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Here's how to determine your preferred freq marks and figure out "o'clock" frequencies.

Here's the generic graphic I made. The compass is there for calculations, the clock because alot of us think in those terms.:
working generic.jpg

Here's the finished item again and the three finished workup charts (HPF, Low Mid, High Mid). Where lines intersect the rim of the knob are the positions were interested in. I labeled the clock position freqs and the red line freqs I picked 'cause they were easy to remember. You can choose your own.
faceplate.jpg workup hpf 02.jpg workup low mid 02.jpg workup hi mid 02.jpg

So, here's the math.
For each knob, a Hz Per Degree (hpd) has to be calculated. In other words, how many hz are contained in each degree of the compass. It'll be the multiplier and divisor for all other calcs for that knob only.

Using the Low Mid Freq knob...
workup low mid 02.jpg
...as the example, we see the entire freq range is from 150hz to 1800hz. That freq range spans 300 degrees on the compass (all knobs are 300 degrees from 7 to 5 o'clock).

So, what's the Hz Per Degree (hpd)?
(1800hz - 150hz) / 300deg = 5.5hpd

5.5hpd is used for any calcs you wanna do on this knob.

-Where is 400hz?
((400 - 150hz) / 5.5hpd) + 30deg = 75.45deg
On the diagram, run a line from the center of knob to the 75.5deg compass heading. Rounding the answer is fine.

-What frequency is at 10 o'clock?
*note that 10 o'clock is 120 deg on the compass.
((120deg - 30deg) x 5.5hpd) + 150hz = 645hz
On the diagram, 645hz is on the line from the center of knob to the 120deg heading on the compass.

And that's it. The above three equations did what I'd wanted for each knob.

This isn't measured by test equipment, and there is a fudge factor involved. Agedhorse said the 300deg range sounds right, with the caveat that in actual practice, it's usually a little less. Works for my purpose of putting a few more visual references on my amp.

If this is helpful to you, have a ball.
Edit: forgot to mention, this is good for the WD800 and Plus DI Preamp also.
 
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Here's how to determine your preferred freq marks and figure out "o'clock" frequencies.

Here's the generic graphic I made. The compass is there for calculations, the clock because alot of us think in those terms.:
View attachment 3319934

Here's the finished item again and the three finished workup charts (HPF, Low Mid, High Mid). Where lines intersect the rim of the knob are the positions were interested in. I labeled the clock position freqs and the red line freqs I picked 'cause they were easy to remember. You can choose your own.
View attachment 3319943 View attachment 3319945 View attachment 3319946 View attachment 3319947

So, here's the math.
For each knob, a Hz Per Degree (hpd) has to be calculated. In other words, how many hz are contained in each degree of the compass. It'll be the multiplier and divisor for all other calcs for that knob only.

Using the Low Mid Freq knob...
View attachment 3319946
...as the example, we see the entire freq range is from 150hz to 1800hz. That freq range spans 300 degrees on the compass (all knobs are 300 degrees from 7 to 5 o'clock).

So, what's the Hz Per Degree (hpd)?
(1800hz - 150hz) / 300deg = 5.5hpd

5.5hpd is used for any calcs you wanna do on this knob.

-Where is 400hz?
((400 - 150hz) / 5.5hpd) + 30deg = 75.45deg
On the diagram, run a line from the center of knob to the 75.5deg compass heading. Rounding the answer is fine.

-What frequency is at 10 o'clock?
*note that 10 o'clock is 120 deg on the compass.
((120deg - 30deg) x 5.5hpd) + 150hz = 645hz
On the diagram, 645hz is on the line from the center of knob to the 120deg heading on the compass.

And that's it. The above three equations did what I'd wanted for each knob.

This isn't measured by test equipment, and there is a fudge factor involved. Agedhorse said the 300deg range sounds right, with the caveat that in actual practice, it's usually a little less. Works for my purpose of putting a few more visual references on my amp.

If this is helpful to you, have a ball.
Edit: forgot to mention, this is good for the WD800 and Plus DI Preamp also.
th.gif
 
I'm not convinced that knowing the "exact" numbers are as important as tuning the functions by using your ears. This is how we do it (or used to do it before the "digital revolution") in the pro audio world.
 
I'd be curious where 40Hz point on the HPF falls.
Knowing were 50Hz is would also be good...
Assuming you're talking the D800+, here ya go.
Full workup:
01.jpg
Cleaned up for clarity:
02.jpg

What's the Hz Per Deg (hpd)?
(150hz - 30hz) / 300deg = 0.4hpd

Where's 40hz?
((40hz - 30hz) / 0.4hpd) + 30deg = 55deg

Where's 50hz?
((50hz - 30hz) / 0.4) + 30deg = 80deg

Haroldo came up with the same compass locations, so double verified LOL.
 
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Assuming you're talking the D800+, here ya go.
Full workup:
View attachment 3320169
Cleaned up for clarity:
View attachment 3320170

What's the Hz Per Deg (hpd)?
(150hz - 30hz) / 300deg = 0.4hpd

Where's 40hz?
((40hz - 30hz) / 0.4hpd) + 30deg = 55deg

Where's 50hz?
((50hz - 30hz) / 0.4) + 30deg = 80deg

Haroldo came up with the same compass locations, so double verified LOL.
these are pretty cool, but I'm a little confused about application. Are these expected to be attached to the faceplate of the amp somehow, behind the knob, or are these just very detailed references points ?
 
Well I finally sold some gear, one cab out, one new cab in. Subway 212. First impressions, thick and consistent through the lower range. Mids are present but pretty smooth, even more so than my last cabinet which had a little more than I needed. Looking forward to my first gig this Thursday with it. Go Subway!
2019-02-12 14.21.38.jpg
 
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these are pretty cool, but I'm a little confused about application. Are these expected to be attached to the faceplate of the amp somehow, behind the knob, or are these just very detailed references points ?

The original application was to place some dots at certain frequency points around the HPF, Low and High Mid knobs of my choosing on my D800+. I just wanted quick visual references. I knew, going in, these would be not accurate, guesstimates only. But I was gonna place those dots as best I could LOL.

Yeah, it's a lot of garbage and math to place some dots LOL.

Regular faceplate:
03.jpg

Dotted faceplate, my whole intention:
04.jpg

HPF dots are 60, 90, 120hz
Low Mids are 400, 800, 1200, 1600hz
High Mids are 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000hz


These dots are not needed, they are ballpark-ish accurate, and only a personal preference.
 

Yes Subway 212. Very nice cabinet. It's what I hoped it would be. edit...just wanted to add..this cabinet meets my expectation..it's on the same level of quality I have come to experience through other Mesa products and anything else Andy@agedhorse designs. I'm sure Mesa appreciates working with him.
 
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Here's a photo of the WD eq to roughly match. Ample room to adjust further if you'd like.

And also, here's a little sound clip. First pass is V4 at noon, second pass is WD at noon, Third pass is WD with pictured EQ. Recorded into a Tascam and through a Subway 112. Quick and dirty. It's worth noting that the V4 is a bit scratchy sounding and that's not an issue on the WD :)



View attachment 3318722


Nice playing.

Notice you went through twice with the WD. I have a hard time putting my bass down when I'm playing through it too! Sounds soooo fine
 
Well I finally sold some gear, one cab out, one new cab in. Subway 212. First impressions, thick and consistent through the lower range. Mids are present and more even than my last cabinet which had a little more than I needed. Looking forward to my first gig this Thursday with it. Go Subway! View attachment 3320252

If the mids of the 212 are more than you need you may want to dial down the passive mids on the WD a bit.
 

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