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NBD..torture......

#81
for me my dislike of nitro is only based halfway on it's poor durability, it also sucks to spray, sand and prep for, many of the oily exotic woods used in bases today would cause all kind of ishues with nitro and god help you if you get any kind of contaminant in your air supply, fish eyes,shrinkage, wrinkles, no thanks im not dealing with that crap for the sake of tradition.
urethanes flow from a spraygun so much better and flow out so much smother its like night and day, if you don't believe me ask anyone who airbrushed what theyd rather paint with
 
#82
gpx1200 said:
for me my dislike of nitro is only based halfway on it's poor durability, it also sucks to spray, sand and prep for, many of the oily exotic woods used in bases today would cause all kind of ishues with nitro and god help you if you get any kind of contaminant in your air supply, fish eyes,shrinkage, wrinkles, no thanks im not dealing with that crap for the sake of tradition.
urethanes flow from a spraygun so much better and flow out so much smother its like night and day, if you don't believe me ask anyone who airbrushed what theyd rather paint with
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I spray urethane as well, it builds faster, and dries overnight. But I definitely wouldn't say it is any easier to apply, the prep work is the same for both finishes, and the only time I have had adhesion problems is if the wood was contaminated with something, or that it was used on something that the solvent would lift. Urethane does flow out better because Nitro flashes very quickly. You can work around this mixing your finish 4 parts nitro, to one part lacquer retarder.
 
#85
Hopkins said:
I spray urethane as well, it builds faster, and dries overnight. But I definitely wouldn't say it is any easier to apply, the prep work is the same for both finishes, and the only time I have had adhesion problems is if the wood was contaminated with something, or that it was used on something that the solvent would lift. Urethane does flow out better because Nitro flashes very quickly. You can work around this mixing your finish 4 parts nitro, to one part lacquer retarder.
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shure you can work around all of nitros ishues but whats the point? with all the vast improvements in coating technology why cling to such an outdated inferior product? I have been a comershal painter for over 20yrs ive painted trains,cars,boats, cabinets,banks,shopping malls everything you could think of and I can not think of one logical reason to use nitro over other much better available options.
seriously what is so great about nitro??
 
#86
Congrats! She's a beauty! I'm getting an SR1806 (6 string version) in several weeks and I appreciate your review.

gpx1200 said:
... I bought this bass fully intending on putting a clearcoat on it myself, I have seen how bad these basses can get beat up and im an aggressive player so it will be getting a nice thick layer of high gloss clear to protect it along with a oil rubbed satin clear on the neck.
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I was contemplating refinishing it the same way... Once you do it can you please take pics and detail your process for me?
 
#87
pacojas said:
^^^^ i am very happy that you, at least, still use Nitro!!!:)
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I use it as little as possible, but some customers insist on it. I use a catalyzed urethane 95% of the time.

gpx1200 said:
shure you can work around all of nitros ishues but whats the point? with all the vast improvements in coating technology why cling to such an outdated inferior product? I have been a comershal painter for over 20yrs ive painted trains,cars,boats, cabinets,banks,shopping malls everything you could think of and I can not think of one logical reason to use nitro over other much better available options.
seriously what is so great about nitro??
Click to expand...

I don't care for nitro, I would rather spray urethane, but nitro is still probably easier to spray. Nitro has one major advantage to the DIY finisher as well. It works well in a rattle can for a reasonable price. A two part catalyzed urethane can be bought in a rattle can, but its expensive and has a very short pot life, so there is no saving for later.
 
#88
Matthew_84 said:
Congrats! She's a beauty! I'm getting an SR1806 (6 string version) in several weeks and I appreciate your review.



I was contemplating refinishing it the same way... Once you do it can you please take pics and detail your process for me?
Click to expand...
thanks im rely happy with it, ill be waiting until spring and warmer weather before I do the refinish then I will post some pics, im hoping it will be a straight forward clear job, just a good cleaning with some wax & grease remover a quick scuff with some 400 grit and then blast it but I don't know if any of those wood layers have stain on them of if its all natural , thats wear the tricky part comes in I might have some taping and restaining to do and making a clean straight line with stain is not easy, something tells me that mahogany on the back is not natural, I know when I sanded off my sr500 it was a lot lighter than whats on my 1800
 
#89
gpx1200 said:
thanks im rely happy with it, ill be waiting until spring and warmer weather before I do the refinish then I will post some pics, im hoping it will be a straight forward clear job, just a good cleaning with some wax & grease remover a quick scuff with some 400 grit and then blast it but I don't know if any of those wood layers have stain on them of if its all natural , thats wear the tricky part comes in I might have some taping and restaining to do and making a clean straight line with stain is not easy, something tells me that mahogany on the back is not natural, I know when I sanded off my sr500 it was a lot lighter than whats on my 1800
Click to expand...

Just a good cleaning should be all you need. I doubt you need to scuff the wood to give it any tooth, adhesion shouldn't be a problem. It may not be a terrible idea to give it a sealer coat of shellac to avoid any compatibility issues, but that's probably not necessary either.
 
#90
Hopkins said:
Just a good cleaning should be all you need. I doubt you need to scuff the wood to give it any tooth, adhesion shouldn't be a problem. It may not be a terrible idea to give it a sealer coat of shellac to avoid any compatibility issues, but that's probably not necessary either.
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ill probably use a cataylized conversion varnish like duravar or klearvar from ml cambel it's similar to catalyzed urethane but intended for wood, it's self sealing,high build low shrinkage and gets real hard and resists scratches and solvents/stains.
I have done a few basses with it lately and it's working out well bolth on high gloss bodys and satin necks.
I mostly plan on sanding because I can feel the raised edges of all the laminations and acent stripes on the body but I will most likely put some clear down first then sand these rough spots to lessen the effect on the surrounding wood
 
#91
gpx1200 said:
ill probably use a cataylized conversion varnish like duravar or klearvar from ml cambel it's similar to catalyzed urethane but intended for wood, it's self sealing,high build low shrinkage and gets real hard and resists scratches and solvents/stains.
I have done a few basses with it lately and it's working out well bolth on high gloss bodys and satin necks.
I mostly plan on sanding because I can feel the raised edges of all the laminations and acent stripes on the body but I will most likely put some clear down first then sand these rough spots to lessen the effect on the surrounding wood
Click to expand...

As long as its a post cat lacquer I'm sure its good stuff. I have experimented with pre cat lacquer with absolutely terrible results.
 
#92
Why on earth would anyone have to wait 24hrs to unbox an oil finished natty bass? I thought this applied to hard finishes like lacquer and thin poly...is there a reason a very lightly finished instrument would need to acclimate for such a long time? I'm pretty sure the "wait" stickers are applied arbitrarily to all of their boxes in order to cut down on high ticket wRranty claims, but I may be missing something?
 
#93
petrus61 said:
Why on earth would anyone have to wait 24hrs to unbox an oil finished natty bass? I thought this applied to hard finishes like lacquer and thin poly...is there a reason a very lightly finished instrument would need to acclimate for such a long time? I'm pretty sure the "wait" stickers are applied arbitrarily to all of their boxes in order to cut down on high ticket wRranty claims, but I may be missing something?
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I think it's more about warpage and delamination than finish ishues.
different woods that are glued together may expand and contract in different ways when exposed to drasticly changing temp/humidity witch could cause delamination or cracking in extreme cases, is it likely to happen probably not but why take a chance?
I didn't wait 24hrs my bass showed up after 4 pm and I fell asleep waiting for it to aclimate
 
#94
That is one beautiful SR gpx - congrats! Ibanez makes some really nice basses for the price point. I'd sure like to try out a Premium SR to hear the difference in sound over my SR600 & SR705 with the Bart system, but nobody seems to have any around here that I've seen.

Excellent choice! Hope you love your SR like I do mine.
 
#95
gpx1200 said:
thanks im rely happy with it, ill be waiting until spring and warmer weather before I do the refinish then I will post some pics, im hoping it will be a straight forward clear job, just a good cleaning with some wax & grease remover a quick scuff with some 400 grit and then blast it but I don't know if any of those wood layers have stain on them of if its all natural , thats wear the tricky part comes in I might have some taping and restaining to do and making a clean straight line with stain is not easy, something tells me that mahogany on the back is not natural, I know when I sanded off my sr500 it was a lot lighter than whats on my 1800
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'd really appreciate it, especially since it sounds like you know what you're doing.

And I agree with you about the mahogany staining. I've seen a few SR500's where the dark/reddish stain was scuffed up and the natural wood was clearly visible, and it certainly wasn't anywhere near the orange sort of colour that's on the 1800's.
 

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