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New Traynor YBA 100!!
- Thread starter qwench
- Start date
500W amp into 300W cab (same impedance) requires you to be quite careful with your volume management but sure, there will be no damage if you don't play too loud.
Meanwhile the 100W YBA 100 you can turn up as loud as it gets
Your cab is your limitation, you wont get much more out of the Orange than you get out of your 200watt head before you damage your cab IMO. It's a 2x8 so it's never gonna flap your pants no matter how much power you throw at it. You need more speakers (another RS28V if yours is 8ohm) or a cab with more efficient speakers, not more amp.
The Traynor certainly wont be louder than your current head through that cab, and here I disagree with @a-37 if you crank the lows you could still smoke that 2x8 350watt cab even with 'only' 100 watts.
Mine has arrived! Will be heading out at lunch to pick it up.
Yeah, true I guess. But you'd pretty much have to specifically try and see if it can't take everything you got and I'd imagine you'd start noticing it can't handle the subsonics mechanically before you actually blow it. Or maybe not... Maybe better don't try it unless you want to have an excuse for buying new cabs
Anyway, the TB 500 to the same cab is rather the opposite, you'd quite easily damage it long before reaching max rotation on all the knobs it has...EDIT: and, oh, Waltsdog is of course right, more speaker cone area is needed if you want noticeably more volume
Well here it is!
First impression is that it sounds very full, warm, and punchy on the low string (through the TC115NEO). The only other bass heads I have experience with are the SB500H and Little Stubby. It sounds miles better than the stubby (not sure it's a fair comparison due to wattage), and much fuller on the low end than the SB500H. I do not dig the deep setting as it adds too much of a scoop, but the resonance button as it adds a nice low/lowmid punch to the sound that I'm digging. With the gain at max it's a bit harsh for my liking, but I will never run it that high. Very responsive to dynamics and volume as well. Backing off to 8-9 cleans it right up.
I played for about 15 minutes then put the bass down and noticed a crackling sound coming from the amp (with nothing playing through it). I adjusted the bias on the back as one set of tubes was set much cooler than the other and it appears to have gone away. Will crank it up after work and see how it goes. My first thought is a bad preamp tube as I've heard of this before but will report back.
First impression is that it sounds very full, warm, and punchy on the low string (through the TC115NEO). The only other bass heads I have experience with are the SB500H and Little Stubby. It sounds miles better than the stubby (not sure it's a fair comparison due to wattage), and much fuller on the low end than the SB500H. I do not dig the deep setting as it adds too much of a scoop, but the resonance button as it adds a nice low/lowmid punch to the sound that I'm digging. With the gain at max it's a bit harsh for my liking, but I will never run it that high. Very responsive to dynamics and volume as well. Backing off to 8-9 cleans it right up.
I played for about 15 minutes then put the bass down and noticed a crackling sound coming from the amp (with nothing playing through it). I adjusted the bias on the back as one set of tubes was set much cooler than the other and it appears to have gone away. Will crank it up after work and see how it goes. My first thought is a bad preamp tube as I've heard of this before but will report back.
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I gave it a 10 minute coffee break jam and cranked it up a little. It sounds great! It is very bassy though and the string balance is way off to my ear. Have to drop the low end quite a bit to balance it out. Does anyone know what the "flat" setting is? I don't believe everything at 5 relates to this tone stack does it? Is this one of those 2/10/2 stacks?
Regardless the amp sputtered and cut out once during this session so I'm pretty sure there is a bad preamp tube as the tube protection should catch the power tubes if there are any issues. I already emailed L&M to see if they can do some investigation. Hopefully they can chuck in a new set of tubes for me and not have to send it back to Traynor.
On a positive note I love the leather handle! Very classy and great quality!
Regardless the amp sputtered and cut out once during this session so I'm pretty sure there is a bad preamp tube as the tube protection should catch the power tubes if there are any issues. I already emailed L&M to see if they can do some investigation. Hopefully they can chuck in a new set of tubes for me and not have to send it back to Traynor.
On a positive note I love the leather handle! Very classy and great quality!
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I just grabbed one as well. I'm running it through a Traynor TC210 cabinet.
Initial thoughts:
It's really, really good. Very reminiscent of the YBA300, but more hair when you crank up the gain. The tone is very full and punchy, and the semi-parametric mid is fantastic for dialing it into the sweet spot of the bass you're using.
I haven't given it a huge workout with effects yet, but at first blush, it takes them super well.
Congrats on a fantastic sounding amp, Traynor!
Initial thoughts:
It's really, really good. Very reminiscent of the YBA300, but more hair when you crank up the gain. The tone is very full and punchy, and the semi-parametric mid is fantastic for dialing it into the sweet spot of the bass you're using.
I haven't given it a huge workout with effects yet, but at first blush, it takes them super well.
Congrats on a fantastic sounding amp, Traynor!
I hope this turns out to be minor and works out easily for you.Thanks for keeping us posted
Sorry guys, family stuff came first (changed the alternator in my daughters car).
I could only unbox and pose. Too late to make a peep. Ill be cranking it this weekend at band practice (Ill ease it in slowly before that). Ill report back.
Unbox (sorry for the mess in my music room):
Here it is on my two lightest cabs (where I plan to use it). At least it is hooked up and turned on...
I could only unbox and pose. Too late to make a peep. Ill be cranking it this weekend at band practice (Ill ease it in slowly before that). Ill report back.
Unbox (sorry for the mess in my music room):
Here it is on my two lightest cabs (where I plan to use it). At least it is hooked up and turned on...
@GrapeBass - How do we decode the serial number? I see @Roxbororob has 0080406. I have 0080396.
I am guessing that the "8" refers to august completion. Are the last 3 digits the production number? and if so, have you made over 400 already? Or is the "03" and "04" the date in august on which the unit was made and the last two digits a production number? Or is it all a big secret? In which case we can just make up our own conspiracy theories.
I am guessing that the "8" refers to august completion. Are the last 3 digits the production number? and if so, have you made over 400 already? Or is the "03" and "04" the date in august on which the unit was made and the last two digits a production number? Or is it all a big secret? In which case we can just make up our own conspiracy theories.
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LOL
The first digit denotes the year but only the "0" of 2020. not sure why, but that's what we've been using for eons.
The next 2 digits are the month of manufacture. This is pretty loose as we may print the serial numbers earlier than the actual run.
The last four digits are sequential, they do not follow the specific product. So, if we built 665 units prior to the YBA100, the first YBA100 may be #0080666 (as an example).
So you can never have a longer than 10 years production life cycle for any item and products from different decades may have the same serial number? I.e. serial number alone does not uniquely identify a product, you also need to know which model is in question, or does the item always have a year of manufacture printed somewhere as well so you can encode the meta serial number from the year and the actual serial number?
I mean weird yet fascinating in a strange way...
After canceling my initial order WAY back in February, I went ahead and pulled the trigger (again) last night. I mean, c'mon....it's supposed to be "More Gooder than regular good!"
So you can never have a longer than 10 years production life cycle for any item and products from different decades may have the same serial number? I.e. serial number alone does not uniquely identify a product, you also need to know which model is in question, or does the item always have a year of manufacture printed somewhere as well so you can encode the meta serial number from the year and the actual serial number?
I mean weird yet fascinating in a strange way...
There are/were incidences where serial numbers have been repeated but (as far as I know), not on the same product. Ahm yes, there were/are a few products that transcend a decade, I believe.
Especially if a product is released later in a decade, it's almost for certain it will cross decades. Does that mean a serial number could appear to be older when in fact it is younger, e.g. a case where you have a product released in say the 8th year of a decade that finishes being produced in the 3rd year of the next decade, the oldest would be starting with 8 and the youngest with 3. If that's the case then a person might think it is sequential with the oldest starting with 3 and the youngest starting with 8 when in reality it is the opposite.
the product would need to be in production for exactly 10 years to the 'month' to have similar serial numbers... let's say an old Traynor 6400 built in August 1975, the serial number would begin with 508... if it were also made in August 1985, the serial number would begin with 508. In most industries, a product would have a manufacturing lifespan way less than 10 years, in ours, who knows...
Sorry for opening that can of worms.
Next time I'll just posit some bizarre conspiracy theory and you can simply deny.
