Not another Tele build! Yawn

[Beej]

It's funny, that's more or less the opposite of my experience!
I suppose I should say I've never used either product on a guitar, only on furniture. But I definitely found the osmo to be thicker than the rubio.




If you look at the osmo website, they say 2 coats if using a brush or roller, and at least 4 coats if using a rag.

Interesting, when you've used Rubio, was it with the Accelerator?

 

[Flying B]

Interesting, when you've used Rubio, was it with the Accelerator?

Yes, as I understand it, it will dry without the accelerator but it takes a loooooong time.

 

[Flying B]

Here's that repair i patched in the other day. It looks ok, I may try and improve that glue line a bit, we'll see after it's properly sanded in.

I got the fretboard cleaned up today with an 80 grit radius block, and got the headstock scoop finished. Still needs a bit of tweaking where the maple burned a bit, but looking pretty good overall.

 

[Beej]

If you hadn't mentioned it, I'd never have known there was even a patch there. It looks like a bit of different grain.

 

[Flying B]

If you hadn't mentioned it, I'd never have known there was even a patch there. It looks like a bit of different grain.

I'll take that as a win! Now I look at it, what I thought was a glue line might actually be a line of grain on the piece I glued in.

 

[Flying B]

The rattle I mentioned earlier didn't go away even when tightening the truss rod up, so I made the decision to remove the rod from the rear of the neck. It seemed the less destructive option than removing the fretboard.
This is the high tech holding jig for the neck. (You can see this was taken after I had already routed the groove).

Then I just clamped two pieces of MDF to guide the router cutter.

Rod has been liberated!

I have an offcut of the birds eye maple which will make a nice skunk stripe.

 

[Flamingo21]

How do you make sure not to damage the rod during routing?

 

[Flying B]

More luck than judgement! I knew roughly how deep the rod was, so when I was close I took very shallow passes until I saw the rod. I just kissed the top of it with the cutter but no harm done.

 

[Beej]

And patience yields results.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

As they like to say on the woodworking shows, “Sneak up on it.”

 

[ctmullins]

More luck than judgement! I knew roughly how deep the rod was, so when I was close I took very shallow passes until I saw the rod. I just kissed the top of it with the cutter but no harm done.

You’re lucky I read this before I started drinking! Else my response would have been totally inappropriate….

 

[Flying B]

the rod will definitely need some lube before it goes back in that slot

 

[ctmullins]

Glad to know I’m not the only giggling teenager trapped in a mature adult’s body!

 

[rudy4444]

It's funny, even tho it's literally called Rubio "MonoCoat" I see just about every woodworker applying a second coat to "bump up the sheen". I wonder if Osmo could benefit the same way.

Having used both Rubio Monocoat and Osmo Poly-X I much prefer Poly-X. Osmo's official application instructions call for a second coat, so they obviously feel that the user needs to at least do that.
After experimenting with both of these "hard oils" I've found that sanding beyond 220 prevents proper application. If the wood surface isn't sufficiently "porous" then the product can't penetrate and bind to the wood cells as it is designed to do.

Osmo is available in a few different sheens, but I love satin finishes, especially on necks.

 

[Flying B]

Got the truss rod back in and the skunk stripe glued in. Cheeky clamp henge for a Wednesday.

 

[Max Bogosity]

Glad to know I’m not the only giggling teenager trapped in a mature adult’s body!

Remember what the great philosopher said.

 

[Flying B]

Planed flush.

No more rattle. And it looks killer, so win/win!

I found some osmo in the cupboard at work so I tested a bit on this spare piece of maple, looks good to me. Looks slightly more orange in the picture than real life.

 

[Isaac_James]

Planed flush.
View attachment 5352856

No more rattle. And it looks killer, so win/win!

I found some osmo in the cupboard at work so I tested a bit on this spare piece of maple, looks good to me. Looks slightly more orange in the picture than real life.

View attachment 5352862

I really like the "inverse" skunk stripe look you get from the light wood strip embedded into the dark neck shaft (it's closer to what an actual skunk looks like).

 

[Flying B]

Haven't had a lot of time on this recently but I managed to get the side dots in today. For quite a while, for whatever reason, luminlay was not available here in the UK, but I noticed the other day that they are finally shipping here again so I ordered this stuff with the black tube. Arrived from Japan in less than a week.

 

[Isaac_James]

@Flying B, I've been following along here and I am starting to plan my own Telecaster build (I have one that does the classic Tele thing but I want to make one with a neck P90 and a bridge rail humbucker). Your thread here is one of a number that have inspired me to want to try this myself, so thank you!