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Novel take on "dead spots"

Feb 19, 2003
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Montreal, Qc
Alright. We all know it’s been over discussed:
The dreaded “dead spot”.

I’ve been blessed for 30 years. I played bass without suspecting the existence of “dead spots”.
My 1st bass was headless. For many years, I strung it BEAD. My next main bass was an Ergodyne 5-stringer. And finally, I’ve mostly played a G&L L-2500. All have been completely free of “dead spots”.

Then, I entered the realm of the P bass. And suddenly, “dead spots” were a thing.

Let’s go over the common knowledge about the phenomena:

-“Dead spots” appear most frequently on the G string, between the 3rd and 7th fret.
-They consist in a note played on that part of the neck that dies prematurely.
-The note at that fret plays softer and dies faster, quickly going into decaying harmonic frequencies.
-A “dead spot” has to do with the bass vibrating in a way that absorbs the fretted string’s frequency.
-Playing the same note on the D string, rather than on the G, will not trigger the same “dead spot”.
-The problem is not confined to a few basses: it’s very common.
-Changing strings (lighter gauge) and neck tension is often mentioned as a solution.
-Adding weight to the headstock is often quoted as a possible solution too.
-Most solutions involve “moving the dead spot” around the neck, rather than resolving it.
-As the theory goes, playing with the weight and mass of the instrument has an effect.

And last but not least:
-Most bassists learn to live with “dead spots”, so should you.
-You don’t need that one note to sustain forever.


I was discussing all of this with a luthier friend of mine. He told me: “Sure! You can also simply hollow out a bit of the bass’ body. Pick somewhere that’s hidden by the pickguard. Take out some mass at the center and you’ll give more relative weight to the headstock. That should move your dead spot

That’s a novel idea... What do you think?

Or, do you have any novel idea about resolving a “dead spot” that’s not been mentioned already?
 
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Several years ago, I hunted up - and read - as many "real, scholarly, scientific" articles on the subject as I could. And, from what I read? Yes, your luthier friend is right. That is one possible solution to solving/lessening the problem. The main point that was stressed in all the stuff I read, was the necessity of thinking of the body and the neck as a complete system; both contributing to the frequency damping problem - and the solution to it. So, yes, adding weight to the bass' body can help. One thing I found particularly interesting, though, was an article that stressed the neck joint on bolt-on neck basses. It said that the tightness/looseness of the neck plate screws controls the coupling of the body and neck; thus, it can both introduce/mitigate the dead spot. So, since my '78 P-Bass had a slight dead spot in the usual spot, I messed with them. First thing I did was to loosen the two... inboard, IIRC... screws about 1/16th of a turn. I was very surprised to find that the dead spot just... went away, never to return. As long as the screws were left alone, anyhow. Since then, I've always been careful to check the tightness of those screws, on the rare occasions that I've had to loosen them. One of the reasons it wears flats; I haven't had to mess with those screws for years...:cool:
 
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Several years ago, I hunted up - and read - as many "real, scholarly, scientific" articles on the subject as I could. And, from what I read? Yes, your luthier friend is right. That is one possible solution to solving/lessening the problem. The main point that was stressed in all the stuff I read, was the necessity of thinking of the body and the neck as a complete system; both contributing to the frequency damping problem - and the solution to it. So, yes, adding weight to the bass' body can help. One thing I found particularly interesting, though, was an article that stressed the neck joint on bolt-on neck basses. It said that the tightness/looseness of the neck plate screws controls the coupling of the body and neck; thus, it can both introduce/mitigate the dead spot. So, since my '78 P-Bass had a slight dead spot in the usual spot, I messed with them. First thing I did was to loosen the two... inboard, IIRC... screws about 1/16th of a turn. I was very surprised to find that the dead spot just... went away, never to return. As long as the screws were left alone, anyhow. Since then, I've always been careful to check the tightness of those screws, on the rare occasions that I've had to loosen them. One of the reasons it wears flats; I haven't had to mess with those screws for years...:cool:
I've been huge on this concept these last few years the topic has been in vogue here and haven't seen you or anyone else really tap into it until this fine essay on the matter. I love bolt-on basses but overtightening them as I tend to do always concerned me, in particularly what the effect could be on the neck wood, almost got into the practical science of it but have been offing basses lately. it's a moot point now that I have a bass that is near perfect and the amazing neck is half of it's charm, each string / fret is consistent with the others in every way, you can bet I won't touch a thing if I don't have to.
 
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Sure! You can also simply hollow out a bit of the bass’ body. Pick somewhere that’s hidden by the pickguard. Take out some mass at the center and you’ll give more relative weight to the headstock. That should move your dead spot
I'd be interested in seeing a test that showed this mod worked as described, ie a before and after on the exact same instrument.
I'm very skeptical though.
 
Why is it that neither my two sixers or my NS/Stick have dead spots?
It's been reported that dead spots occur more frequently on 4 string basses. It has to do with how the whole instrument vibrates. Mass, size, type of bridge and type of strings, the tension on the neck, etc. All that matters into the equation. And apparently, 5 and 6 string basses have enough mass to nullify the "dead spot" issue.
 
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Several years ago, I hunted up - and read - as many "real, scholarly, scientific" articles on the subject as I could. And, from what I read? Yes, your luthier friend is right. That is one possible solution to solving/lessening the problem. The main point that was stressed in all the stuff I read, was the necessity of thinking of the body and the neck as a complete system; both contributing to the frequency damping problem - and the solution to it. So, yes, adding weight to the bass' body can help. One thing I found particularly interesting, though, was an article that stressed the neck joint on bolt-on neck basses. It said that the tightness/looseness of the neck plate screws controls the coupling of the body and neck; thus, it can both introduce/mitigate the dead spot. So, since my '78 P-Bass had a slight dead spot in the usual spot, I messed with them. First thing I did was to loosen the two... inboard, IIRC... screws about 1/16th of a turn. I was very surprised to find that the dead spot just... went away, never to return. As long as the screws were left alone, anyhow. Since then, I've always been careful to check the tightness of those screws, on the rare occasions that I've had to loosen them. One of the reasons it wears flats; I haven't had to mess with those screws for years...:cool:
Pardon my ignorance. But, could you be more descriptive and specify which screws you mean by "two... inboard, IIRC... screws".
Thanks.
 
Pardon my ignorance. But, could you be more descriptive and specify which screws you mean by "two... inboard, IIRC... screws".
Thanks.
No problem. Looking at the back of the bass, with the neck pointing up? I consider the 2 screws at the top of the neck plate (close to the top edge of the body) to be the "outboard" screws. Conversely, I consider the screws at the bottom edge of the neck plate to be the "inboard" screws...:cool:
 
upload_2022-5-5_20-55-29.jpeg

Look up Fat Finger.
Cheers,
Paul
 
Instead of adding weight to a headstock or carving out into an existing instrument's body, couldn't installing a lighter bridge make a difference?
Only if you're looking at it from the perspective of weight being a major determinant. Seems the trad Fender shapes seem to have the deadspot in a similar place so it seems to me more likely to be geometric. But I have no proof, and most of the arguments put forth for why and how are based on anecdote.
 
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Any novel solution?
A couple;
Headless, see the Phil Kubicki article on this and as an extension of this, the smallest, lightest headstock you can get. I saw in a YT video a while back this explained by taking a wooden ruler clamped to a desk and plucking the piece over the edge. The smaller it is, the higher in frequency it vibrates/resonates at. Higher frequencies are more easily damped than lower ones are.
Make the neck and headstock as stiff as possible for the same reason, and also multiple laminate necks of different materials so that the inherent qualities of each material are averaged or spread by those adjacent which will lower the Q of the resonance, making it less noticeable or dead.
 
A couple;
Headless, see the Phil Kubicki article on this and as an extension of this, the smallest, lightest headstock you can get. I saw in a YT video a while back this explained by taking a wooden ruler clamped to a desk and plucking the piece over the edge. The smaller it is, the higher in frequency it vibrates/resonates at. Higher frequencies are more easily damped than lower ones are.
Make the neck and headstock as stiff as possible for the same reason, and also multiple laminate necks of different materials so that the inherent qualities of each material are averaged or spread by those adjacent which will lower the Q of the resonance, making it less noticeable or dead.
That explains why my 1st ever bass, an Ibanez Axstar, a headless 4 string bass, which I strung BEAD for the longest time, never had a dead spot.
 
That explains why my 1st ever bass, an Ibanez Axstar, a headless 4 string bass, which I strung BEAD for the longest time, never had a dead spot.
None of my many headless basses have deadspots and they're of different constructions.
However, the above is my theory only and is not proven, and is based on my own experience, but makes sense to my engineer's brain. Hopefully it gives you and others something to think about.

PS: what is your avatar pic? Makes me think of Sean Rowe.
 
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