Some schematics for Squier basses show 500K pots instead of 250K. Tone control capacitors on P-basses have changed over time as well.
One piece of advance preparation that you can perform yourself, is to pull the pickguard, and see what components are in there now. A pot stamped with 250KA is an audio taper pot, for example. If the tone control capacitor has 683 printed on it, then it's a 0.068mfd cap.
Once you know those numbers, it's easier to determine whether you want to go up or down in value...
If you don't have soldering equipment/skills, you might want to talk to your tech in advance about setting you up with some clip leads and different components. That way, he can set you up in a corner while you noodle around with different capacitor and/or pot values. No point paying him to solder it all up until you've found a setup that's a keeper for you.
Just to be clear, here are your options:
- Change the capacitor size. Changes how far down into the midrange the tone control operates. Smaller values leave more of the mids present when the control is rolled all the way off. Possible values might be .1mfd, .068mfd, .047mfd, .033mfd or .022mfd.
- Change the potentiometer slope. Changes how quickly the highs ramp off as you roll the knob back, and how much fine control you have at the extremes. Pots can be linear or audio taper.
- Change the potentiometer value. As mentioned previously, 250K loads the pots down for a smoother, more "vintage" tone. 500K lets a little more treble through, for extra bite.
- Another option is to either use a "no-load" pot to take the tone control right out of the circuit when it's wide open, or install a mini-switch to do the same thing. Disabling the tone control in this way unloads the pickups still further, giving some extra grind when you're in a punky mood.
Note that none of these mods change the tone when the knob is turned all the way down, without affecting the tone control's performance through the rest of the rotation.
If already you like the tone control action everywhere except fully counter-clockwise, why not simply back it off a bit?
Most passive basses that I've owned, including my $2,000-plus Dingwall, are a bit too bassy for my taste when rolled all the way off. Most people are more concerned with the taper and sound between wide open and about 25%...
One piece of advance preparation that you can perform yourself, is to pull the pickguard, and see what components are in there now. A pot stamped with 250KA is an audio taper pot, for example. If the tone control capacitor has 683 printed on it, then it's a 0.068mfd cap.
Once you know those numbers, it's easier to determine whether you want to go up or down in value...
If you don't have soldering equipment/skills, you might want to talk to your tech in advance about setting you up with some clip leads and different components. That way, he can set you up in a corner while you noodle around with different capacitor and/or pot values. No point paying him to solder it all up until you've found a setup that's a keeper for you.
Just to be clear, here are your options:
- Change the capacitor size. Changes how far down into the midrange the tone control operates. Smaller values leave more of the mids present when the control is rolled all the way off. Possible values might be .1mfd, .068mfd, .047mfd, .033mfd or .022mfd.
- Change the potentiometer slope. Changes how quickly the highs ramp off as you roll the knob back, and how much fine control you have at the extremes. Pots can be linear or audio taper.
- Change the potentiometer value. As mentioned previously, 250K loads the pots down for a smoother, more "vintage" tone. 500K lets a little more treble through, for extra bite.
- Another option is to either use a "no-load" pot to take the tone control right out of the circuit when it's wide open, or install a mini-switch to do the same thing. Disabling the tone control in this way unloads the pickups still further, giving some extra grind when you're in a punky mood.
Note that none of these mods change the tone when the knob is turned all the way down, without affecting the tone control's performance through the rest of the rotation.
If already you like the tone control action everywhere except fully counter-clockwise, why not simply back it off a bit?
Most passive basses that I've owned, including my $2,000-plus Dingwall, are a bit too bassy for my taste when rolled all the way off. Most people are more concerned with the taper and sound between wide open and about 25%...
