Last edited: