need your help deciding ...

[bass theory]

I am building 2 semi-hollow arch top basses 1 @ 30.3"scale the other 34"scale.

My plan was to make the top by cutting wedge strips of Cherry and align them radiating out from the center. they are to be stained in alternating colors.

Here is a piece of Cherry, very similar to the wood I will be using. It is stained with Walnut (dark) and Oak (light) side by side. this was to get an idea how the strips would look on the final bass top.

 

[markwrob]

My suggestions are in terms of alternation patterns. Sug. 1 is to use a symmetric strip pattern starting from one in the center. Sug. 2 is to try an offset pattern like flooring; maybe a bowling alley lane; but maybe the pin markers would be too much.

 

[bass theory]

My suggestions are in terms of alternation patterns. Sug. 1 is to use a symmetric strip pattern starting from one in the center. Sug. 2 is to try an offset pattern like flooring; maybe a bowling alley lane; but maybe the pin markers would be too much.

I'll try to keep the pin markers down by the bridge

 

[Winslow]

It's an interesting idea. When I hear about cherry wood furniture, etc. I usually think about the stains running more toward red. I guess it's just convention, but if cherry is finished to look like maple, I'd almost wonder why.

In this case, with alternating strips in a radiating pattern, I think it would look cool to have the finishes run in closely-coordinating shades, darker than the two options above. Sort of like "red plus darker red."

But it's your project, so good luck with it either way!

 

[Jon Clegg]

In this case, with alternating strips in a radiating pattern, I think it would look cool to have the finishes run in closely-coordinating shades, darker than the two options above. Sort of like "red plus darker red."

+1

 

[bass theory]

It's an interesting idea. When I hear about cherry wood furniture, etc. I usually think about the stains running more toward red. I guess it's just convention, but if cherry is finished to look like maple, I'd almost wonder why.

In this case, with alternating strips in a radiating pattern, I think it would look cool to have the finishes run in closely-coordinating shades, darker than the two options above. Sort of like "red plus darker red."

But it's your project, so good luck with it either way!

I am not locked in yet which is the reason for this thread. Cherry is a naturally red wood, and it is beautiful. However cherry stain often looks unnatural, like when your girlfriend dies her hair purple. but i am definately considering maple and a nice red cherry stain. In fact i could use those woods instead of all cherry. But i am really considering 2 dark shades. I just happened to have those stains and decided to try them.

 

[Winslow]

...like when your girlfriend dies her hair purple.

Hey, don't knock it 'til you try it, bud!

 

[Reedt2000]

@ctmullins just built something along the lines of what you're talking about, and with cherry too:

G3 (inspired) build

 

[ctmullins]

Thanks for the tag @Reedt2000 !

Cherry is a wonderful instrument wood. It’s nicely closed-grain, it is gorgeous under a finish, it’s domestic to North America, it’s plentiful, and it has structural properties quite similar to maple.

I’ve built a fair few instruments with cherry, and they’ve all been finished with a clear-coat, either oil or poly, and cherry under oil is just beautiful.

The most recent is this one, with cherry alternated with walnut, in a radiating-wedge pattern:

It turned out so well I immediately started another!

 

[PsyDocHill]

Hey, don't knock it 'til you try it, bud!

You said it. I had a girlfriend who dyed her hair purple and I could've should've married her there and then . @BassTheory, Brother, stick with whichever colors make you the happiest. Dye cherry any color you want. It's about what you like, man

 

[bass theory]

Thanks for the tag @Reedt2000 !

Cherry is a wonderful instrument wood. It’s nicely closed-grain, it is gorgeous under a finish, it’s domestic to North America, it’s plentiful, and it has structural properties quite similar to maple.

I’ve built a fair few instruments with cherry, and they’ve all been finished with a clear-coat, either oil or poly, and cherry under oil is just beautiful.

The most recent is this one, with cherry alternated with walnut, in a radiating-wedge pattern:

View attachment 4181634

It turned out so well I immediately started another!

That is a truly awesome instrument, I love it. One o fthe most beautiful basses I have seen. If I was making solid bodies I might steal your design and never tell you. lol j/k.

 

[ctmullins]

Thanks, you're too kind! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with here!

 

[BarfanyShart]

I love the idea, it will be cool and unique. There is something to be said for the very traditional colors, it's a classy way of incorporating the unorthodox top design. For me, personally, I might be more interested in rocking it in transparent blue and yellow - but I understand that's not for everybody.

 

[Dean N]

Arch top with pre-stained pieces for a top glue-up? Will the stain penetrate well enough to survive shaping? I'd be concerned that you may sand or plane through the stain, and/or need to touch up the stain after shaping, which could compromise the high contrast of two stains and really screw with your plan of the whole concept.

Consider dyes, maybe?

Cherry and maple are prone to blotching. And when shaping cherry, there can be all sorts of surprises that pop up (gum pockets, anyone?)

I don't want to be a Debbie Downer.. your plan (which I really dig, and I love cherry) will need to be carefully thought through.

@ctmullins , I don't recall if I commented on the LC about that bass but it's fantastic. I always love your use of woods.

 

[MYLOWFREQ]

IMHO, unless there's an intense contrast between the two stains they don't look good. The pic OP posted looks like an unfinished job rather than an artistic choice.

 

[iiipopes]

I am building 2 semi-hollow arch top basses 1 @ 30.3"scale the other 34"scale.

This is a mechanics of hardware post, if not off-topic, focus: strings. Whatever scale length you choose, there will be players for both of your recommended scale lengths. The topic of this post is string length. Being that semi-hollow is the anticipated construction, what kind of a tail piece are you contemplating, how far back from the bridge saddles will you contemplate the string anchor, and how are you designing the headstock?

The reason for these questions is that I would suggest you contemplate the ball anchor to tuner side of nut length very carefully, so that you don't unnecessarily limit yourself to the makes, models and gauges of strings available.

For example:

A Harmony H-22 is a short scale bass, but the anchor is at the tail of the instrument, so this bass uses regular long scale strings.

A Hofner 500/1 is a 30-inch short scale bass. But because of the distance from the bridge saddle back to the ball anchor, either a La Bella special "Beatle Bass" set or what other manufacturers call a medium scale set are necessary.

A vintage-style Mustang is through-body. So again, a short scale set strung through body may be too short, and again, La Bella makes a 760-MUS set for the string through.

By contrast, a Gibson EB-3, top-load MusicMaster and Bronco, and others, take a "true" short scale set.

On the other end:

An Epiphone Jack Casady bass is a 34-inch scale, but because it uses the compact 3-point bridge, it uses regular long scale strings.

If the tailpiece ball anchor is separated from the bridge too far on a long scale bass, even extra-long or super-long scale strings may not have enough wrap to clear the nut.

Please consider these items, including consulting manufacturer's winding length charts for their various scales, when designing your bridge and tailpiece setup. Thanks.

 

[dkelley]

Thanks for the tag @Reedt2000 !

Cherry is a wonderful instrument wood. It’s nicely closed-grain, it is gorgeous under a finish, it’s domestic to North America, it’s plentiful, and it has structural properties quite similar to maple.

I’ve built a fair few instruments with cherry, and they’ve all been finished with a clear-coat, either oil or poly, and cherry under oil is just beautiful.

The most recent is this one, with cherry alternated with walnut, in a radiating-wedge pattern:

View attachment 4181634

It turned out so well I immediately started another!

wow, beautiful, and a 10 string! Looks like it tips the hat to the gibson ripper (not a copy at all, though), but with Fender style pickups, and that body wood/finish is just amazing!

 

[bass theory]

Since there are questions about whether or not fitting together pieces like this would have a good tone, or whether the gluing and unevenness would ruin the tone. When they are finished I will record them in use, and post here. Since I am really a noob on bass, I might try to get a better bass player who is local to play them for such a recording.

I have a nephew who is a really good bass player, who I might ask. he even has access to a professional studio, but I doubt it is free. But he is in Chicago area, and I would hate to risk shipping these. Maybe I could take them to Guitar center, and ask players there to do it. (and get myself permanently banned from ever setting foot inside a GC again)….. Sigh
I might just have to do it myself. but if I do please on critique the instruments not the bassist lol.

 

[bass theory]

This is a mechanics of hardware post, if not off-topic, focus: strings. Whatever scale length you choose, there will be players for both of your recommended scale lengths. The topic of this post is string length. Being that semi-hollow is the anticipated construction, what kind of a tail piece are you contemplating, how far back from the bridge saddles will you contemplate the string anchor, and how are you designing the headstock?

I appreciate the information about string length on hollows. these will be my 3rd and 4th hollows, and i have run into this before
the bridge and tailpieces have already been purchased for both. they will both be 5 string tune-o-matics with a separate tailpiece which anchors directly to the body. The body design takes this into account. The area where they will be mounted has not been hollowed out, and the arch at that point, will be minimal by design. these are exactly the same bridges and tailpieces used by Ibanez in their Artcore 5 string hollows. they do not demand longer than normal strings. However, as i decided to mount the tailpieces 2" away from the bridge, I purchased a set of medium scale strings just in case. on the full scale bass. I have used this exact configuration before and there were no issues.

The bridge system on this bass is the one i purchased.
Amazon.com: Ibanez AGB205 5-String Electric Bass Dark Violin Sunburst: Musical Instruments

 

[bass theory]

today i hollowed out the body for the short scale. here is a pic, the router work is done, except for rounding the edges over. The sanding has yet to begin. I also tried 6 different finishes to compare. unfortunately, the photo is not good enough to pass judgement on.