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NPB: Temple Audio Design Duo 17

Still waiting for the delivery to finish up -
Brown Dog
Agent 00 Funk
Trans-Boost

But the silly long zip ties came in!!

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Was never a fan of using Velcro on my pedals. First board is a holey board by Chemistry design werks. Amazing concept just a bit bulky to lug around and the flight cases are rather pricey. Duo 24 in a 28x14 flight case was the answer!! Was able to squeeze a few pedals on the side as well and there's room behind the board for storage.
 
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Was never a fan of using Velcro on my pedals. First board is a holey board by Chemistry design werks. Amazing concept just a bit bulky to lug around and the flight cases are rather pricey. Duo 24 in a 28x14 flight case was the answer!! Was able to squeeze a few pedals on the side as well and there's room behind the board for storage.


Very nice!!! I am super optimistic with temple/ziptie combo.
 
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Still waiting for the delivery to finish up -
Brown Dog
Agent 00 Funk
Trans-Boost

But the silly long zip ties came in!!

View attachment 1057291

what I ended up doing was getting a bag of 7 inch black zip ties. I put two of the ties together. It makes for a much snuggier (sp) fit on two of the corners and really reduces potential wiggling.

Two things I want to note about the adhesive: 1) It doesn't play well in the heat in Arizona - not much of a surprise there I suppose. Once outdoor temps hit 90 and above, the adhesive can lose it's bonding to a pedal after a few minutes. 2) a weight issue. There seems to be a point at which the adhesive will not stay bonded if the device is too heavy. I have a Cioks Big John Link and Schizo Link (again sp). One of them kept falling off, hence the use of the 7 inch cable ties.

I'm in the process of re-jiggering my board. I'll try to get some pics of the work in process over the weekend.
 
View attachment 841938 Well done and congrats! I had never heard of them either until fairly recently. Very pleased with their products - love the design, makes for a clean layout. Also very light and sturdy.

Above is my board all done - I just got a cool little Peican box to hold my picks and wrenchs which will fill the space in the upper right corner. Mono makes a nice bag that will fit should I ever need to take it somewhere.

Late to the game on this thread, but I just wanted to say that you have such a killer board. I'm slowly but surely working towards building a predominantley Dunwich board.

If and when I get some extra dough, I may upgrade my board to a TAD.
 
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View attachment 841938 Well done and congrats! I had never heard of them either until fairly recently. Very pleased with their products - love the design, makes for a clean layout. Also very light and sturdy.

Above is my board all done - I just got a cool little Peican box to hold my picks and wrenchs which will fill the space in the upper right corner. Mono makes a nice bag that will fit should I ever need to take it somewhere.
I know I'm late to this thread, but could you tell me about those connectors you used on your patch cables, or the cables themselves if you bought them pre-assembled? I love the size and finish on them.
 
I know I'm late to this thread, but could you tell me about those connectors you used on your patch cables, or the cables themselves if you bought them pre-assembled? I love the size and finish on them.

Certainly - they are Plant Waves cable station. I've had good luck with them - very easy to assemble. The kit below gives you plenty of cable and you can get additional ends. Had another kind before that which were horrid.

D'Addario DIY Solderless Custom Cable Kit, 40 feet, 10 plugs Amazon.com: D'Addario DIY Solderless Custom Cable Kit, 40 feet, 10 plugs: Musical Instruments
 
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Still digging my Temple Audio boards, but one major gripe: The module screws are so frustrating. If you are one iota of an atom off, they both won't properly drive in. Anybody have any recommendations on these things? I'm about ready to try J-B Welding the modules in.

Once installed properly, I never remove them, but I concur with the frustration and danger of cross-threading and wrecking the mounting hole.

Good news though: Temple has been known to ship customers free replacement side panels should things end badly ;)
 
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Once installed properly, I never remove them, but I concur with the frustration and danger of cross-threading and wrecking the mounting hole.

I don't either, but the power outlet module eventually pulled free from power cables being pulled and pushed into it for gigs and rehearsals. Then I was rearranging my board the other day and pulled the patch cable from the cable module and it ended up pulling the module from the bay.

If Temple can 1). make the modules more secure/find a less frustrating way to screw them in and 2). come up with a system where you can easily mount a power supply underneath without having to worry about the top pedals' plate screws, they will have an insanely awesome product.

Either way, I still dig their boards and they've been the best boards I've ever used for my needs.
 
I know I'm a little late to the game here, but I just ordered my Duo 17 (so pumped!) and I'm trying to decide on a power supply. I really want a cs12, I need the output space and my wireless receiver takes 12v so it's perfect especially for the price. I'm a little worried about the size though, anyone have a cs12 or something similar who can she'd some light here? Thanks!
 
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I know I'm a little late to the game here, but I just ordered my Duo 17 (so pumped!) and I'm trying to decide on a power supply. I really want a cs12, I need the output space and my wireless receiver takes 12v so it's perfect especially for the price. I'm a little worried about the size though, anyone have a cs12 or something similar who can she'd some light here? Thanks!

I use the CS7 with my Duo 17.

The CS12 is the same height and depth, only with a wider width, and should fit just as well.

See the beginning of this thread for my tips on mounting it.
 
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I emailed Temple about the mA draw on the LED strips and this was their response:

There's not exactly a straightforward answer to that question but essentially the minimum you’d want to feed them is 9V 100 mA…. but you can technically feed them up to 24V. They will only draw as much current as they need so there it no limit to the current you can supply the LED’s. In a nutshell; 9v 100mA will work, but something like 18V 250mA (or greater) will give you nearly double the brightness.
 
Hey all. Just jumped on the Temple bandwagon myself. I've got my stuff mounted on a Trio 28. I do love this board, except for one thing, I'm using a PP2+ and I, basically, had to shove it between the bracket and the board. The bracket is bowed out, but it sits flush on the floor, so I'm not super worried about it. I'll find a solution at some point. I really do like this board! I'm ordering the Trio 28 soft case. Right now I'm just using a Pedaltrain PT-Pro soft case, it fits well enough...

Here's my Trio 28...

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Here's a crappy pic of the power supply issue...

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I'm new to pedalboards: Why do people like these over hook & loop setups like Pedal Train? The PT way seems pretty easy to layout; also the angled ones look like they're a little higher up and could better fit power bricks underneath.

Does the velcro eventually wear out and need replacement?
 
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