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Double Bass NS Design NXT Megathread

Thanks Mark that helps me wrap my head around the mod. I can't find a single account of a failed NS NXT tuner/machinehead via Googling. Is there anyone who has actually had one fail and if so, what happened to the tuner?

I've had dozens of customers directly contact me, which is why I sought out a quality replacement. It's also why I spec'd my exclusive "NXT Traditional" model to include the Schaller tuners they put on the CR basses. It was a problem particularly with the WAV4 basses, which were entirely built in China under contract -- those tuners, I believe, may have been worse. I do think (though I don't KNOW, and no one has affirmed) that the ones on the NXT are a better quality, but basically the tuner's internal worm screw fails, I believe -- making the tuner essentially worthless, spinning and spinning with no gear movement.
 
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Thanks Mark. I will certainly post on TalkBass if any tuners fail on my NXT. As far as I'm concerned, to each there own! If you want to swap out, that's cool. I guess for me since there isn't a problem I figured other NXT users were having the same experience.
 
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Thanks Mark. I will certainly post on TalkBass if any tuners fail on my NXT. As far as I'm concerned, to each there own! If you want to swap out, that's cool. I guess for me since there isn't a problem I figured other NXT users were having the same experience.

Hey, I'm just GLAD it hasn't been a problem for you! :-)
 
I've had dozens of customers directly contact me, which is why I sought out a quality replacement. It's also why I spec'd my exclusive "NXT Traditional" model to include the Schaller tuners they put on the CR basses. It was a problem particularly with the WAV4 basses, which were entirely built in China under contract -- those tuners, I believe, may have been worse. I do think (though I don't KNOW, and no one has affirmed) that the ones on the NXT are a better quality, but basically the tuner's internal worm screw fails, I believe -- making the tuner essentially worthless, spinning and spinning with no gear movement.
My first EUB was a wav4 and those tuners did seem to be worse than the NXT tuners in terms of holding tune. Never had one completely fail. The hipshots give me the confidence I don't have to constantly retune on a gig. It's a practical mod more than anything else.
 
My NS Design NXT 5 arrived today, in amber burst. I have zero experience with upright basses so this is all pretty new to me. I think I managed to dial in a tone that gets fairly close to an upright bass for now (treble rolled off, mids cut and bass slightly boosted on the amp, arco mode). I also realized that a significant part of the upright tone is from the playing technique, if I play it like an oversized bass guitar it almost sounds like a fretless BG, only by using more "meat" on the fingers I get that "thump".
Anyway, my real question is actually in regards to the strings. I thought that it comes with the contemporary daddario strings, which I thought were "roundwounds" of some sort, what is on my bass I can only describe as "flatwound" strings (to use BG terms). They look like oversized daddario chromes to me. What's the real difference between these and the arco/classical strings from daddario? Are the classicals just thicker/have more tension or do they use different materials/are made differently? Are upright strings basically just flatwounds (sometimes with a gut/synthetic core, I already know that much), or are there other differences?
 
What's the real difference between these and the arco/classical strings from daddario? Are the classicals just thicker/have more tension or do they use different materials/are made differently? Are upright strings basically just flatwounds...
Last question first, Yes - roundwounds not [very] compatible with arco...
The big practical difference between the Contemporaries that come standard and the Traditionals is size; Traditionals are a lot thicker. Thicker enough that you won't be getting a low 'B' through the hole in the body unmodified. I've got a thread on that here somewhere, I'll try to find it tonight... And thus the tension is higher, which is a big part of the discussion on the last couple of pages on why the tuners should be upgraded to HipShots when contemplating using Traditionals on a 5-string tuned B->G.

My NXT-5 is black; welcome to the family.
 
Last question first, Yes - roundwounds not [very] compatible with arco...
The big practical difference between the Contemporaries that come standard and the Traditionals is size; Traditionals are a lot thicker. Thicker enough that you won't be getting a low 'B' through the hole in the body unmodified. I've got a thread on that here somewhere, I'll try to find it tonight... And thus the tension is higher, which is a big part of the discussion on the last couple of pages on why the tuners should be upgraded to HipShots when contemplating using Traditionals on a 5-string tuned B->G.

My NXT-5 is black; welcome to the family.

Thanks for the quick answer, I suppose I have a lot of reading to do when it comes to upright strings, judging by the prices I don't really want to make a stupid mistake with them. I'll probably stick with these for a while, but maybe once I'm more used I'll be back here and see whether I can get more "upright" out of this EUB with other strings.
 
...see whether I can get more "upright" out of this EUB with other strings.
Since an EUB is not pumping air there's not as much string damping. What I and a lot of EUB players do is put 'some' light open-cell foam at the bridge to artificially dampen the sustain.
The foam needs to touch the strings but must not be so tight as to affect pressure on the bridge. The rest is personal preference. Some players use something like felt (a la some early EBG's trying to emulate upright tone).
As you've seen, attack is in the fingers, but decay is in the damping. Between a little bit of foam and Traditionals (yes, they were expensive - try both Golihur and BassStringsOnline - I think they'll both ship overseas...) I'm quite happy with my NXT-5 tone. I just wish I had more time to play with it ...
 
DB strings are SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive than EB strings. When I got my NXT 4 string, the first thing I did was purchase the Traditional set of strings from Golihur Music. I can't speak to the size of the B string, but the 4 string set fit perfectly.

The tone difference was huge, and much closer to the upright sound I was looking for.

I also use open cell foam that is 1" thick by 1.5 inches wide, that I place against the bridge. If I want less sustain, I can slide it towards the neck until I'm happy with the sound.

I still much prefer a true double bass, but the convenience of the NXT when switching during gigs between it and EB, is undeniable.
 
Anyway, my real question is actually in regards to the strings. I thought that it comes with the contemporary daddario strings, which I thought were "roundwounds" of some sort, what is on my bass I can only describe as "flatwound" strings (to use BG terms). They look like oversized daddario chromes to me. What's the real difference between these and the arco/classical strings from daddario?

If you bought it new, it should have come with the Contemporary set. They're not roundwounds, they actually do still have a relatively flatwound profile.
ArtechnikA is mostly right, they're thinner and have less tension. They also have less material inside the strings to "dampen" the response. This makes them brighter, with more sustain, and a harsher bowed sound. The Traditional set is a set of D'Addario Helicore Orchestra Upright Bass strings that have been shortened to fit the much shorter afterlength of the NS Design basses. They are darker, thicker, with a bit more tension, and have a lovely bowed sound (and also, IMHO, a better pizz sound if you want a more "real" upright tone.
 
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Thanks for the help so far, I hope this is the right place to ask these, prepare for a confused newbie:
Can someone point me in the right direction when it comes to setup? I know, it's all preference at the end of the day, but I have the feeling that my NXT came with a pretty low action for an upright. A quick measurement shows something like 3-4mm from the very end of the fingerboard to the G-string. What would be a good place to start? What would a typical jazz/pizzicato setup look like in terms of measurements, what would be an orchestral setup (roughly)?
Should I mess with the trussrod on the NXT? It has more neck relief than I'm used to on my BGs, but it's also a significantly larger neck so I'm not sure. Or should I just adjust it when I'm switching to the traditional set?
And lastly the tuners, judging by what I've read here it seems like people just swapped them because the WAV models had serious issues and because some upright strings were too thick to fit these, but with the traditionals only having a bit more tension on them I suppose I'll be fine? It stays in tune right now.
 
NS Design sets up the WAV4 and NXT basses with VERY low action. Too low, in my humble opinion. (It's probably to bolster the confidence of the electric bassists who try the bass when it's on display at your local guitar superstore.) To get that "big" URB sound, the strings need enough clearance to be plucked with vigor - and enough room to "bloom" without buzzing against the fingerboard. I raised the action a little on my WAV4, and that alone improved its sound quite a bit, because I could PLAY it more like a real URB. No rules, though - just adjust to taste. You shouldn't need to adjust the truss rod, but note that you want a little relief, which manifests as a subtle "scoop" between the 3rd and 6th positions or so.

The tuners should be fine with the Traditionals on there; but they can be a little "vague" in their tuning accuracy/holding power over time. You don't need to rush out and buy new tuners right away, but it is a worthwhile upgrade over time, as better ones improve reliability and stability, giving you more confidence in the instrument.

That's my personal take - obviously, strings and tone are very subjective.
 
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NS Design sets up the WAV4 and NXT basses with VERY low action. Too low, in my humble opinion. (It's probably to bolster the confidence of the electric bassists who try the bass when it's on display at your local guitar superstore.) To get that "big" URB sound, the strings need enough clearance to be plucked with vigor - and enough room to "bloom" without buzzing against the fingerboard. I raised the action a little on my WAV4, and that alone improved its sound quite a bit, because I could PLAY it more like a real URB. No rules, though - just adjust to taste. You shouldn't need to adjust the truss rod, but note that you want a little relief, which manifests as a subtle "scoop" between the 3rd and 6th positions or so.

The tuners should be fine with the Traditionals on there; but they can be a little "vague" in their tuning accuracy/holding power over time. You don't need to rush out and buy new tuners right away, but it is a worthwhile upgrade over time, as better ones improve reliability and stability, giving you more confidence in the instrument.

That's my personal take - obviously, strings and tone are very subjective.

Thanks again for the help, after some more searching on the forum I found some values that I could use to start with. ~5mm for the G string and ~8mm on the bass side. I roughly dialed that in (super easy on the bridge by the way, a huge plus for adjustability on this bass) and I think I already like this. Before I wasn't able to pluck on the fingerboard because the action was just too low, that works without any problems now. The markers also still work for the rough positioning. Neck relief seems to be roughly 1mm around the middle of the fingerboard (pressing down on the first marker and at the end of the fingerboard, using the string to see the relief). Maybe some small adjustments to straighten that a bit if I swap to the higher tension strings.
True, I'll just leave them on and swap them if they ever become an issue.

Oh, and thanks to
DB strings are SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive than EB strings. When I got my NXT 4 string, the first thing I did was purchase the Traditional set of strings from Golihur Music. I can't speak to the size of the B string, but the 4 string set fit perfectly.

The tone difference was huge, and much closer to the upright sound I was looking for.

I also use open cell foam that is 1" thick by 1.5 inches wide, that I place against the bridge. If I want less sustain, I can slide it towards the neck until I'm happy with the sound.

I still much prefer a true double bass, but the convenience of the NXT when switching during gigs between it and EB, is undeniable.

you as well, the foam also works wonders to alter the sound.
 
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I have somewhat of a challenge with my NXT5 lately. I have been using the GHS Crossover 5-string set for about half a year and I am very pleased with it. Until my G-string snapped during normal tuning. Fortunately, it happened during rehearsals.

The only thing I could do was order a 4-string set and use the G-string of it. Ordered the 4-string set online and just received it. To better be safe than sorry I dusted both the bridge and the nut with some graphite powder. However, when I reached F# and wanted to tune up to G, the second string snapped as well :( In exactly the same place as the first one, just beneath the tuner:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I am by no means a veteran upright bass player but I do know how to string and tune my instruments. Can anyone give me a tip on what went wrong here? The NXT has the standard tuners. I guess the only things I can do is either shell out another $60 on another 4-string set or replace the Crossovers with the factory Contemporary strings. But if possible I don't want to risk my NXT eating more G-strings.

Any help and/or advice is greatly appreciated at this point :thumbsup:
 
A string designed for a NXT should not break the first time you put it on a NXT, so it makes sense to get a FOC replacement.

The point where it broke, is that at the tuner side of the nut (so just above the nut)? Maybe there is something that bends the string at a relatively sharp angle, and then when you tune-up you bend it back again. String cores don't like that. In that case some rounding off with a small file could prevent future strings to break.

Maybe the notch in the nut is a little smaller than the diameter of the string. Then the notch needs to be opened-up a bit, as it may still be grabbing the string. (I hear you on the graphite, a soft 3B pencil might be easier.)
 
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I have somewhat of a challenge with my NXT5 lately. I have been using the GHS Crossover 5-string set for about half a year and I am very pleased with it. Until my G-string snapped during normal tuning. Fortunately, it happened during rehearsals.

The only thing I could do was order a 4-string set and use the G-string of it. Ordered the 4-string set online and just received it. To better be safe than sorry I dusted both the bridge and the nut with some graphite powder. However, when I reached F# and wanted to tune up to G, the second string snapped as well :( In exactly the same place as the first one, just beneath the tuner:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I am by no means a veteran upright bass player but I do know how to string and tune my instruments. Can anyone give me a tip on what went wrong here? The NXT has the standard tuners. I guess the only things I can do is either shell out another $60 on another 4-string set or replace the Crossovers with the factory Contemporary strings. But if possible I don't want to risk my NXT eating more G-strings.

Any help and/or advice is greatly appreciated at this point :thumbsup:

That's definitely frustrating, for sure! PM me your mailing address and I'll get you a couple extra strings to make sure we fix it.

One piece of advice that I've found from using/breaking a large number of these strings. Because they're on a round core, you need to stretch the string a little more while tuning. What I do is tune it up to F, then pull the string a bit. Not too much, but not lightly either? Then slowly tune it up to F#, repeat and then to G. I haven't had any issues when doing this, and we're looking to have something written on the packaging for this (much like how DR has their instructions for installing their strings on electric basses in every package).

I hope that helps.