It's never been an issue with me as I don't think I would buy something extreme like a thunderbird or anything else without an upper horn. There's just too much out there with good ergonomics to settle for anything less.
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Yeah, I agree. A strap to the headstock is pure cornpone. Just too goofy. Make the body heavier, hell, laminate a 3/8 inch thick piece of lignum vitae to it, make the pickups out of uranium, tie a helium balloon to the headstock. We need SOLUTIONS people. Sorry, I worked for a guy who said that because no one could come up with excuses for his screw-ups
They alreday got it somehow, but what if like this strap, but the second one that's wrapped around the horn went up to the head instead:
Instead it - the wraparound - should be place on the other one and go right up to the headstock with the same wraparound as this:
And the regular strap go down at the regular strap knob at the horn. Of course it should be adjustable and made longer/shorter depending on individual needs. If you look at the "Skip Battin" way, now we've established that moniker, I do think the weight isn't so much above all shoulder, it's more likely on the back of the shoulder. Of course, you should as well be able to choose between wide or narrow straps but me personally thinks that it needs to be wider just above the shoulder, and the rest could be as thin as possible. Same with the padding.
Instead it - the wraparound - should be place on the other one and go right up to the headstock with the same wraparound as this:
And the regular strap go down at the regular strap knob at the horn. Of course it should be adjustable and made longer/shorter depending on individual needs. If you look at the "Skip Battin" way, now we've established that moniker, I do think the weight isn't so much above all shoulder, it's more likely on the back of the shoulder. Of course, you should as well be able to choose between wide or narrow straps but me personally thinks that it needs to be wider just above the shoulder, and the rest could be as thin as possible. Same with the padding.
I've been playing fender and fender-like instruments for about 25 years now, and have not had any problems regarding neck dive. Some of them were heavy altogether, but no neck dive.
From my experience;
1) if your body is not too light or your neck and tuners too heavy and,
2) if the strap button is around the 12th fret or below, you're good.
From my experience;
1) if your body is not too light or your neck and tuners too heavy and,
2) if the strap button is around the 12th fret or below, you're good.
Go to any guitar store of your choice. Put a Fender Jazz on your knee in the seated playing position. Let go of the neck. Does it drop? That's neck dive by my definition, and I've NEVER picked up a Jazz (including my own Warmouth Jazz fretless, which has a particularly heavy ash body) that doesn't do this. Where are all these well balanced Fender Jazz basses, been searching for years without success, it's the one thing that puts me off any bass from the getgo.
In my experience, basses on which the front strap button is further up the neck than the 12th fret are more susceptible to neck dive.
I understand what you're saying, and I respect your opinion, but... Personally? This is the only instrument I put on my knee....
I've had 2 Jazzes and a Precision that never really had any balance issues, but notably my early Wal (with the big paddle headstock) was terrible, in fact unplayable, on the strap and I rarely played it live. My Ray34 and StingRay both balance perfectly as does the Corvette.
Those that have never experienced neck dive should count themselves lucky - it inhibits dexterity like nothing else when most of your left hand effort goes into holding the neck up.
Those that have never experienced neck dive should count themselves lucky - it inhibits dexterity like nothing else when most of your left hand effort goes into holding the neck up.
The only Fenders products I have played that had neck dive were some really cheap 80's imports. They must have had a basswood body and a rock maple neck. Basically the wrong weight in the wrong places.
Otherwise, it's mostly about having good top horn placement and smart bridge placement.
Otherwise, it's mostly about having good top horn placement and smart bridge placement.
The PFR pickups in these Iceman basses are great, but they should have reversed the shape & put the horn on top:
Yeah, that looks to buck all reasonable design constraints in the book, but I guess someone thought it was a good idea...
I think it’s a “first world problem” easily fixed in most cases with some creative thinking. I’ve been a fan of Warwick thumb basses and people are constantly posting about neck drive with them.
I had the thumb bo5
Thumb nt5
And now nt6
With the combination of a huge strap and a weighty metal wireless pack I no longer have any neck dive issues.
Now sure there are some cases where neck dive is so extreme there not much youncan do about it but fight with playing and holding the neck at the same time. The one bass I’ve owned that comes to mind like that was the esp viper-404 (SG shape) I had.
Neck dive happens in developing countries as well.
I can't stand it myself, but I have enough trouble just holding my arm up in the air to fret the notes for long periods.
I can't stand it myself, but I have enough trouble just holding my arm up in the air to fret the notes for long periods.
I tried to find some methods for pre determining the balance of an instrument in building, my brain vapor-locked at the word “Centroid”. Sounds math-related, and therefore incomprehensible to my lizard brain. I guess the truth is that many instruments are designed to look good first rather than balance right, a T-Bird the most classic example, Gibson EB styles also notorious. I haven’t found a better method when designing a body than to make up a full sized mock-up in plywood, and that’s only a rough guide since plywood is pretty heavy. I suppose you could start with an oversized body and just keep paring away at it until it balances.
