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NBD! SX 6'er

Thanks for the suggestions! The consensus is to scrap the machine heads and string trees for Hipshot replacement parts.
I can probably make that happen.
Where can I find a different pick guard for it?
Will a drop in pre-amp like an Audere fit it? I am only asking, I might keep it passive.
Thanks for the couple of you that might have enjoyed my clip. I just listened back to it and it sounds pretty sloppy... I should redo it I think...

WOO HOO! Fedex box came today and it's NBD for me now too!

I didn't notice neck dive with my other SX 6ers but this is an alder body that is doubtless lighter. So I'm ready for my "usual" mods.

These include:

1. New strings. Eew those SX strings are nasty! On this one I'm going flats or ground wounds because it's to be a fretless.

2. New string trees. (already notice the strings sticking when I tuned it up) This time i'm thinking those nice Hipshot duals rather than my usual homemade rods.

3. New pickguard. Since it's a burst bass, it'll be tort. I get them at local shop (Pickguardian.com) SX guards tend to be different on each bass so you have to give him the old one and he duplicates it exactly. All my SX basses have had this done.

4. Change wiring. I love to add a series parallel switch (usually push pull on the volume. Sometimes I change from vol-vol to vol-blend or vol-selector switch. Not sure which yet.

5. Add copper shielding. Must say in playing the new bass, that hum level is LOW! I've got totally shielded basses with more hum! Still a tiny bit of "hum goes away when you touch ground" hum remains, so I'll probably shield it just for drill. no biggie.

6. Threaded inserts. I always put threaded inserts into neck joint which seems to improve sustain, feel, and tone of bass. I also put small (4-40) threaded inserts into body for pickguard and control plate. I use black flat head screws with tort which look sharp but I've had rust problems if you don't dip them in varnish! Stainless screws look nice too especially on MOP guards. And don't rust. Inserts keep control plate screw holes from stripping out like they do. (especially important with a audere where battery must be changed)

7. Saw end of headstock off to make "dixiecup" mod to shape. and revarnish. I've had great luck matching SX "nuclear orange" color using "colonial maple" stain. Can't even see the mod.

8. Install Dunlop Straploks. All my basses have them so I can move straps around among them. If I do notice some neckdive, I'll install the rear straplock a couple of inches higher on back of bass to help and just leave the original where it is.

9. Audere. I'm pondering this one. I love the idea of a 6 being active (all my other non-SX ones are) BUT the whole reason for the SX project was to get the Fender passive 6 string idea going. So for now I'm sticking with passive, but an audere does have a lot of appeal. It would be best if I could have BOTH (don't auderes switch back and forth between passive and active?)

10. And of course the biggie: FRETLESS! Dig. I already have a real Ebony fingerboard all shaped to 12" radius from Luthier's Supply ready to go! All I have to do is <gasp> remove the old maple board and glue in the new one. Will be a first for me. I think I'll practice on my Ursa 5 neck first that I also bought to do this to.

Notice here that what I did NOT do was change bridge, pickups, tuners, Pots, jack, or anything else.

LOVE THIS BASS! And when it's done it's going to be KILLER!

By the way, as for the sound clip. forget about all the "aw shucks" stuff about the playing! NOT the point. JUST LISTEN TO THAT BASS! Is it killin' it or what? I just don't get all those folks here who mouth off about SX being "Chinese Junk" and all that. Just listen to that tone. If that bass is not doing the job then I sure don't know what would!
 
!

By the way, as for the sound clip. forget about all the "aw shucks" stuff about the playing! NOT the point. JUST LISTEN TO THAT BASS! Is it killin' it or what? I just don't get all those folks here who mouth off about SX being "Chinese Junk" and all that. Just listen to that tone. If that bass is not doing the job then I sure don't know what would!

Yeah. My honda civic gets me from point a to point b. I would rather be driving something nicer. But even so, I don't see the point in me going on and on about how great my civic is. It's a low-priced car. Nothing special. Nothing awesome. Nothing inspiring. Just a cheap way to get to work.

But, it's your bass, not mine. Glad you are ecstatic about it. I could never be that happy about my new 120 dollar bass. And yeah, I listened to the clip.
 
bassbenj said:
WOO HOO! Fedex box came today and it's NBD for me now too!

I didn't notice neck dive with my other SX 6ers but this is an alder body that is doubtless lighter. So I'm ready for my "usual" mods.

These include:

1. New strings. Eew those SX strings are nasty! On this one I'm going flats or ground wounds because it's to be a fretless.

2. New string trees. (already notice the strings sticking when I tuned it up) This time i'm thinking those nice Hipshot duals rather than my usual homemade rods.

3. New pickguard. Since it's a burst bass, it'll be tort. I get them at local shop (Pickguardian.com) SX guards tend to be different on each bass so you have to give him the old one and he duplicates it exactly. All my SX basses have had this done.

4. Change wiring. I love to add a series parallel switch (usually push pull on the volume. Sometimes I change from vol-vol to vol-blend or vol-selector switch. Not sure which yet.

5. Add copper shielding. Must say in playing the new bass, that hum level is LOW! I've got totally shielded basses with more hum! Still a tiny bit of "hum goes away when you touch ground" hum remains, so I'll probably shield it just for drill. no biggie.

6. Threaded inserts. I always put threaded inserts into neck joint which seems to improve sustain, feel, and tone of bass. I also put small (4-40) threaded inserts into body for pickguard and control plate. I use black flat head screws with tort which look sharp but I've had rust problems if you don't dip them in varnish! Stainless screws look nice too especially on MOP guards. And don't rust. Inserts keep control plate screw holes from stripping out like they do. (especially important with a audere where battery must be changed)

7. Saw end of headstock off to make "dixiecup" mod to shape. and revarnish. I've had great luck matching SX "nuclear orange" color using "colonial maple" stain. Can't even see the mod.

8. Install Dunlop Straploks. All my basses have them so I can move straps around among them. If I do notice some neckdive, I'll install the rear straplock a couple of inches higher on back of bass to help and just leave the original where it is.

9. Audere. I'm pondering this one. I love the idea of a 6 being active (all my other non-SX ones are) BUT the whole reason for the SX project was to get the Fender passive 6 string idea going. So for now I'm sticking with passive, but an audere does have a lot of appeal. It would be best if I could have BOTH (don't auderes switch back and forth between passive and active?)

10. And of course the biggie: FRETLESS! Dig. I already have a real Ebony fingerboard all shaped to 12" radius from Luthier's Supply ready to go! All I have to do is <gasp> remove the old maple board and glue in the new one. Will be a first for me. I think I'll practice on my Ursa 5 neck first that I also bought to do this to.

Notice here that what I did NOT do was change bridge, pickups, tuners, Pots, jack, or anything else.

LOVE THIS BASS! And when it's done it's going to be KILLER!

By the way, as for the sound clip. forget about all the "aw shucks" stuff about the playing! NOT the point. JUST LISTEN TO THAT BASS! Is it killin' it or what? I just don't get all those folks here who mouth off about SX being "Chinese Junk" and all that. Just listen to that tone. If that bass is not doing the job then I sure don't know what would!

Those are all good mods. I'm thinking about a pretty big change to the headstock. Plug the G and C string tuner holes, make it a 3 per side headstock and remove a pretty good amount of wood. We'll see how much neckdive there is when it arrives.

Regarding the new fretboard, it looks like the trussrods are rear loaded from the skunk stripes on the OP's bass (not visible on Rondo's pictures), so the neck is one piece. So rather than removing a maple fretboard you'll have to plane a bunch of wood away to install the new board.
 
Just ordered mine today! Well sorta...it's a christmas present from the girlfriend;) But i can't wait none the less! I only own 4 bangers right now so this is just for fun. I'm almost considering grabbing the matching 5 string just because it's so cheap and they would look great next to each other on my wall...:hiding:

:bassist::bassist:
 
Have you done this before? Can we see some pics?

Don't have any pics of my SX in modded condition (way behind on taking photos of herd), but I have done this to several Ursa headstocks. With those in light maple color I just saw, sand and recoat edges with minwax rub-on urethane finish. With the orange necks I match color with "colonial maple" stain and then apply minwax.

The "dixiecup mod" looks like this:
(It's not mine, I just took it off of TB, but it's the one I used as a model for mine and they look just like this. Only mine aren't lefty)

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
I just ordered me one of the 6 string models last night. I have never owned an SX before but for the money I have heard that they can't be beat. A six string for that price was hard to pass up, and this will probably be my first bass that I try to make some mods on. Looking forward to my first SX!! :hyper::hyper::hyper:
 
Sorry, but IMO, the Dixie-cup mod only makes it look worse.

Obviously everybody is not going to agree when it comes to taste. Just like some have a deadly hate for the stock Ursa shape. Which, by the way, I am not one! I'm not one to get uptight over the shape of ANY headstock! But I liked the Dixie-cup mod because:

1. I thought it went better with the Fender-clone body shape by being less "pointy" and "angular". (as a number of people here have also felt)

2. I happened to notice with my modded SX sitting next to my G&L that the Dixie-mod gives you headstock very similar to a G&L but missing the "eye-poker"! And that sort made my basses have a more similar appearance.

But you've got it best, because doing ANY mod to the headstock is obviously a bigger pain in the butt than leaving it stock! Lucky you!
 
Yeah. My honda civic gets me from point a to point b. I would rather be driving something nicer. But even so, I don't see the point in me going on and on about how great my civic is. It's a low-priced car. Nothing special. Nothing awesome. Nothing inspiring. Just a cheap way to get to work.

But, it's your bass, not mine. Glad you are ecstatic about it. I could never be that happy about my new 120 dollar bass. And yeah, I listened to the clip.

Hey, I used to own a block long Cadillac. handled like a swimming pool, got 11 miles to the gallon. Every time I got in the car I'd ask myself: "Is this trip REALLY necessary?" If the answer was "no" I'd get out and go back in the house!

Point is a Civic is a great little car, but what if you paid HALF what other cars of the same class were going for? Plus you noticed that it only had half the repairs of a Beemer and they cost less too! Is that not something to talk about?

Well, hey. If you can't get excited about a $120 bass, have I got a deal for you! I'll sell you my custom SX! Personally hand tweaked in by me! Classic Fender design! Beautiful custom pickguard in color and design of your choice. Great resonant tonewood ash 3 piece body (Fender MIM glue a pile of sticks together and others use cheap soft wood). Vintage bent metal Jazz bridge for classic tone and exclusive 70's pickups spacing! And you can have this beauty to get excited over for only two grand! :)
 

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