Hey Andre, can the monorails be installed in the bass body without the plate underneath them?
And if they are installed in that way, what’s the tightest spacing you can get if you put them right next to each other, will it be at 16.5mm?
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New product discovered! NOVA headless bridge / guitar hardware
- Thread starter Lesfunk
- Start date
And if they are installed in that way, what’s the tightest spacing you can get if you put them right next to each other, will it be at 16.5mm?
Passini
Commercial User
- Dec 11, 2018
- 66
- 164
- Disclosures
- Guitar and bass bridge manufacturer, called NOVA Guitar Parts
Hi Barticus, Yes it can be installed without the base plate, because it has an individual base (for each barrel) ... the minimum distance is 13 mm, so 16.5 mm is fine.
This is what's kicking me as the individual base plates are 6.5 mm thick with a resulting minimum string height of 16.3 mm. I need to be closer to 14 mm without countersinking or adding a too-aggressive shim.
On a brighter note, the grouping of individual lock-downs would bring me in well-under 45 mm.
Riis
If you don’t want to route into the body for the base plate, why not just grind the thickness of the base plate down to what you need?
Has possibilities but runs the risk of the finish flaking-off. I also imagine there's a thickness threshold required to "capture" the locking intonation screw.
Riis
Passini
Commercial User
- Dec 11, 2018
- 66
- 164
- Disclosures
- Guitar and bass bridge manufacturer, called NOVA Guitar Parts
Is it possible to make a plate that allows for width adjustments?
Was thinking the same, myself. IIRC, Kahler manufactured a similar non-tuner bridge with spacing-variable saddle sleds.
For Sale - Kahler 2440-N5 Five String Bass Bridge, Fixed, Gold
Not sure how practical it would be with the Nova format...there's a whole lot squooze into a relatively compact footprint. I would just sketch things out on graph paper and go with the separate components. It's tedious but, if you check and re-check your measurements, I think you'll be pleased with the outcome. Tape the template to the face of the body as a guide. Even with standard bridges, I do placement dry-runs using thin elastic cord to verify string alignment.
On a side note: I'm giving more thought to finding a local woodworker who knows how to use a a router. I'm figuring on routing a recess of ~5 mm which is the distance from the bottom of the spacer to the bottom of the actual tuner assembly. The spacer is spec'd at 6.5 mm but it's also possesses a U-shaped cradle.
Riis
I have no issues routing for individual tuners, but find a single bridge a more elegant solution. I’m considering Nova for multiple future builds, but spacing will be the limiting factor for me.
If the spacing is not an issue for you than I would just route the body that’s a 10 minute fix with the proper template.
Actually, it is. I have an 18 mm bridge installed but there was no wiggle room for even the slightest of errors. I'd be more comfortable with 17-17.5 on this particular neck.
Riis
Passini
Commercial User
- Dec 11, 2018
- 66
- 164
- Disclosures
- Guitar and bass bridge manufacturer, called NOVA Guitar Parts
Unfortunately not
... my supplier just make big amounts (100 sets minimum) and I don't know if I design a model like you mentioned, it will sell or i will keep those parts in stockThat's a good question tho.
I’m engineering a work-around…this project WILL work eventually. Everything is subject to refinement & revision so I’ll add my 2 cents…
Based on the reviews of others and my own measurements and observations, I’d look more closely at minimizing the thickness of the “cradle” base saddles and providing a shim set (various thicknesses) when installing the individual assemblies. I’m not sure how much female thread would be required for adequate “grab” by the intonation lock-down screw, though. Dingwall used a similar approach with the non-tuner monorails on the earlier Combustion models.
Riis
Based on the reviews of others and my own measurements and observations, I’d look more closely at minimizing the thickness of the “cradle” base saddles and providing a shim set (various thicknesses) when installing the individual assemblies. I’m not sure how much female thread would be required for adequate “grab” by the intonation lock-down screw, though. Dingwall used a similar approach with the non-tuner monorails on the earlier Combustion models.
Riis
Couple addt’l questions:
*Is there an optimal mounting angle for the lock-downs? My headstock transitions to a tilt-back which will require a re-work so the slope is even / smooth. I’ve seen some fairly severe modifications where the lock-downs end up parallel with the fingerboard but on a lower “tier”.
*Should the lock-downs be “grabbing” the full-thickness string wraps or does it work equally-well with the thinner diameter taper?
Riis
*Is there an optimal mounting angle for the lock-downs? My headstock transitions to a tilt-back which will require a re-work so the slope is even / smooth. I’ve seen some fairly severe modifications where the lock-downs end up parallel with the fingerboard but on a lower “tier”.
*Should the lock-downs be “grabbing” the full-thickness string wraps or does it work equally-well with the thinner diameter taper?
Riis
By sheer coincidence, that’s how many licks it takes to get to the center of a Tootsie-Pop.
Riis
If I understand your question, you’re asking if the grub screws need to bite into the thicker part of the string or if it’s okay to be on the smaller tapered part of the string?
I have a bunch of headless basses, on a typical 34 inch headless I find that the grub screws are typically biting into the thicker part of the string. If it’s going to be further up and clamping down on the tapered or thinner part of the string, it really depends on the string type and how fragile it is - you always need to be careful not to clamp down too hard and break the core of the string. I’ve had really good success with nickel hybrid, stainless steel, etc. where I’ve run into difficulty is with flat wound strings in that some of those are pretty fragile and they’ll actually unwind once you clamp down onto the flat wound part of the string. I had this problem with Labella Golds I couldn’t use those because every time I clamped down they would just unwind and break the core of the string.
Kinda thought so…the lock-downs will need to be proximal to the nut…UNLESS I go with extra-long strings. Here’d the deal: if I move the anchors further up the headstock remnant (…away from the nut), I’ll hit real estate that’s flatter and 47 mm wide which will accommodate the one piece multi-string lock-down.
Riis
- Apr 18, 2008
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- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
In my experience, clamping down on the tapered portion of the string works fine.
(I don't do flats...)
(I don't do flats...)
This makes sense but it depends on the string. Case in point and using Dunlop SuperBright RW's and TI Jazz Rounds as opposing examples:
*The SB's use a step-down taper which has the same basic wrap character as the full-thickness. For that fact, the low B's taper measures in at .080 which essentially the same as a full thickness A...the E / A / D dial-in .07 / .06 / .05 roughly. The sizes are in spec but unsure as to whether the loss of wraps would make the core wire more vulnerable.
*The TIJR's have a gnarly-ass asymmetrical taper with a pronounced overwrap running the length. Not sure how they'd respond once cinched-up.
Riis
